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Blown fuse from led cabin lights

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Spolar, Sep 29, 2016.

  1. Feb 5, 2020 at 2:18 AM
    #31
    InsaneAuto86

    InsaneAuto86 New Member

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    Well I can tell you that there are settings either thru the instrument cluster or stereo head unit that you can control when lights turn on/off with doors open/close. My footwell lights do no operate with the dash switch, and only activate when a door is opened. I didnt realize this and am kinda disappointed. I'm gonna mess with it more today. GL
     
  2. Feb 5, 2020 at 2:55 AM
    #32
    SIMPLYTHETRUTH

    SIMPLYTHETRUTH THE ALBINO RHINO

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    S&B Cold Air Intake, Recon light bar, Rough Country light bar, Cali ditch lights, aFe throttle spacer,
    Make sure there non polarity bulbs.
     
  3. Feb 5, 2020 at 8:15 AM
    #33
    BradWils

    BradWils New Member

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    I just installed a Tesla style android screen and I’m experiencing the same issue. I’m told that Toyota Tech stream maybe be able to fix it but Im waiting to hear back on that. Super annoying using a iPhone light to find the keyhole. Is your head unit stock?
     
  4. Feb 5, 2020 at 5:19 PM
    #34
    adaird

    adaird New Member

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    Yes, my head unit is stock.
     
  5. Feb 5, 2020 at 5:22 PM
    #35
    BradWils

    BradWils New Member

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    I can turn my interior lights on with the 3 position switch by my knee. But when I turn to door it won’t come on. Could they both be fused? I’m lost.
     
  6. Feb 5, 2020 at 5:38 PM
    #36
    adaird

    adaird New Member

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    Same issue I'm having! I checked ALL fuses (under the hood fuse box and in-cabin fuse box) with a tester and all are good. I called my Toyota dealer to double-check that putting the LED bulbs in my map lights and dome was not an issue and they assured me that many people do it without any issues. The guy did suggest that maybe one of my bulbs was touching some metal around the reflectors of the dome lights which may be causing the issue of the lights not coming on when I opened the door, but I just spoke with the Service Dept manager - not one of the mechanics. I simply asked the guy if he had heard of people bringing their vehicles in because of switching out factor bulbs with LEDs and he said no.

    I tried to trace the wire that goes from the 3 position switch that runs the dome lights and didn't see any "in-line" fuses so assume the only fuse is in the fuse box in the driver's side footwell area. I think I'm going to take out all the LEDs and put back in old bulbs to see if I can get it to work again, this weekend. It's really aggravating.
     
  7. Feb 5, 2020 at 5:40 PM
    #37
    BradWils

    BradWils New Member

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    Keep me posted.
     
  8. Feb 6, 2020 at 5:36 AM
    #38
    BradWils

    BradWils New Member

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    I made sure mine weren’t touching when I installed the LED’s. I just can’t understand how they work ok when in the “on” position but not work in the “Door” setting. It’s driving me nuts.
     
  9. Feb 6, 2020 at 2:58 PM
    #39
    adaird

    adaird New Member

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    Well the very first one I attempted (front map bulb), I took the metal reflector out thinking I had to. When it was such a pain in the ass to get back in without bending it all up, I replaced all the rest of the bulbs by leaving the metal reflector in and used needle-nosed pliers to gently pull the old bulb out. I'm gonna look this weekend to see if I have some metal contact somewhere that may be causing the issue. Seems like contact with metal would cause a fuse to blow or the dome bulb itself to not work. Weird that they all work when switch is in "on" position, just won't light up when door is open and switch is in the "door" position. I scoured various boards and the Net about this and see that other guys have had the same issue when changing to LEDs, but have yet to find an answer that provides a solution.
     
  10. Feb 6, 2020 at 3:11 PM
    #40
    adaird

    adaird New Member

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    Well knowing you've already looked at that for the reason, I'm a bit concerned I won't have any contact on mine either and will be baffled even more. On my 2014, my dome fuse is under the hood and the description for what it protects is the following:

    Fuse 24 - "Interior lights, personal lights, vanity lights, ignition switch light, foot light, door courtesy lights, accessory meter"

    Seems like that fuse covers about all that I could think of that may be causing the issue. I'm wondering if the 3 position switch could have been fried just for the "door" setting. Seems like if it was toast, it wouldn't still be capable of turning the dome lights on when in the "on" position or turning them off when switched to that position? I just don't know enough about that switch to know how it works. That will likely be what I'll look at next if putting in the old bulbs does not make my lights turn on again when opening the door.
     
