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'05 Tundra - 210k miles - Smart buy? (newbie looking for help)

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by thefish712, Feb 2, 2020.

?

Buy or Pass?

  1. Buy

    87.5%
  2. Pass

    12.5%
  1. Feb 8, 2020 at 7:01 AM
    #31
    MrAristo

    MrAristo Hounty Bunter

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    Great write up. One month owner of an 01 tundra w 230k miles myself. Everything is solid, but suspension might be what needs attention. Front passenger side does some good squeaking while driving, I sprayed control arms w PB Blast and it went away but only for a week or so. Thoughts?
     
  2. Feb 8, 2020 at 7:08 AM
    #32
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Total front end rebuild.
     
    MrAristo[QUOTED] likes this.
  3. Feb 8, 2020 at 7:45 AM
    #33
    thefish712

    thefish712 [OP] New Member

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    Awesome write up - thank you for that.

    I am semi-handy and have performed several jobs (past just simple oil changes) on my own in the past, but I wouldn’t consider myself all that knowledgeable. Pretty much, I can get by with YouTube on a lot of stuff but nothing too crazy.

    few questions:
    1) Ball joints/shocks - he has driven it off-road but never beaten it up. I can at least start with the ball joints as that seems more pressing. There was no play when I tried moving, but that’s not a great test. You think that $300 charge is for both? If not, how necessary is it to do both right away? For the shock leak, I couldn’t tell they were leaking at all? How pressing is this and what are the ramifications of not doing this sooner than later?

    2) Brakes - I’m thinking of running with these brake pads. I want good quality, but don’t want to break the bank too bad. What do you think?

    3) Backup camera + head unit - I would like to install this Sony head unit and a backup camera. You think this job is something a novice, but fairly competent,
    person could do on their own? Would I need the extra parts they mention in the “See the installation gear you’ll need”. Do you have any recommendations on a good backup camera to pair with this and is that something I could easily do myself? How does the backup camera connect and know you’re in reverse? TOTALLY new to this

    Thank you for the help!
     
  4. Feb 8, 2020 at 3:15 PM
    #34
    MrAristo

    MrAristo Hounty Bunter

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    Agreed. I lubed everything up today but will eventually have to... Also I just saw this piece loose, any idea?? Looks like whatever was connecting it to the arm above rusted/broke off.
    DF298CC2-8726-4021-BA76-2C4F8C99AE5F.jpg
     
  5. Feb 8, 2020 at 3:25 PM
    #35
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    That is your sway bar link. It attaches to that sway bar just above it in your picture. There is one on the other side, as well. Both of mine broke off years ago just as yours has and the sway bar just drooped down. The truck handled like a boat going around turns. My front end squeaked and groaned going over bumps from worn lower control arm bushings. Tires wore out oddly.

    Take it to a 4 wheel place and let them have at it unless you are comfortable doing major work. I spent about $3400 at the shop split 50/50 parts and labor with a super duper alignment. Money well spent. Truck drives like a dream. I added a Hellwig 7700 rear sway bar DIY and the truck handles even better with a second sway bar. Highly recommend. Check my build page for details.

    https://www.tundras.com/threads/the...vestment-‘build’-a-chronological-story.46816/
     
  6. Feb 8, 2020 at 5:19 PM
    #36
    T-Guy69

    T-Guy69 New Member

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    So, did you make a decision? You buying or passing on the truck???
     
  7. Feb 8, 2020 at 5:46 PM
    #37
    Dog

    Dog sit!

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    In case you pass on the one in the OP, I just ran across this one in Colorado (no affiliation). Not a bad price, I assume the frame is in good shape IF it has been in Colorado the whole time:

    https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/wheat-ridge-one-owner-trd-tundra/7071740585.html

    .
     
  8. Feb 8, 2020 at 6:54 PM
    #38
    MrAristo

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    Had to read twice... thought your sway bar+link job was $3300 :eek2:... phew. Appreciate the detailed response Hand.. Could what I showed you cause the squeaking? IMO I would still believe that’s coming from ball joint and/or control arm bushings.
     
