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Waterproofing Advice - Door Casing

Discussion in 'Home Improvement' started by Navi, Feb 9, 2020.

  1. Feb 9, 2020 at 1:42 PM
    #1
    Navi

    Navi [OP] New Member

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    I’m getting some water intrusion in this front door casing.

    This is an exterior door on my workshop building behind my house.

    I’ve inspected carefully and it looks like the bottom left side and bottom right side of the threshold is where i see water coming inside.

    It almost seems like this is wind driven rain, hitting the door and running down the door but i could be wrong.

    I know an overhang would help but I should have done that while I was building it. I regret not doing that over the door.

    What’s the best way to for me to get this fixed? Any suggestions?

    F5840883-D0D5-4C7E-A22A-533A40DC1872.jpg 6D0D4CC7-A4FC-4B10-B09A-897C8F4994B4.jpg 861F433B-04B1-4301-BC2A-72856B31935E.jpg 83BA0573-F5B2-4E38-A247-DD8D2576B0E4.jpg
     
  2. Feb 9, 2020 at 1:57 PM
    #2
    TILLY

    TILLY Gently Used Member

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    Have someone hit it lightly with a hose on the outside and see if you can detect the intrusion. Adding a storm door might do the trick also. Hope this helps.
     
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  3. Feb 9, 2020 at 1:58 PM
    #3
    Navi

    Navi [OP] New Member

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    I thought about this as well but have not tried it yet. I'll do that, good idea. thanks
     
  4. Feb 9, 2020 at 2:20 PM
    #4
    Slayer

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    3 options.
    1- storm door.
    2- outswing door
    3- metal weather-strip

    you have what appears to be a budget friendly compression weather-stripped 'in swing' door. It is not designed to be 'weather proof'.
    when the wind blows it will cause the door to be pushed inward & make more of a gap on the weather-strip allowing rain to get passed as you have experienced.

    an 'out swing' door has the opposite effect. tightly pushing against the weather-strip.

    another issue with these budget friendly doors is, the jambs are typically made from pine & rot out at the threshold with-in a couple short years if allowed to get wet frequently or stay wet. I've seen them rot out within 1 year here in the great northwest

    a 'good' storm door is your best option for longevity & cost.

    ..Slayer

    edit..
    after looking at your photo again... your door is designed to be an 'Out Swing' door.
    flip it around. problem solved.
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2020
    NewImprovedRon and Navi[OP] like this.
  5. Feb 9, 2020 at 2:33 PM
    #5
    Navi

    Navi [OP] New Member

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    So... I installed the darn thing wrong?? Dang.. I'm embarrassed but would not have know that. thanks for pointing that out.

    How do you know that by looking at the door? Is it the way the hinges look? I'm just wondering how I got that wrong..
     
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  6. Feb 9, 2020 at 2:46 PM
    #6
    Slayer

    Slayer Member

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    ha.. no worries
    The lowest part of the threshold will always be outside.

    make sure you place a good bead of sealant under the threshold before your re-install and...
    a very good paint.
    I use nothing but Kelly Moore 'Dura Poxy'

    dries to a very hard epoxy finish that will last decades. a $25 quart can will do your door & jamb.

    ..Slayer
     
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  7. Feb 9, 2020 at 2:56 PM
    #7
    Navi

    Navi [OP] New Member

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    i will check that out for sure. as soon as i turn the door around.. ha

    thank you sir
     
  8. Feb 9, 2020 at 3:02 PM
    #8
    Slayer

    Slayer Member

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    no worries.. bud!
    glad I could help.

    I been building homes for 45 years & I absolutely Love, Love, Love what I do.
    unfortunately, one of these days soon, my broken down ol' body is not going to let me do it any longer.

    Looks like a great shop you have there!

    ..Slayer
     
  9. Feb 9, 2020 at 3:02 PM
    #9
    TILLY

    TILLY Gently Used Member

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    The door is installed correctly, if you turn it around the hinges would be on the outside which would allow anyone to remove the door by knocking the pins out.
     
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  10. Feb 9, 2020 at 3:04 PM
    #10
    Navi

    Navi [OP] New Member

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    Then, If it's installed correctly, would you suggest a storm door as the best possible solution? or, a higher quality door instead?
     
  11. Feb 9, 2020 at 3:06 PM
    #11
    Slayer

    Slayer Member

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    nope...
    an outswing door has the center hinge fussed. that pin can not be removed.
    your good to go.
     
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  12. Feb 9, 2020 at 3:20 PM
    #12
    Navi

    Navi [OP] New Member

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    @Slayer .. check it out, pics of the hinges and hing pins.

    You’re correct, the middle one is fused. Also seems like all 3 hinges are fused the same way. Doesn’t seem like any of the pins come out.

    Top down shot of hinges:

    7EB47512-C858-4F27-8614-C765BB67C12D.jpg 15E5A492-FECD-40B6-8805-CB3D643CA7A4.jpg

    Bottom-up shot of hinges (phone on floor, pointing up to ceiling). They don’t come out:

    FBDFA072-F2CC-4669-8870-C50D0E29C63C.jpg

    9B7CA12E-4F71-4290-85C6-B33703BDCE83.jpg
     
  13. Feb 9, 2020 at 3:27 PM
    #13
    Slayer

    Slayer Member

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    Bonus..
    typically, it's just the center hinge.

    when you have some spare change laying around.. a storm door might be a good add on too.

