UPDATE *questions answered* Has anyone installed a Passive keyless entry? I have some questions

Following to see how this works out

 

Which module did you buy?

 

The directed 555x

 

Looks like that module wont work. After some real research I ordered a Fortin Evo-key

 

Post back your findings after you attempt the install!

 

Any updates on the bypass module? Here is the response from the manufacturer regarding a bypass module.

"For the bm002 it works method the ec002 together, so it’s controlled by the ec002 pke kits actually.

We have 2 bypass module, the other one is bm001:

$13 EASYGUARD BM001 Universal Immobilizer Bypass Module for Car Alarm Remote Engine Start & Push Engine Start Button Usage

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MEHBVIC

Which is similar as the bm002, but with the 2 wires: one red wire for connection with ACC or ignition1 and the black is for chassis ground. which can only activated when ACC or ignition 1 has electricity.

Btw, the ec002 can work with 95% universal bypass module on the market such as 556,791,dball2 etc. which can also work with the fortin bypass module, just connect with non-data mode will OK.

Regarding this words” The bypass needs a negative switch to activate but doesnt seem like the PKE has one for this purpose. “, the ec002 actually has, just the orange, yellow and white 3 color wires in the kit.

And you can use the method 2 in note 8 to connect it with the bypass negative switch wire, which usually calls a GWR-ground while running (-) wire".

So per the manufacturer, it seems as thought their bypass or any other mainstream bypass will work. I decided to just use the key taped to the immobilizer ring instead. It is tucked into/under the shroud which would either need to be cut or broken to take off since you have to rotate the wheel both ways to access the screws to remove it. The stock ignition is also disconnected so there is no way to turn the cut key to start. This is enough security for me. I'm not worried about the professional thief that sneaks into my yard at night and works for 20m to get it started and steals my truck, I just need to protect it from the bandit in the Walmart parking lot. The PKE itself does a fair enough job of that.

BTW, so far so good. I am loving this PKE and it has exceeded all of my expectations.

 

Here is a short video I threw together for anyone interested in this mod. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4zuzvbJ-ug

Also, still going good. No issues thus far. It has been ridiculously dependable and the distance to lock and unlock is the same every time making it predictable as well.

 

Have you used the remote start. Only hurdle I'm worried about right now is that you need to unlock and lock doors during the remote start process to avoid setting off the factory alarm.

 

Mine does the same, I just unlock..remote start...and it locks back up automatically. Or alternatively you could remote start and then hit unlock when the alarm goes off. Not too much of a biggie though, I'll send the manufacturer an email and see if there is another way around this.

 

@prerunnerseth - have you made any headway on the bypass module?

Also, as an update, the PKE is still working flawlessly! Very pleased with the result

 

Havent had time to mess with it. I'm still hung up on the remote start issue.

 

Which issue? The alarm going off when you start it. To me that’s a non-issue. I just unlock it and then remote start. It locks back within 3seconds after starting.

 

Checking in on longer term reliability...still happy with the system?

 

So far so good. I'm happy to report that after about 8 months everything is still working as expected....really better than expected. The remote consistently unlocks and locks the vehicle at the same distance away and the pushbutton hasn't given me any issues either. It's really a pretty jam up system despite having to leave a cut key in the ignition to unlock the steering wheel.

 

So if I am tracking correctly, for this to work you need the

EASYGUARD EC002-V0 PKE Passive keyless Entry car Alarm System auto Start Push Start Button NFC Lock Unlock Backup keyless go dc12v

easyguard pke kit and that's it? You instal the kit per the directions found here. The kit provides you with remote start, PKE, a keypad you can mount on the windscreen if the battery in the remote dies, and push button start. Drawbacks are you currently have to leave a key in the ignition to prevent the wheel from locking. Am I missing anything? This looks like a no brainer mod to me.

 

Exactly, my only suggestion is to get

$114 EASYGUARD EC002-T2-NS PKE Car Alarm System Proximity Sensor Lock Unlock Remote Engine Start Push Start Button Touch Password Entry Backup Vibration Alarm DC12V

this one since it has the Toyota style remote. I got the Kia style remote which works fine but the Toyota logo sticker will not fit in the groove for the emblem.

 

This is my project for next weekend. Thank you @Beau for all the write-ups and work. I might try to do an install video while I'm in there.

