What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

About half of mine were cracked longitudinally. They still work. I just replaced all of them because one went bad and was replaced by a service shop. Didn’t see what it looked like, but it went bad probably due to worn out spark plugs.

Your bad plug is due to ill fitment probably. The current struggled to make the connection causing more heat than normal. The bolt probably was lost by prior plug installer?

Maybe you should buy an extra 2 or 3 working used coils just in case one goes bad during your Shaman Adventures? I have some for sale in the section here.

 

I may experiment doing this when I tackle the side doink clear coat for the final time. I may just use this leftover wheel clear coat as it has a really nice finish. There is half a can left.

 

Did my first oil change since installing the Fumoto valve. I knew these things were slow but didn't expect this. It took nearly 90 minutes for the oil to finish draining. I had time to walk the dogs, eat lunch and do laundry. Not sure if I can recommend the Fumoto unless you've got a book to read while you wait.

 

Did you use the little hose thingy attachment like the Turd Gen guys?

I think these are attractive to them due to eliminating oil shooting up on the wheel or something.

Thanks for the heads up on these. They look quality built. The design is a great idea, but limited to the factory drain plug divided by 3?

Wish the car manufacturers would make these standard with a bigger port. I suppose one could tap a larger hole in the pan and put a bigger valve in but lots of work/risk.

 

They are slow but I'll trade that for no mess. I open mine then mow the grass.

 

I’ve never had much problem with the plug removal making a mess, but the oil filter removal sure makes one. I don’t remove my skid plate as its securely screwed in place. I usually throw a larger towel or tee shirt under the filter to catch stuff.

You drop your skid plate?

 

Ha! Nice "plug" for your coils. May take you up on that. I also dig "Shaman Adventures".

I know you're not asking me, but to add a data point: I have now done two oil changes on my Tundra myself (before that I had "freebies" from the dealership where I bought it). First time I did not drop the skid plate, and it was all still a pain in the ass and made a big mess. Part of that might have been because the dealership guys tightened it too tight, though, and I had a hell of a time removing it.

Second oil change I dropped the skid plate and was able to catch all the oil filter oil in my catch pan. No mess. (Which is good because I was borrowing a friend's nice clean driveway.)(I did leave clumps of various Utah dirt roads all over the driveway though.)

Overall I think the extra effort to remove the skid plate was worth it...maybe. Plus gives me a chance to inspect stuff.

Side note: at least our plug is on the bottom. My last car (Ford) it was on the side of the oil pan, so when you remove the plug the oil would shoot out horizontally. You had to guesstimate where to put the catch pan - and move it as the pressure dropped and the stream petered out.

 

Nope because it wasn't there when I bought the truck.

 

No, sorry. Didn't mean to scare you. I just meant the top part of that coil looks like it was covered in mud or...? I just assumed you'd splashed it in something. If you say most of that wiped off I'm sure it's fine. Carry on!

 

I self tapped my skid on a few years back with about 12 screws and unless there is major work to be done it will remain as is.

As far as the filter, I loosely hand tightened it and it would seep slightly so I really have to hand snug it down. Seems as if the filter has no middle area. Either a light hand install seep or full hand snug that tightens even more over the use of engine. I use large channel locks to loosen the Toy filters off. They work well. Also, a little step stool to stand on helps to get better leverage if you don’t want to strain hanging over the front.

 

Yeah, the lack of cleanup was nice. I used @Darkness trick of wrapping a grocery bag around the filter to minimize mess. Now that I know the Fumoto is slow I'll schedule it before my next vacation. By the time I return from visiting PHM in St Barts it should almost be done draining....

 

Ah.

I tried to follow the box directions: snug, then 3/4 turn. I think I got close to 3/4...I need to go to the gym though.

Hey, you sayin' I'm short? ...ok, I am short. I had to use a step stool to get down in there that first time. In my defense, my truck is lifted...1.5 inches, but still!

Ooooh, nice. Might try that next time!

 

??? Did you get the engine up to temp or do this in a garage that was 3degrees cold? Mine drains just fine. Only takes about 8-10 minutes then it drips like every 20 seconds which is drained enough. I love the valve and have had it on all my past cars


Also, AGAIN, I gave my wife the truck keys as I let her take it today so I could replace a valve cover and gasket on the BMW X3...so much fun, not. But I did have a buddy come over to hang and we drank some 2013 Deschutes Abyss....sooooo good!

 

No, engine cold. Apparently I'm not the only one that has a slow one though. Should I try it with the engine warm next time?

 

Interested in this. How will you do that?

 

I would need to take both ends off right? Blow from inside and vacuum from outside?

 

Why do you label the plugs? Would they work in any of the cylinders?

