Shift lock issue? Can start engine, can't get truck into gear

Hello all,

I have a 2000 tundra with 272k. I'm actually trying to get rid of it, as soon as I get it moving to show it. It was owned by a toyota service tech, who did all kinds of stupid things to it to keep it running. Specifically with the ignition lock. When I bought the truck, most of the ignition lock was gone. There was enough of the lock cylinder left that you could shove a screwdriver in to turn and start it. To make the truck still work, i think he had disabled the shift lock somehow- you could move the car into gear when the key cylinder was in park or acc, and you could turn off the engine while the car was still in Drive. So i figured I should fix this before selling the truck, my mistake.

I found a used lock cylinder and key. I was able to install the lock cylinder, and turn key to start, and turn the engine on. However, I cannot remove the key from the lock cyinder when it is in the 'lock' position. When the engine is on, I cannot move the shifter into gear, not reverse or drive. Before I installed the lock cylinder, the key pulled out of it just fine. I don't see any shift lock override switch like I do on some cars.

In doing my research, it seems like the shift lock must be engaged somehow, keeping me from removing the key, or shifting into gear. Anyone have any idea if I might be on the right track? I really don't want to spend money to have it towed to have someone take a look at it if I'm just going to sell it anyway. Alternately, if you live in Western Washington or Portland area and you're interested in a truck that does't look pretty but runs good, if you can move it from my driveway, you can have it for incredibly cheap, my wife wants it gone now that we have our Cruiser.

Looking around at the nest of wires underneath the steering wheel, there's a weird resister that I don't think should be there (pic attached). Also, one of the fuses is missing from the fuse box. Could either of those be implicated? The horn doesn't work, which makes me think that the PO disconnected some things, maybe because the airbag also wasn't working and would have thrown a code?

 

Are you pressing the brake before you try to s gift out of park?

Try to start the truck in neutral and see if you can shift to reverse or drive.

I believe that is a diode you are looking at. Not sure the purpose.

 

Hi, I am pressing the brake to try and shift out of park, no luck. The truck will not even shift out of park into neutral when its off to try and start it that way.

 

That HG4255 relay comes up as being used for a kill switch !
Couple questions....
1) What does the fuse door say that missing fuse is used for
2) Is that a plug you are holding with a diode across red(anode)/white(cathode)

 

That's a diode and the anode (+) is going to red wire. Cathodes are negative.

 

Correct, typo on my part and edited for correction

 

Hey BubbaW,

1) Actually, looking at a fuse diagram, that fuse is not supposed to have anything in it, empty from the factory.
2)that thing I'm holding is the hg4255 relay that has the diode across the red and white.

 

Ok, I thought it might be the fuse you mentioned in first post.

 

After looking at the fsm it looks like a mechanical problem. Not electrical.

 

I believe you are correct. I wanted to remove the ignition cylinder completely when doing my push to start but it’s mechanically tied into the shift lock with a cable. There is no key sense or any other funny electrical business with our key cylinders.

 

you can fix that with a zip tie, holding it in the released position permanently. Just means you can move the shift lever out of park at any time.

 

Do you here the click from the solenoid when depressing the brake pedal? Undo the shift cable underneath and see if you can now put in gear. Probable out of adjustment.............the 2 bolts in the picture. It happens.

 

So all this great info is very much appreciated, and I think I understand what might be going on, thanks to y'all.

I think the person who sold me the truck had put a zip tie or something on the shift lock/cable @foxtrapper mentions, to make the truck start with the ruined shell of a lock cylinder it came with. I must have messed that up when I tried to replace the lock cylinder with a not busted one. I think just need to zip tie the right thing, and it will be back to the way it was (so the shift lever can move out of park anytime).

Looking at the FSM images @TX-TRD1stGEN was kind enough to upload, I think what @foxtrapper was referring to zip tie-ing was the parking lock cable #2, is that right? And that is just below the ignition lock cylinder?

 

Where are you getting these nice instructions? I remember someone putting up a link to a big g high tech spy outfit for these, but I didn’t want them to know where I was.

 

I downloaded the fsm from a link on this site. I'll try to find it again.

Try this @Professional Hand Model

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8Cqavp2HxeVeUd3VjRvZTRjRXM/view?usp=docslist_api

 

I found out a while back that TTORA used to carry many Toyota FSM but got shut down by Toyota. I used the internet wayback and found the last time they still had them which includes that 2000-2003 you mentioned.

http://web.archive.org/web/20101126191408/http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

 

Hey everyone! So I figured it out, it was parking lock cable #2, I just had to adjust where it contacted the ignition lock cylinder, and I can shift out of Park and drive now! Thanks to everyone here, wife was amused that "the internet fixed the truck". It's getting sold cheap, anyone interested in a real beater?

 

Looked at your link yesterday. Its 2,800 pages without an index. How do you find specifics without thumbing all the pages? I tried the gman tracking search bar, but glitchy. Went to PDF and loaded, but no index. Scrolling for days to get to page 1200 only to be redirected back to page 1 (multiple times).

 

Download it and open it as a pdf with adobe. Then use Ctrl+f.

Need me to top off your Metamucil while I’m at it there old timer?

 

I seem to remember Ctrl+f from like 15 years ago before going over to iPad.