    ..Slayer
     
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  14. Feb 9, 2020 at 7:01 PM
    #14
    1UPPER

    1UPPER Not A New Member

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    Flux capacitor!
    Sorry I’m just now seeing this post. Have you looked at the area above the top of the door casing yet? It doesn’t appear to have any z bar flashing or a drip cap installed above the door. If it doesn’t have the proper flashing above the door it will let water in.

    83EE3DBD-D242-4A42-B88F-F30AEDC09485.jpg

    B13019E8-BCD2-4427-A30F-9C8A8C520A99.jpg
     
  15. Feb 9, 2020 at 7:15 PM
    #15
    Navi

    Navi [OP] New Member

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    You’re right, there’s no flashing up top but that’s something i can install when i put the door back in (to swing out).

    I also feel like when it rains, the rain hits the door and fall straight down to the threshold and then runs inside.

    Also, I built the building about five years ago but this leak has only become a problem in the last for five months or so. I’m not sure what’s changed from the last few years of it not leaking.
     
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  16. Feb 9, 2020 at 7:50 PM
    #16
    Slayer

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    good catch !
     
  17. Feb 9, 2020 at 8:21 PM
    #17
    JohnLakeman

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    Not part of the leak solution but while you have the door out, wouldn't hurt to flash the bottom as well...under the threshold, over and down the siding. Then caulk the flashing/threshold joint. While you have the caulking gun out, caulk the ends of the threshold plate to the jambs, and the top and side trim to the door frame and siding.

    Most exterior doors have some vinyl covered wedges at the bottom of the side weatherstrips where the water is coming in...not seeing them on yours.
     
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  18. Feb 9, 2020 at 9:00 PM
    #18
    831Tun

    831Tun heartless Bastrd

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    @1UPPER nailed that one......pun intended. "Z" bar over the head piece and under the siding above. I also do NOT wrap the flashing in and onto the framing as pictured. In my mind you're giving the water a path to follow. Instead lap it onto the door jamb, install casing then cut back the excess before applying a bead of caulk to the casing/jamb inside corner.
    Check the sill too, looks like it may be blowing in under the door but hard to tell. I always use door pans these days too. Basically a custom made metal (I use copper) flashing that goes under the door, and returns down over the siding below the door. It also wraps up the framing, goes beneath the casing and has a .5" lip on the inside to prevent water from entering beneath the sill.
     
  19. Feb 10, 2020 at 5:40 AM
    #19
    Navi

    Navi [OP] New Member

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    Would you use metal flashing in those spots or the vinyl stuff, or does it matter?
     
  20. Feb 10, 2020 at 5:43 AM
    #20
    Navi

    Navi [OP] New Member

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    Correct - i checked carefully last night and it does seem like it's seeping in under the door.

    Can't pull the door out yet b/c we've been having several days of rain last week and a few more this week. I'm in Atlanta and we even had snow this weekend, which is crazy for our area.
     
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  21. Feb 10, 2020 at 6:09 AM
    #21
    JohnLakeman

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    As @1UPPER showed, use zee flashing or specialty flashing above the door. If you're going to take the door out anyway, I suggested "L" flashing on the bottom just to prevent water getting under your siding at the bottom of the door opening. That caulk joint there is eventually going to fail.

    The wedge seals I was describing are like the link below. They are actually draft stoppers. They will offer some resistance to water running in, but they aren't going to stop blowing rain.

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-4-25-f...5_vVSUiHjr4oHU9Vs-oaAofrEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

    Not disagreeing with @Slayer about the outward opening door being more resistant to driven rain, but before I went to the trouble of removing and reinstalling that door, I would try some screw-on weatherstrips and a door sweep like these:

    https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-7-ft-x-3-8-in-White-Aluminum-Vinyl-Door-Weatherstrip/1000286479
    https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-3-ft-x-2-in-White-Door-Sweep-Aluminum-Vinyl-Door-Weatherstrip/1038919

    If that doesn't fix the water coming in, I would spring for a storm door. I hate screwing with doors once they are installed. :frusty:
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2020
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  22. Apr 8, 2020 at 6:27 PM
    #22
    Navi

    Navi [OP] New Member

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    UPDATE: a couple weeks after this post i went with a storm door. I was about to get a LARSON unit from Lowes and got 20% off so it was just under $200 with tax.

    So far so good. Not taking on any new water, which is a huge help.
     
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  23. May 11, 2020 at 6:35 AM
    #23
    Northern

    Northern New Member

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    Good lesson learned. Take the door out and put the flashing in. This flashing should also be done on every horizontal over the siding, so where you nailed up those horizontal trim pieces, I assume it's to cover a joint. Those horizontal pieces should be attached to the houses framing. House wrap is cut there and dropped down OVER the flashing that is on top of the trim piece. Then the siding goes on, over that. And a gap is put there as show in the pic. I don't leave a gap, I caulk it w/a silicone as a lot of siding material is protected on the face, but not on the edges. Hardisiding is notorious for absorbing (and keeping) water for example where it's not coated.

    Think like water, make sure it can flow down to where it wants to go, then away from the house.

    Make sure you have a sill pan in there that's got stretch waterproof on it and is sloped away from the house. That way, any water that gets past it will hit the rubberized sill pan and flow away from the house. My guess is the sill pan is just framing and not sloped away.

    Think like Water.
     
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  24. May 12, 2020 at 12:19 PM
    #24
    Navi

    Navi [OP] New Member

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    Good information
     

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