  9. Feb 8, 2020 at 7:19 PM
    #39
    thefish712

    thefish712 [OP] New Member

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    Phew. Nice truck. You getting commission here?? haha

    I'm going with the truck in the OP. Told him we had a deal and he's giving me some time to sell my Jeep. I'm still a little concerned about the number of miles, but maybe I'm just not used to life with a Toyota.
     
  10. Feb 8, 2020 at 7:20 PM
    #40
    thefish712

    thefish712 [OP] New Member

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    I'm going with the truck in the OP. Told him we had a deal and he's giving me some time to sell my Jeep. I'm still a little concerned about the number of miles, but maybe I'm just not used to life with a Toyota.
     
    41bigdawg and Filthyphil like this.
  11. Feb 9, 2020 at 5:22 AM
    #41
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Not sure as I am not there to diagnose. Our trucks general age lend me to think your entire front end is worn out and time for a refresh unless some work has already been done. Your sway bar probably isn’t squeaking if both sides links are broken as it would just be dangling.

    The squeaks on mine were from worn out lower control arms bushings. Won’t hurt to put some new ball joints on just in case based on their failure rate.
     
    Volt92 likes this.
  12. Feb 9, 2020 at 6:45 AM
    #42
    speedtre

    speedtre New Member

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    That's a deal....I would be all over that if I was in the market. My 2006 was a CO one owner vehicle and the lack of rust was impressive.
     
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  13. Feb 9, 2020 at 1:51 PM
    #43
    Dog

    Dog sit!

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    Sold already...no surprise.
     
  14. Feb 10, 2020 at 4:03 AM
    #44
    zombie

    zombie Master at Something

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    $200 plus parts to change 2 sway bar links. Dont get the cheap ones. Say the shop rate is $100/hour. If it takes you more than a 1/2 to change a sway bar link, then I would look for a new career.
     
  15. Feb 10, 2020 at 5:33 AM
    #45
    Professional Hand Model

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    Suggest Hand Modeling!
     
  16. Feb 10, 2020 at 8:36 AM
    #46
    thefish712

    thefish712 [OP] New Member

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    Do you think someone who is by no means an expert but has done their fair share of auto work via Youtube could replace the ball joints on an '05 Tundra?
     
  17. Feb 10, 2020 at 3:14 PM
    #47
    YotaManSD11

    YotaManSD11 New Member

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    $7800 sounds fair. Show him the estimate from your mechanic.
     
  18. Feb 10, 2020 at 3:18 PM
    #48
    thefish712

    thefish712 [OP] New Member

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    $7,800?
     
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  19. Feb 10, 2020 at 3:29 PM
    #49
    Professional Hand Model

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    Yes.
     
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  20. Feb 10, 2020 at 3:36 PM
    #50
    thefish712

    thefish712 [OP] New Member

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    idk where 7800 came from
     
  21. Feb 10, 2020 at 3:55 PM
    #51
    remington351

    remington351 New Member

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    I think were saying your neighbor has a Tundra that he'd sell you for $9k. You had a pre-sale inspection done showing $2,500-$3,000 of repairs needed, thus lowering the sale price to $7,800 or so making it a fair deal for seller and buyer.

    But I think you already said in post #40 that you agreed to buy it for $9k, correct?
     
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  22. Feb 10, 2020 at 4:03 PM
    #52
    thefish712

    thefish712 [OP] New Member

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    Ahh, gotcha. Yeah, I agreed to $9k. He started at $9,600. After looking around, it seems like a good deal still.
     
  23. Feb 10, 2020 at 4:22 PM
    #53
    remington351

    remington351 New Member

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    If the seller is stuck at $9k, even after you showed him all the repairs it needs, I'd withdraw my offer. Otherwise, once all the repairs are completed you're the owner of a 2005 Tundra with 210k for around $12,000.

    You're on the losing end of that deal.
     