  11. Feb 10, 2020 at 6:03 PM
    #41
    adaird

    adaird New Member

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    I checked this weekend and none of mine were touching either. I actually took all the LEDs out and put the old ones back in and they all lit up when I put the switch to "on", but did not work when on the "door" setting. Did you ever figure out what was wrong with yours?
     
  12. Feb 10, 2020 at 6:33 PM
    #42
    BradWils

    BradWils New Member

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    I re installed my stock deck, went went into the setting and turned on the light setting for 30 seconds and re installed my android deck. All good now.
     
  13. Feb 10, 2020 at 8:06 PM
    #43
    adaird

    adaird New Member

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    When you had your stock deck in prior to installing your android deck (the first time), was the light setting on 30 seconds or something different? Was the solution for you changing the time for the light setting or do you think it was something different? I didn't change my deck, just my interior bulbs to LEDs.
     
  14. Feb 10, 2020 at 11:53 PM
    #44
    conviccted

    conviccted New Member

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    Exact same problem with my 2019 Tundra after installing LEDs....Subscribed to this tread
     
  15. Feb 11, 2020 at 4:04 AM
    #45
    adaird

    adaird New Member

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    What was your solution, or you haven't found one yet?
     
  16. Feb 11, 2020 at 4:26 AM
    #46
    BradWils

    BradWils New Member

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    The solution for me was changing the time setting to 30 and it came right on. I always had it set to that but my battery died and it must of sat long enough to reset my setting because when I went into the setting again they were all set to off.
     
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  17. Feb 12, 2020 at 2:51 PM
    #47
    ncorry

    ncorry New Member

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    Adaird, I've got two suggestions. First, check the 7.5 amp fuse under the hood (#24) and the 7.5 amp fuse to the left of driver's left foot (also #24). Second, if the LEDs you installed don't have a specific positive and negative pole indicated, try swapping them.

    Well, maybe three suggestions. Finally, pull the three way interior light switch from the dash and take a good look at it. It's a simple switch, but works by alternating the ground wire somehow. Not many peices. I accidentally had to rebuild mine. Wasn't hard to figure out.

    Two questions- have you changed the setting on the head unit? Do the interior lights work when you manually activate the lights at their individual switches?
     
  18. Feb 13, 2020 at 6:27 PM
    #48
    adaird

    adaird New Member

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    Ncorry, thanks for the response! I've actually tested every fuse (under the hood in that box as well as the box next in the driver's side footwell area) with a testing light. None blew at all, but what I did find is that someone had put a 25amp fuse in the #24 slot (Dome) where the 7.5amp should have gone. I've since replaced it and am wondering if that would have caused the 3 position switch to have fried before blowing the 25amp fuse? As of right now, the dome and map lights won't come no matter what door I open (when the switch is in the "door" position). But both map and dome lights do come on when I switch it to the "on" position. I did pull that 3 position switch out last weekend and looked at it (almost lost the spring in it), but I couldn't really tell if anything was wrong with it. What would I look for to know if it was fried? I see no obvious signs of overheated parts or black residue but when I used a tester light to see if the dome lights are getting any juice when I have the doors open and position the switch to the "door" position, there is no current running to them. I'm really feeling that it's got to be the switch (when in the "door" position) since the lights work fine when I put it to the "on" position. Do you think it could be malfunctioning just in one position?

    I checked at the stealership and they want $120 for the switch and will not allow me to return it if it does not fix the problem. He went so far as to tell me that they look at the gold prongs for any signs of scraped metal to refuse a return on electrical parts. I could buy a used one online for $60 but no returns on that as well. I was going to do some searching online to figure out how I might use my multi-miter to determine if it was junk, but haven't done that yet. As far as the Head Unit, no, it's the stock one and I've not messed with it. I did get in the vehicle settings to double-check the interior light setting was on "30 seconds" and not turned off. Any suggestions are appreciated.
     
  19. Feb 14, 2020 at 7:28 AM
    #49
    ncorry

    ncorry New Member

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    Before buying a new switch, check with the meter to see if the voltage/ polarity of the wires running into the dome switch change when the door opens/ closes. Something should change based on the door opening/ closing. If it doesn't change, it's not the switch and there's something going on between the door open/close sensors and the switch. There should be at least four wires going into the dome switch. Illumination, ground, 12V+ and something going to wiring harness/computer that changes +/ ground based on the door opening/ closing. I'm betting that there is something unplugged on the door open/close side of things since everything else works.