 

Well the oil will flow much better at least warm or up to operating temp. OR a warm summer day

 

i always do the oil with the engine warm. makes it much faster coming out. I pull the plug, grab a bite to eat, put it back in and finish my oil. thats how all my oil changes go these days

 

I’ll one up you, here’s the night we did a 2011-2017 plus the Rye, Scotch, Brandy and Tequila barrel variants. Me and two friends had been collecting them for a while and we were kinda looking for a reason to break into them. One of those friends was about to have his first kid so we figured, eh, why the hell not. I don’t remember much of that night, or the next day but I think I crapped motor oil for a week.

 

I'm telling you man, suck that oil from the top and stop fiddling with valves. My oil vac isn't fast, but it will suck all the hot oil from my truck in probably 10-15 minutes. By that time hopefully you can get your hand on the oil filter and carefully not spill hot oil on your arm.

 

I have a mityvac I’ll use to do oil sometimes. Works good.

 

If that before/after isn't satisfying, I don't know what is!
Two steps closer to that pristine engine bay goal after this weekend's completion of my valve cover restorations and gaskets. Though I made mistakes, learning a lot and finishing the job well was rewarding in the end.

Driver's side before:

Driver's side after:

Passenger side before:

Passenger side after:

Labeled the coils so I didn't put them back wrong:

Old valve cover gaskets were brittle but otherwise seemed OK besides leaking like crazy. I suppose that's a contradiction. I'm concerned with the amount of carbon buildup (?) and oil sludge I scrubbed out of the driver's side and spent quite some time removing grime this weekend. I guess that comes with the territory of 265K miles, I just hope the whole inside of the engine isn't like this (also that towel soaked up a whole can of brake cleaner and I got a severe headache from the fumes):

Squeaky clean new OEM gasket slid right into the clean groove. I wiped all 10 parts with 303 Aerospace Protectant to lengthen longevity:

Prepped for paint.

I chose

$13 Dupli-Color DE1615 Engine Enamel Spray Paint with Ceramic - Aluminum - 12 oz Aerosol Can

Dupli-Color Ceramic Engine Paint as well as their clear coat, and was extremely satisfied:

The biggest plunder I made was not ordering enough spark plug tube seal gaskets, I just wasn't thinking when the pack came with 6...for my V8. And those old ones put up a huge fight coming out, I was forced to disintegrat them into unusableness to remove. Then, sitting there, with half the top of my engine disassembled without a way to put it back together, and places I need to drive to the next day, I realize the Toyota parts bag is empty and I have two more holes. AutoMoan's one-day parts delivery was a life saver, but $25 for 8 cheap Fel-Pro gaskets that break easily isn't my favorite. I can't imagine using their whole kit:

An overnight soak in degreaser barely budged the grime hugging my valve cover bolts. For the sake of perfectionism I think I'm going to replace them with new ones, which will be a nice touch. They are somewhat hard to find:

Last photo I promise, is this a coil going bad? Two of mine didn't look so healthy and are likely the originals. Could be good preventative maintenance to replace:

Doing engine maintenance like this only feels rewarding if it looks good, because the truck won't usually run any noticeably better.

 

Purty! What did you use for the prep on the outside?

 

Here is how I ran my install on 2005 SR5 DC. The camera video cable had rca ends and a little red pigtail on each end. I plugged the rca into the R cam in on the back of the Kenwood headunit. That takes care of video in. The pigtail on the same end I tied into the stereo 12v switched red wire. This sends power down the video cable to the camera and outputs at the other small pigtail of the video cable which then attaches to the camera power harness that has the barrel plug. I left the ground off. This makes the camera powered up any time the headunit is on. No worries since the camera doesn't have LEDs that will be lit constantly.

On the headunit, I ran the purple reverse trigger wire to the drivers foot rest area to the kick panel. There at the bottom is a long white connector and a gray connector underneath with the red/black/silver spots reverse wire. I tied the headunits reverse trigger wire into that wire once I tested that it received 12v when the truck is in reverse.

With the camera powered by the headunit's 12v switched wire, I can see the camera video using the CAM button on the headunits faceplate. If I had a front cam, I can switch between them after pressing the CAM button.

With the reverse trigger wire connected, it auto switches the headunit to the camera video when I put the truck in reverse.

Notes: My camera is not great quality. It works but will likely be replaced....It doesn't output the wide FOV video it advertises. It's small enough that it would fit in the handle as I initially planned but due to the angle of the video it produces, I would have to point it basically straight down to see my hitch. I mouted it along the top of the license plate and even then it doesn't show the hitch which is lower and extends beyond the bumper. Like I said, it works.....but will likely be replaced by different unit.

 

Don’t know if you found it yet, but this is what I used. I just tinned the wire & jammed it in the connector and taped it up.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cm1kA4OEQYQ

 

Yeah, these are the old plugs I pulled out - I numbered them just to keep track of which cylinder they came out of in case it turned out I needed to do some troubleshooting.

 

HOLY CRAP thats a rats nest of wires.

 

did you get capa certified or just normal inventory? They dont have capa in the left one so Im just trying to figure what the difference is.