  24. Feb 10, 2020 at 4:30 PM
    #54
    thefish712

    thefish712 [OP] New Member

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    Anyone else side with Remington351 here? Everything I've heard says it's still a good buy. Even the guy at the shop who has only been working on Toyotas for the last 20 years said it's a good deal for how clean this truck is.
     
    revtune likes this.
  25. Feb 10, 2020 at 4:34 PM
    #55
    speedtre

    speedtre New Member

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    Well, I see his point, but there is no 15 yo vehicle with 210k miles that doesn't need $2k+ worth of work....my 1 owner with a stack of records with 84k miles needed $1500 worth of work....
     
  26. Feb 10, 2020 at 4:39 PM
    #56
    Professional Hand Model

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    I’d have started the negotiation at the asking price less repairs and seen where it went.

    If you want the truck, then buy it realizing you still have some $$$ to put into it.

    I’ve reinvested $6k in repairs/parts and countless hours of work on my truck these last 2 years. Saving grace is no truck payment and low personal property tax. Other biggie is this truck is go to go for quite a few years based on testimonials.
     
  27. Feb 10, 2020 at 4:42 PM
    #57
    remington351

    remington351 New Member

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    Hold on, Fish. Auto sales are local. A 9k truck where you are in CA might only be a 7k truck around my area in MD. In the long run, +\- a couple thousand dollars on a truck purchase rarely bankrupts anyone. I was trying to convey that unless you need the truck immediately, a better priced truck with less immediate repair needs will probably come on the market in the future.

    I know here in MD a leaking steering rack, leaking shocks, no brake pads will fail the DMV safety inspection, so no title or tags until those repairs are completed. CA might be different. If similar, you're buying a truck you can't title, cant drive, and immediately need to spend hundreds to thousands on from day one.

    Maybe because when I was younger I made a similar choice and when all was said and done, other than the benefit of the learning experience making all the repairs, I felt I should have waited.
     
    thefish712[OP] likes this.
  28. Feb 10, 2020 at 7:58 PM
    #58
    seth419

    seth419 New Member

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    That truck will likely be gone in a few days at 9k in so cal. Its not a screaming deal but I still think its not a bad deal and those repairs are pretty minor. You could do it all yourself over time for under a grand. The front brakes seem to be the most urgent and brake pads are very easy to replace. It already has the bigger brakes on it since its an 06. Cracked LCA bushings are common and they have probably been cracked for some time. What does the tire tread wear look like? That could give you an indication

    Have you driven it yet? If not, drive it and see how it feels. Is the steering rack visibly dripping power steering fluid or is it the weep that makes the boots wet that every one of these trucks has being 15 years old now? Is there a bunch of play in the steering or is it tight? Definitely pull the plugs and check them out and replace if they are worn.

    Leaking valve gasket covers is a common issue. The rubber gasket is 15 years old and dried out. Again, not something thats a huge deal but is a super easy job to do and a good way to get acquainted with your new truck. You can get a kit that has gaskets, spark plug tube seals and new rubber washers for the valve cover bolts for under $50.
     
  29. Feb 10, 2020 at 9:04 PM
    #59
    flyfisher

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    Make sure the 4WD works. Can easily overlook this, and it can be an expensive fix.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2020
    thefish712[OP] likes this.
  30. Feb 10, 2020 at 10:07 PM
    #60
    thefish712

    thefish712 [OP] New Member

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    Hey guys, thanks for the all the advice! Seems like there really isn't a right answer and kind of just have to make a decision and go with it. I get a good feeling from the seller, he's my neighbor, has several Toyotas that he's kept well maintained over the years, and overall a good guy. Not saying that's full-proof by any means, but it helps.

    Like you guys have mentioned, you buy a used truck (especially 15 y/o) and there are going to be some inherent issues to take into consideration. I'm sure if I took my Jeep into the shop it would come back with several items to fix as well and it's much newer and has been kept up pretty well.

    Truck drives great from what I could tell! I couldn't see any steering rack leakage, but I'm no pro either. Didn't see any leakage from the valve gaskets - at least not on the ground. There was some grim on the engine but nothing crazy. Same deal with the shocks.

    Sounds like I (as a novice mechanic) could fix the valve gasket covers, the bushings (yeah?), and obviously the brake pads myself. Correct?

    *sidenote: I will no longer have a $350 car payment if I go with this truck. Woowoo!
     
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