    If your key is on, does opening the door cause a door chime?
     
  20. Feb 15, 2020 at 11:01 AM
    #50
    adaird

    adaird New Member

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    Yes, if my key is on with the door open, it does cause the chime to sound. Does that narrow it down to what you would suggest I check next?

    I'm getting a little confused on what to test with the multi-meter, not because of your directions, but because I'm a layman with troubleshooting the electrical stuff in a vehicle. I'm thinking you saying I should unplug the multi-pin wire connector that plugs into the back of the 3 position switch (located by cargo light switch to the left of driver) and test the voltage coming out of each pin while opening and shutting the door to see if it's closing the circuit to one of those pins? Could I do this with a tester light?

    If I found that that voltage is coming into one of the wires when opening the door, would you then say it's the switch? Thanks for the help!
     
  21. Feb 17, 2020 at 7:22 AM
    #51
    ncorry

    ncorry New Member

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    At this point, my first piece of advice is to drop some serious cash..... $11 delivered. https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bend...ds=electric+multi-meter&qid=1581952308&sr=8-7
    It is vastly superior to the tester light. No, I am not yet convinced it is the dome light switch. If you swap the bulbs back to OEM, does everything work? If so, I'm at a loss other than trying different LEDs. I'm not aware of anything electrically different between the 2014 and 2019 that I've put 400' of wire into. Actually, with the exception of the colors of a few wires, the wiring is basically identical to the 2007 and 2011 I had previously.

    As to your last question, yes, if the voltage to one of the wires going into the dome light switch changes when you open the door, I'd be closer to thinking it is an issue with the switch, but since you already took it apart and almost lost a spring, there might not be anything actually wrong, it might be reassembled incorrectly.
     
  22. Feb 17, 2020 at 6:28 PM
    #52
    conviccted

    conviccted New Member

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    I have yet to find the problem.I had some Amazon LEDs at first and they worked good for a while.I bought the headlight revolution LED interior light kit thinking it would work but same problem as yours.When I turn on my 3 position switch the LEDs turn on but very dim.
     
  23. Feb 22, 2020 at 1:11 PM
    #53
    Hammerdog

    Hammerdog YCMTSUP

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    WTH, I just went and tried to install my VLEDS footwell kit and BAM no interior lights, now what??
     
  24. Feb 22, 2020 at 1:51 PM
    #54
    Hammerdog

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    10-4, yea I took the bulb out and used there harness. I maybe should have known better and disconnected the cable, but I can’t think of the last time I blew a fuse doing something so simple... and I’ve done a lot of dumb s*** with stereos, lights , etc...
     
  25. Feb 22, 2020 at 1:58 PM
    #55
    Hammerdog

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    Good to have help from “Truck Gang”! T
     
  26. Mar 10, 2020 at 8:21 PM
    #56
    conviccted

    conviccted New Member

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  27. Mar 10, 2020 at 8:26 PM
    #57
    conviccted

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    Went to the Toyota Dealer to get my 10,000 mile service.Told them about my LED light issue.They found the 10 amp fuse(Dome Light ) under drivers foot well was blown.It cost me $3.75 to replace fuse and lights work again.Will see if they last this time around.

    A632DC01-9E8B-4C47-B1B0-E6BD53ACD5F6.jpg
    7F5898CF-6E1C-450E-986C-7738BEAED3D6.jpg
     
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  28. Mar 14, 2020 at 5:53 PM
    #58
    Doctundra

    Doctundra New Member

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    Just replaced fuse today and fixed my dome light issue

    20200314_175058.jpg
     
  29. Mar 15, 2020 at 7:47 AM
    #59
    Donkadonk

    Donkadonk New Member

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    Has anyone every has just the mirror light and done light on the Drivers side stop working? They both work on passenger side. Swapped working bulbs in and nothing.
     
  30. Apr 6, 2020 at 9:59 PM
    #60
    Bob_Wiley

    Bob_Wiley I feel good, I feel great, I feel wonderful...

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    I’m reviving this thread, hoping someone can help me in my ignorance. So the same fuse burned out on me (the 7.5 in the fuse box under the hood labeled “DOME”). I simply replaced it, lights came back on no problem. However, the new fuse didn’t last long (not even a day). So my rather ignorant question is, can I simply plug in a bigger fuse? Is that even possible? If so, will that even address the issue of the 7.5 burning out faster? Thanks in advance!
     

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