 

YW. Post back with your progress. Also, as seen on my build thread, I decided to put the pushbutton on the dash as opposed to on the steering column where the key goes. I put a cover over the cut key on the column. IMO, it looks more OEM that way. Good luck.

 

Yah, I looked up some pictures of the 2020 sequoia interior and they have a blank space where the key goes and the push button is mounted flat below the gage area to the left of where Beau mounted theirs.

 

Finally got around to this, radio install (then removal) was priority.

Went off the guide, but couldn't trace the lock wires or light wires in the 2019, so it won't lock/unlock yet or flash lights. I hear the unit clicking, but no action.

Push start works though! Haven't tried remote start yet, was 1am when I got it back together and kids were sleeping.

I took zero pictures, but plan on doing a new thread when I get it working well.

I want to move the disable ring and chip somewhere I can take it with me easily if parking somewhere shady or a long time, so I need to brain storm on that too.

 

Update: got a Haynes manual to try and find my unlock/lock wires (and to have one). Wire color for the lock signal was wrong (unlock was working) so I attempted another...

I've blown a fuse in the driver's side J/B, but all the fuses check good. The door locks don't function...unless there is ignition power. Ugh, so frustrating. I'm going to subscribe to Techstream for the weekend and try to figure it what happened. Hopefully the entire J/B isn't toast, but I'm not sure what else it could be now other than a possible relay, but the 6GA power wire to the J/B is still hot, so not quite sure what to check next.

I was so close to wrapping this up, now the truck is almost unusable. Weekend is going to be full.

 

It works! Am I the first 2019 to try this? I'll tell ya, was rough cutting into wires in a new truck, but I hate having a key!

I don't think I would recommend this install for anyone not able to breathe deep, read wiring diagrams, and solder some wires. It was really frustrating at times (blew two fuses in the process), but it is working and hopefully remains trouble free. However, most of the issues I had were with the wire taps I used, they were intermittent and causing problems. I also tried to use the lock and unlock signal lines for the smart key. The lines for the physical key lock in the door turned out to be the correct ones.

I'm not 100% done, I still need to get my temp keys cut and move the button. I also never found the parking light lines...and might never finish that. I did use the bypass module, and it seems to work well with the key and module hidden, but accessible in order to take it out for long departures from the truck or parking in shady areas. When the system is showing reliable after a few weeks I'll disconnect the stock ignition for added protection.

I only installed one of the PKE antennas, right above the rear view mirror. I have another for the C-pillar if I have issues with unlock while approaching.

Here are some photos. I'm going to do a little video like @Beau did to show function in a Tundra as well. I love that when I walk away the windows and the moon roof close. Didn't know that was a thing until it did it automatically with a double pulse lock signal. The Sequoia tutorial helped get me started, but I needed to rent the full wiring diagrams to figure out most of the wires. Luckily, the ignition wires remained the same. I really like the external key-pad as well for leaving keys behind, starting the car without keys, etc.

When I'm 100% done I may do a write-up, but I also don't want anyone to think they can wade into this without full understanding of automobile electronics and how to read wiring diagrams. Fortunately I come from a technical background and owned VWs before...so I have a lot of practice!

Ignition wires. These were intermittent and caused issues. I ended up soldering the taps onto the lines so I could keep the quick disconnect portion. Right side behind the key lock:


Horn tap, left side under the wheel:


Remote Start antenna below the steering column. I haven't tested the range yet, but this was the recommended install point:


These f*ckers almost ended me, ...another intermittent connection that wasn't working. You can see the other lines that I tried. I also fried two fuses in the process.

Red is unlock, black is lock. Double pulse from the unit (with the DIP switches) opens all locks every time, and closes windows and moon roof when walking away.


Totally losing at this point...


Third hand was new to me, and this one has magnetic feet, AMAZING help for these weird solder angles.


Tapped the main power from into the driver's J/B and soldered it on. Threw a 10A fuse in there too:


Soldering on the taps for the ignition wires:


Thanks again to @Beau for the encouragement!

Next project: mirrors that retract when the doors lock! (I think wiring them always on, vs accessory, and then an external switch for the lock signal might work...)

Ryan

 

Hehehe. You got to love CHINA!

