What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Oh I bet! When I did our 4runner, I think I just pulled the actual tube off the evaporator drain nipple(I was using that foaming cleaner and it didn’t drain easily due to the foaming action, so the drain was over filling and making a mess inside) and stuck a vacuum to that to speed up the draining process.
I’m hoping to do an AC refresh before summer hits the SW(sooo next week basically)
Drop the charge, evacuate the system, and recharge PER WEIGHT, clean the blower wheel and hopefully clean out the evap real well like you did. It works ok now, but I’m pretty sure I can hear the low pressure shut off switch opening way to often, leading me to believe its low on freezone or a dirty/blocked evaporator

 

I'm no help with reverse signal in the dash; I just tied into the reverse wire close to the lamp itself. I installed my camera in the tailgate handle so I was back there already...
Good luck

 

I tied into the power of the trailer wiring harness because I want to be able to use the camera when not in reverse, but I need a reverse signal into the head unit from another source, so it will auto switch to the reverse camera view when I shift into reverse...

 

Right; and tying into the reverse wire will give you that. I removed the taillight assembly and tied in right there.
I think someone provided a wire closer to the head unit; I'll see if I can find it for you. But the wire coming off the reverse lamp works for what you need.

 

Thats a good idea on removing the drain nipple. I’ll try that next time soon as I want to double back on the job again to get a few of the areas I missed around the coil perimeter last time.

I could use a good AC service on mine. I’ve heard its good to evacuate the system completely and then reinstall all new freon/oil which helps the system run more efficiently. Will this mess up the compressor mojo after 20 years of trouble free excellence?

 

Not exactly "today", but last week replaced the spark plugs. Could not find any notation in the previous owner's otherwise extensive records about them having been changed, and since I've had the truck about 22K miles, figured I'd take a look. Findings:

AFAIK the old plugs I removed looked fairly clean* but worn. The gaps ranged from .048 to .053.





Replaced with

$4 Denso K20R-U Denso 3122 Spark Plug

Denso K20R-U gapped to .031. Side note: I checked the gaps on these out of the box, and they ranged from .029 to .031.

My coils looked good*, as far as I know and based on seeing some not-good ones on here.

*Apparently the plugs had been changed since leaving the factory: Seven of the eight coil bolts were army green and had a captive (?) washer. One bolt was zinc coated, no separate washer, and was about 1/4in longer than what I assume are the stock bolts. WTF.

This resulted in that coil being slightly loose, and this coil and plug were dirtier than the other seven. (Fourth plug from the left in the above image.) I replaced the odd bolt with a shorter one... which has a smaller hex head. Now seven of them use a 10mm socket and one an 8mm socket, which I apparently don't have and had to use a crescent wrench. :-\ Need to find an OEM one some day.





Truck seems to run better, but could be observational bias. I'll try to remember to update this once I've gone through a full tank of gas to see if there was any noticeable improvement there.

NOTE: the numbers on the plugs are not the correct cylinder numbers. I numbered them as I took them off, starting with the front-of-truck right-side cylinder and going straight back. In other words what I labeled 1-2-3-4 I think should be cylinders 1-3-5-7. Sorry about any confusion - didn't think to number them correctly until it was all done - but I doubt anyone is finding this post as any kind of useful reference anyhow.

 

Yea, gotcha, but I already ran the camera cable and was hoping to avoid running another one and just tying it into the dash signal somewhere...I wish I had run that wire with the video cable now...lol...and of course, now it's raining....grrr..

 

Have you removed your glove box and looked behind it? That is where I tied mine in

 

I think you sent me the video of the Sequoia but not confirmed on the Tundra - but I'm still looking...

 

I will look there...thanks!

 

Yea, I looked for that , but couldn't find it...I'll go look again and at the glove box...thanks.

 

Your plugs look not as oily as mine for comparison.

These were some Iridiums with 30k on them running with 155k mile original coils. These were removed and new copper cores were installed with all new coils.

