Best Battery choice for build?

They didn’t honor the 5 year warranty on the X2?

 

yes, the two grounds (battery to driver fender, passenger fender to block) are the easiest to replace.

i used the anl fuse on the alternator run as was described in the post i linked above.

i did not skip the fuse box but did have to extend the factory cable to reach the new battery setup.

i may be able to get some pictures. it's really tight in there with the dual batteries but i can look.

 

I had this setup in my Jeep, very convenient. Ran it through the firewall and mounted in the cab.

 

no, it's just the voltage regulator cable into the fuse box. i'll try and get you some pictures later this afternoon.

 

here's the side of the fuse box and the voltage regulator cable...



it's the only one that comes out of the fuse box. goes to positive terminal on the battery.

so, if you do all of the cables, you will have the following...

- alternator to battery positive. add anl if you decide.
- fuse box voltage regulator to battery positive
- negative battery to engine block (ground). this is the one where you have to go through driver side wheel well
- negative battery to driver fender (ground)
- passenger fender to engine block (ground)

the run from the alternator to the battery is the most difficult. be careful/mindful of the retaining clips and how you unwind the factory loom.

 

I believe the 27F has reversed pos and neg locations.. my 2019 has positive on the passenger side and neg on the driver side..

 

The 27F has the same terminal locations as stock (+ on PS, - on DS).

Dan

 

Northstar 27F for sure.

 

Optima line are sweet batteries.

 

I put a 31M in my 4 runner.. had to make bus bars to reach the terminals.. I might try to put one in my tundra using the same technique.. too bad pelfrey built went out of business.. they made a bad ass group 31 barrery cage...

 

The difference in charging voltage is 0.1V between a glass mat and wet cell(2.2V vs 2.1), the stock alternator will be fine with a AGM battery. An equalizing charge could be done with a battery charger once every few months to ensure full capacity.

 

It's not that big of an issue; the difference in maximum charging voltage is small. How many people who own a wet cell battery ever perform an equalizing charge to fully de-sulfate the plates anyway? How many people bother to check electrolyte levels or specific gravity? Not taking a AGM battery to maximum charging voltage will simply not fully charge it and a typical alternator doesn't have different charging profiles to raise a battery to 100% capacity or perform an equalizing charge anyway. In any case, using a battery charger that can determine the state of the battery and perform a more precise charge would lead to the longest life no matter what cell type is used.

 

Agreed.. I put my AGM on a charger every tire rotation...

 

That is just one example of a battery that was in a rock-buggy Jeep with a small alternator and is not representative of typical use. The alternator in that vehicle could have put out a few more tenths of a volt and the battery would have had the same end of life anyway.

 

It's also not a big issue to throw a new alts fuse in the fuse box. It takes all of 30 seconds.

I doubt there's any test data to show how much longer the battery will last but for the simple plug and play installation it's worth it to me.

The top of the battery states right on it the charging voltage of 14.4-14.8. the stock charger maxes out at 14. It was designed for wet cell charging. Of the tundra came with an agm do you really think Toyota would still use the same charging system when it's not the correct design?

This is kind of like arguing we should all be running conventional oil since that's what cars have used for a century

People that are spending the money to upgrade to agm do so because they have higher demands. It would be wise to take care of your battery so it can take care of you

 

Alternators are not optimized to analyze the state of charge of a battery and perform battery charges, they're designed to put out ~14V. All of the newer heavy trucks I drive also come with AGM batteries and the voltage regulator normally puts out ~14V on those as well. Using a battery charger that can determine battery health and provide an equalizing charge or recovery as necessary than just constantly applying a higher voltage to it when the engine is running is a better way to extend battery life. Also, the stock Tundra alternator can put out 14.3V.

 

I get what your saying but I also don't think anyone has seen a side by side test and how higher charging voltage might effect battery life. I just saw it as a simple mod that couldn't hurt. Some of us rely heavily on our batteries so why not do something that could potentially keep it running in top order?

I've never seen 14.3V even at higher engine rpm, that's still below the minimum anyways.

I also run 200 watts of solar to a Victron mppt which allows me to set the correct charging profile based on the battery specs. No need to plug in to a battery maintainer, but I will when my truck sits for extended periods occasionally

 

The 14.4-14.8 is the "cycle" charging voltage, as in you cycled (discharged) the battery and are recovering it after a discharge. Applying 14.6V at all times does nothing.

If you take the battery to 0% state of charge each day, yes it's worth connecting to a battery charger every day. Otherwise it's not necessary except to perform an equalizing charge every few months.

 

Need to change my battery soon. Odyssey or optima?

 

Oh man... this is why I don't look for non Tundra related information on this forum

 

Interstate has never let me down. There are only a few battery manufactures and a lot of labels out there. I go with what I trust. Made from Exide. I'm sure there are other good ones, but why would I change when getting 10 years+ out of a battery. BTW, unless I missed it here in the thread, there is a 240 amp alternator available.

 

Question for the battery pros. Looks like interstate is making AGM batteries at a very reasonable cost but sizing is H6, H7 or H8. Anyone try on of these out?

 

I have been looking at these. Is this the exact mode for the tundra?

 

The 27m has threaded posts also.. the size will fit but you want the positive terminal on the passenger side.. the 27F has the correct terminal orientation to keep the stock wiring..

 

What he said:

direct link:
https://www.batteriesplus.com/product-details/auto_light-truck/battery/x2power/sli27fagmdp

 

Added a deka 8a27m to my 2016 tundra this week

 

Those are some serious bus bars... at that point you can run a 31M. Some battery box options availiable