 

Awesome job and way to stick with the project! You will love the PKE function and all the troubles will be well worth it. Mine is still going strong and the only thing I have had to do was change the battery in the remote. Which key did you end up getting? I recommend getting a case for it to cut down on the accidental button pushes while it's in your pocket. Also, I think you may be ok with only 1 antenna since you have a truck. In the sequoia, the second antenna is necessary in order to unlock the back hatch. Please attach me to your power mirror writeup! I may follow in your footsteps there.

 

Hey all, me too I am trying to modify my 1st gen 2005 Sequoia. I'm modernizing it by installing all LEDs, a new android headunit, and I've been reading a lot about these PKE systems lately.

A bit of reference: For anyone who does not know already, the immobilizer system in modern cars (2000s and up) prevents the car from starting up if it does not detect a transponder chip that is located in the key. This chip needs to be programmed to your specific car. So even if you can lockpick the lock, or even if you have the right "cut" in your key, if your car does not detect the chip it will not let you start the vehicle. It is an added security measure that effectively immobilizes (does not let you start the vehicle) unless you both have a key PROGRAMMED and with THE RIGHT CUT.

Here are my two cents (or what I think I understand) about the key transponder and the immobilizer bypass.

Manual Immobilizer Bypass:
So the way that I have seen it done in many of your posts has been to basically take out the "detector" ring on the key cylinder, take the spare transponder key, glue (or tape) it to the ring, and dump it somewhere covered inside the dash so the car "always" thinks that it sees the key transponder no matter what you actually put in the ignition.


Steering Wheel Lock Bypass:
Additionally, to bypass the steering column lock (that annoying thing that locks your steering wheel when your key is not in the ignition and then you need to wiggle everything until you unlock it), you also need to leave an additional "cut" key in the ignition, so that the steering wheel does not lock when you start the car with a button (the lock cylinder needs to have something inside).

​

The way I understand it, then, is that since the transponder (the chip in the key) is always being detected, and a cut key is always in the ignition, all you have to do to seal the car is break in, turn the cut key in the ignition, and you should be good to go.

Though I still think what you gain in convenience makes the mod worth it, it still makes me a little nervous. I also was hoping to keep the "key" capability so that if someone has the old key they can still drive the car. However, it seems the immobilizer bypass devices make the installation harder, so I did a little bit of research and here's what I found out.

My goals are:

• Not have any (regardless of if it was a transponder or not) spare key in the car when I leave.
• Be able to still start the car with a transponder key.
• Compromise as little safety as I can.

Steering wheel lock removal:

So if I want to not have any key in the transponder, then the only way to bypass the steering column locking mechanism is to remove it. I haven't attempted this yet, but from what I have heard, this is the way it works. The steering column has something that looks like a "disk" with holes in it. When there is no key in the ignition, the key cylinder has kind of like a pin that springs out, and as you turn the steering wheel and one of those pins aligns with a hole in the disk, it goes through the hole and locks the steering column in place. The only way to unlock it is to pull the pin down, which you do by just re-inserting and turning the key.​

This can be removed, but it is a little hard. Again, from my research, it seems you have 2 ways to remove it.

• The mechanism is fastened to the steering column with bolts that shear off once the car manufacturer has torqued them, so there's no actual way to untorque them. The way you actually do it, is to use a pin to make a small ding in the bolt, and then a hammer to turn it. Kind of like chisseling the top of the bolt. You can see a guy do it in this video. You can also try to use a Dremel tool and make a groove on the head of the bolt, and then use a flat screwdriver to turn it. Video 1. Video 2. Video 3. Video 4. Video 5.

• You can also remove the lock cylinder assembly from the car, identify the pin that springs up, and then just sand it with a Dremel until there is no pin anymore.

Does that permanently disable the steering wheel lock? Yes. Is that a big compromise on safety? Yes, but it is a compromise I am willing to make in order to not have a key that turns the car on always in the ignition. I believe this lock is used so that it is harder for thieves to turn the steering wheel and tow the car, but I would rather have them need to tow the thing than them be able to turn it on, because if they have the equipment to tow it, they will be able to tow it regardless of the lock.​

So that should remove the need to use a cut key in the ignition. Let's move on to the transponder bypass.

Transponder Bypass Methods:

Spare Key Method:​

• So one way to do it is to leave a transponder key in there at all times by moving the transponder detector ring to somewhere inside the dash and taping a spare key to it. Even if I manage to not need to use a cut key in the ignition, this means that a lockpicker could lockpick the car lock and start the car, which would effectively render the transponder system worthless.