 

I have heat again! And my engine isn't overheating anymore.
A few weeks ago I commented on here with a coolant leak and y'all (sorry my Southern is coming out) were super helpful. My radiator was bubbling out coolant, I must have accidentally gouged the delicate coil fins when I did my timing belt a year ago without removing it. Thankfully someone even had a tutorial on this site on how to change everything. This weekend I went with the Denso from

$165 Denso 221-0517 Radiator

Amazon:

Look at that difference between old and new!


Installation was a breeze despite some bad reviews on the Denso bolts stripping. I used red Loctite on them just as a precaution. Did some deep cleaning while I was in there, too. Now the fan shroud looks new. Obviously bled and filled the system with a gallon of undiluted red OEM Toyota antifreeze and a gallon of distilled water. While I was able to restore some of the dirt-caked hoses (sorry, no before and after pics) with degreaser and 303, an aerospace

$24 303 Products Aerospace Protectant Spray, UV Protection, Repels Dust, Dirt, & Staining, Matte Finish, Restores Like-New Appearance, Outdoor Cleaning Supplies 32 Fl. Oz.

protectant,

I did find brown gunk in the main upper radiator hose, so simply ordered a

$31 Gates 23018 Premium Molded Coolant Hose

new one.

That won't be fun to change with coolant dripping everywhere, please learn from my mistakes and replace stuff while it's easy if you have a suspicion. Also I hate how weird this post looks with the hyperlinks.

 

pull thew glove box, pull the top trim screws, and you'll see the blue connector toward the passenger side up high.

(double cab may be different. mines a reg cab.)

 

She might be getting ready to go bye-bye.

 

I can take mine apart and take a picture of you can't figure it out.

 

Bumper & Lights installed. Damn winch didn't fit even with the relocation kit. Not sure what I can do here as it looks like the Zeon 10 may also be too big even with the relocation kit. About an 1/8" tall.

 

I wondered about that, since it didn't seem like things would move enough for mechanical abrasion, but I put it down to the thing being loose, which is isn't any more.

I don't really know what "coils" do, other than I assume deliver juice to the plug for the spark. Is something in the functioning of the coil causing that crack? Or was it just rubbing enough on the inside of the tube? And if so is that a problem now since it shouldn't get worse because I fixed the looseness?

 

I assume your video cable from your camera doesn't have a pigtail attached?

 

I wish I had that ohc.
What do the buttons do?

 

My god, that ignition coil looks like it survived an apocalpse. You off-road hard!

 

The E/M button changes it from °F to °C
The Mode button either displays the temp and compass, the temp only, the compass only or blanks it all out
The buttons with dots are programmable garage door openers
Not sure what would go in the blanks between the lights
And the door opens up to hold sunglasses (small sunglasses...)

 

Wow looks a lot better! I wonder if you were able to use touch up paint and clear on the stuff you can’t get out and then do a super high grit wet sand of the area and polish.

 

Those blanks for for the sunroof controls.

 

Hard to see but Donnelly is stamped on the back. I can't make out the part number, sorry...

 

The one thing I wish I had...

 

Exactly

 

Erm, now I'm getting nervous. For what it's worth, that is the only coil that looked like that (refer to post about it being loose due to a too-long bolt) and almost all of it wiped right off - except for the scratches/cracks PHM noted. Most was just dust. I can't find them now that I look for them, but I've seen way worse on here.

Since I don't really know what all the factors are, what about off-roading would cause this? I don't think I "off-road hard", but maybe I'm more of a bad-ass than I thought!

 

Only on the end going to the head unit...on the camera end it is integrated into the power connector, so you can't use this setup for doing what I want to do on this camera (Nakita, same as @empty_lord)....but as it turns out, there is one directly behind the radio....see this thread... "If you've pulled the stock radio, there is a 2-wire plug on the stock radio wire harness that was not plugged into the radio. It's taped out of the way (only was used for Nav systems). This 2-wire plug has your reverse wire and vss wire if needed....."

It's the gray plug sticking up here....blk/red is reverse, green orange is VSS (vehicle speed sense).

I've tested it and it works...now to my next problem...

 

Great find!