What home improvement work did you do today?

Haha. At this point I know just enough to get myself into trouble!

 

Well that’s about it. Once our new tv arrives I will drill a hole for the wires. All the boxes will be behind the tv stand, accessible by the door under the stairs. I tossed around the idea of build in shelving, but since we’re just trying to finish to sell, this is the fastest way to slap it together. My wife will be painting it some darker grey color she wants.

 

Thanks

 

Nothing like a detatched garage or a horse barn with central heating and cooling...

but a PITA for me considering the first one I picked up had the compressor hanging half way out the back when I unpacked it. another trip to lowes to take it back and get redneck enough to get $200 bucks back for my troubles.

 

inside will be unfinished. Siding will be different guys because he stopped by day 2 two see what we had on the house to match. I know from a few years back when we were getting a garage rebuilt after a fire at the old house this county's inspectors are hard core and new hurricane rules are really followed hard.

 

thinking of doing a accent wall in my great room with shiplap or pallet wall if any of you have done that can you post some pictures and let me know what product you used ? I believe I seen something 6 months ago or longer but I don't want to scroll through pages and pages to try and maybe find it.
Thanks again !

 

I'd like to see that too. We have a wall at our entrance that has always been contrasting and it is in need of upgrading. We looked at the stone option, but it's pricey.

I assume if you put up pallet or shiplap style, you remove the drywall or your have double thick walls and the door frames wouldn't match up.

 

I did the wood accent wall for client of mine. This was actually old cedar fence pickets. I painted the backside of this drywall a gray color first. This way when you have gaps or cracks in the wood you won’t see the white or light color Sheetrock behind the wood. I will warn you that if the wood has different widths like the old fence pickets I did you will have to keep running the wood through a table saw. Otherwise the rows will have big gaps and not line up as you continue to work your way up. Another easier way to do this is look into a product called ghost wood. It’s a new wood that already has the distressed look the wood. The material will be the same width and make the install a lot easier. You can also look into a tongue and groove wood material or ship lap pattern like you mentioned above. This will help you avoid the problem of seeing between the wood. A little tip before you start installing the wood. Mark all your studs on the wall with a light pencil line. This will save you time and make sure you nail all the wood into studs. You will need to know where the studs are for when you do any butt joints. I hope this helps you.

 

I need to insulate my detached garage approximately 30x20. I am trying to figure out the most practical way to do it. I use it to work on my truck and projects. It doesn't have to be pretty since I am the only one that goes out there. We do not have to bad winters here but it can get cold sometimes. I am just getting a lot off moisture problems in there also, hence the need to insulate

 

Thanks ! Im actually looking for something that is already the same widths and pre finished like the ghost wood that you are explaining. Where do you buy something like that ?

 

The ghost wood brand is actually sold at some local places like Home Depot & Lowe’s. I would double check their pricing because they charge a lot more than if you get it from a local wood supply yard or order it online.

 

Do you have a ceiling on the garage?

 

@1UPPER
Can you please stop posting your beautiful work.
You better not retire because you are building my next house.

 

Lol. Thanks for compliments. I don’t plan on retiring anytime soon. I’ve got a lot of big plans to achieve yet.

 

No ceiling as of yet. It has a metal roof so I was going to screw plywood to the rafters and put some insulation above it and a little access for later. It is basically a pole barn. The post at 4x4 8 feet apart so I need to figure out how to keep the insulation in there. I was thinking plastic with some 1xs screwed to the posts

 

Pallets, several different widths, mix of 4 different stains and I aged the wood using a mix of steel wool soaked in vinegar and a black tea bag.

 

Be careful on which product you choose to insulate with.
Your condensation problem has to do with.. the dew point, It doesn’t have to freeze to get condensation... it has to do with whatever the dew point is & colder temps outside than inside. Where these temperature changes meet & mix is where your condensation problem occurs. This will be on the inside of the sheet steel & the horizontal wood members.

Dont use fiberglass batts for that application... the gaps in the Fiberglass insulation this will still allow air movement & allow the temperature changes to mix. Now you have wet insulation & have mold issues.

If it were me.. I would use spray foam & cover everything.... Sheets & all wood members.

Another budget friendly option would be to remove the sheet goods & install foam insulation panels then replace the steel sheet panels.
If you choose the 2nd option make sure you tuck tape every seam or use 2 thinner layers & offset the seems to control air movement.

hope this helps..... Slayer

 

Awesome info. I’ll look into the cost to do that.

 

And I may be part of that if I head Southwest instead of NC.

 

Tried my hand at some garage storage solutions....first wife said "we need a bench to sit on so I can put my shoes on" so I went to Lowes picked up a cushion and then made a bench with some under storage, then I needed some shelves for "stuff" by my toolbox....




Then I looked over at my surfboard and started thinking it needed a home to and a place to hang my wetsuit to dry....



Definitely not beautiful custom woodworking but not bad for a DIY'er

 

My electricians have all my led highbay lighting installed for my 100x200 covered horse arena. It’s very well lit but I’m considering installing diffusers over the lights if the client approves them. This will help reduce glare from the highbay leds. I had all my led lights dropped to the same finish height off the final footing. This gives and even light pattern in the arena and keeps the lights below the fans blades to prevent the strobe light affect.

The base footing work should be starting in the next few weeks. I’ve got 3x 16’ big ass fans going in this arena. I like to get all the overhead work on an arena done before the final footing work is placed. I don’t want any screws or debri in the finished footing that could injury a horse.

This configuration of led highbay lights give a good illumination of lighting for the rider and horse. Here’s a chart showing my lighting plan layout and the light output from the leds.

 

Took advantage of a break in the weather yesterday and finished installing the metal roofing panels on my garage.

Got most of the ridgecap on except the ends because I still need to install the gable trim before putting those end pieces of ridgecap on. Guess I'll have to wait for the next warm day with no snow on the roof, but at this point, I can have the solar panels installed any time.

 

I filled up my glass with bourbon!!! Wow! And i refilled it like 3 times!!!

 

Latest

 

Damn you move quick!

 

Couple of Saturday daylight pics for @1UPPER to review. Lol

 

Your garage is looking good! Any interior pictures so I can see what blocking they did over your garage door headers and along the top plate walls?

Only thing I can see is the bottom of the window nailing flange has been taped over it. Typically you only install the tape behind the bottom flange of the windows and not over them. This is done so that if water does get behind the window or around the window it will be able to escape.



You can see in the photo below the bottom of the window flange has the flashing tape behind the flange but not over it. This will allow any potential water to exit below the window and escape out over the exterior membrane layer. This is a simple and easy fix to do.