Icon DJ upper control arm alignment

Hi everyone, I am a long time reader of the forum but finally joined today because I am having issues getting my truck aligned. It drives ok but I don’t think it drives as good as it should. I get a little “floating” sensation at freeway speed. It has King Ext length coilovers with adjusters, adjustable rear king shocks. Tire size is a 315/70r17 on Icon 6 speed wheels. Right now I do not have a sway bar installed but it doesn’t change with our without it. The alignment shop is telling me they can not get the caster any higher without sacrificing camber. I have not adjusted the preload in the coilovers at all since I received them. Could that make a difference? Is this an instance I need to cut the inner tie rods like the icon arm installation instructions say might have to happen? I am really regretting buying these icon arms and am about to have a nice paper weight and buy some total chaos or camburg arms if I can’t get more caster out of these icons. I was drawn to the icons mainly because I live in northern AZ and get all kinds of weather. The delta joint is awesome. I have attached a picture of my final alignment specs the shop gave me. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

I could add the tires have 500+ miles on them. I have checked torque on all the suspension components and they are good. This leads me to believe it is a caster/alignment issue

 

FWIW there have been threads with regards to people not having great luck with alignments and Icon arms.

Also, I have Camburg, they add a lot of caster out of the gate. This is not always a good thing. I like the recessed hardware....but been thinking of maybe switching to TC.

 

Adding preload might help a tiny bit but you still won't get enough caster. Only other option other than getting new arms is cutting your tie rods so they don't bottom out. But who the hell wants to do that?

 

If it can save me from having to get new arms, I will do it. I just want to make sure that can be a solution. I don't want a ton of caster, just feel like I need to be in the 3.0-3.5 range if possible to help with the "wandering" or "floating" feeling at freeway speed.

I also don't want to have to buy new arms because then I will be stuck with these. I can't imagine there is too much of a market for used control arms. Even if they do only have a few hundred miles on them and are in perfect shape.

 

People buy used arms all the time. Problem is, if they are problematic for you, they may also be for someone else.

Keep in mind, adding too much preload you'll need to ensure the suspension is properly setup elsewhere. Icon states if adding more than 2" of preload to the coil over, you need to extend the bump stop to prevent coil bind.

 

I wouldn't add much. Just a turn or two. I think I am going to do some research and possibly adjust the preload a little and cut the tie rods. I would rather try that then buying new arms and it seems like they all have their issues. I have a call in to Icon so they should be giving me a call back. The fact I have King coilovers and not Icon shouldn't make a difference.

 

Ha! I have Icon Tubular DJ's sitting in my garage. Also have Camburg Kinetic Heims. And brand new Icon Billet Heims still in the box. Gonna have to put them up for sale soon.

 

interested in getting rid of the Camburg Kinetic or Icon billet heim arms?

 

Before I decide to cut tie rods/adjust preload I was hoping SDHQ or Icon chimes in directly since they have a lot of experience with the Icon arm.

 

yard sale !

 

I would not cut the tie rods. There are plenty of very knowledgeable members on here that have not chimed in yet.

 

I’ve also got some icon tubular dj uca sitting in my garage waiting on warm weather to install. Hope you figure it out soon. If not I might be in the same situation and we can figure it out together.

Right now I have 6112s and sometimes get the floating feeling you are talking about. I think my alignment is good though. I get it bad around curves. Feels like I am sliding, but I know I’m not cause some times I try to make it slide and it feels different. I have the rear say bar too.

 

I just really do not want to have to get another set of $800-$1200 arms if I can get better caster with the Icons. If that means cutting the tie rods I am fine with that.

 

I know cutting is somewhat free, but coachbuilder makes new tie rods. I wonder if those adjust better. They are cheaper than $800-$1200.

 

I don’t think their tie rods would cure anything. Theirs are just outer tie rods and the cutting is of the inner tie rod where the outer tie rod threads onto it. I could be wrong though

 

I would give @coachbuilder a call. Being that he manufactures suspension and steering components, I bet he would be able to offer some solutions to help you.

 

Just looking at their website I don't think I would gain anything with buying their steering. Sure it is stronger but it doesn't appear to screw on the inner tie rods any different. The steering is also $379. Cutting tie rods is way cheaper than that.

 

Well I have another appointment with a different shop here in town. I told them what is going on and they are going to look at it and see what they think about getting more caster.

 

After the other shop did the alignment I am a lot happier. they were able to get the alignment set with these specs:

Caster 3.6L 3.4R
Toe .10 both sides (.20 total)
Camber -.4 both sides (seems OK)

I am really happy with the way it drives. It has no "floating" sensation at freeway speed and seems to track way better. I am unsure about that camber number. I don't want to cause any extreme tire wear.