​

"Dumb" Immobilizer Bypass Devices​

• So then I looked into immobilizer bypass devices. The way the ones from EASYGUARD work, is you put a key in them, and there's kind of like an antenna relay that you put around the transponder ring in your key cylinder. There's two models.

1. 1. The
      $13 BM001 Universal Immobilizer Bypass Module for Car Alarm Remote Engine Start & Push Engine Start Button Usage
      BM001 forwards the signal from the key that you put inside to the transponder detector ring using a 12V signal (i.e. all the time, or all the time the ACC power is on, whatever cable you hook the positive 12V to). So that doesn't really solve my problem, since you can lock-pick the car lock, turn it to ACC, then the immobilizer bypass will activate and transmit the transponder signal to the lock, and then you just turn it all the way and voila, all you need to steal my car is a toothpick (great dramatic simplification here lol ).

​

2. The BM002 forwards the signal from the key all the time. Doesn't even need a 12V signal. So that is even worse.​

Of course, with both these solutions, you have to have a key inside the little box at all times, which again does not solve my problem.
​

Programmable Immobilizer Bypass Devices

So then here's where other programmable universal bypasses come in. They cost a little more ($35 to $45), but to me how they operate is well worth the money. Those are the Evo KEY universal immobilizer bypass and the idatalink universal immobilizer bypass.​

Here's how these work. Instead of having an antenna and relaying the transponder signal from the key to the lock, they actually hook up to the wires that manage the transponder readings (Tx and Rx cables on the lock). You can program these devices by first wiring them, then turning your car on and the box will actually learn and decode what kind of transponder signal is being sent to your car (through the wires), and then just replicate it everytime it is told to. That is it, no extra key, no nothing. So that eliminates the need to have a key buried in the dash.

​

In my case, I would leave the connections that have to be cut uncut so I can still use the regular key, but that might need a diode. Still need to figure that one out.

Now, you can tell these two devices to send the transponder signal in two ways.

1. DATA-LINK: The first one is through a "data mode", which has a bus going from the bypass to the Easyguard. This would be the safest option, as very few thieves are going to know how to replicate the data signal to tell the bypass to engage. It might even be encrypted, I don't know though.

The problem is that the EASYGUARD model does NOT support data-link. So you can't really do this. There are other more expensive solutions (i.e. Digital Guard Dog) which do support this, but you're looking at at least $300. I am not willing to spend that much on a car this old, regardless of how much I love her! The EASYGUARD is an incredibly cheap alternative for the money, and I want to go that route.

2. Ground When Running (GWR) Wire: The other method is using the GWR (ground when running) cable on the EASYGUARD. Though I am not 100% sure, I believe the way this little cable works is, when your EASYGUARD is ready to start the car, it makes it a ground. Basically this is made so that the EASYGUARD is able to tell the immobilizer bypasses when it thinks they should engage, after they have verified the key. I could be wrong, and the ground when running cable could be sending a signal when you put your car in the "run" position (either digitally with the EASYGUARD or by just turning the lock), in which case a thief could still be able to lockpick your car, turn the key to run, and bypass your transponder and steal it.​

This method is slightly more unsafe, since now, what you need to do to steal the car is: lockpick the lock, find the bypass box, give the bypass a ground, turn the lockpicked key cylinder and the car would effectively start. Still, for my liking, it is safe enough for me to want to compromise to install this mod. Either way, you still would not need to have a spare key buried inside your dash, which I like.​

In the future (whenever I get the chance), I am going to install an EASYGUARD EC002 and try to pair it with these programmable transponders and post the results. This post is just for people like me, that want to do this mod, but want it to be the safest it can. I am sorry for the length of the post, but I just want to relay all my research to anyone who is interested so they don't have to go through the rabbit hole like I did. It seems like these immobilizer systems have a fair amount of difficulties to overcome! Just want to relay my research to anyone who is interested!

Again, I still think the guys here who did it by just having spares in your car at all times is still a good idea, I just think it is a matter of personal preference and how much safety you are willing to compromise and how much time and money you are willing to spend on this mod.

Disclaimer: None of the pictures are used are mine/vehicle specific. Some of the pictures were taken from the write-up guide.

If anyone can correct me on any of the information I provided, please do so! I plan on doing this in the summertime when I don't freeze to death outside so any information you guys want to provide will always be greatly appreciated!

Out of curiosity, how are your units holding up if you did it? Still going strong? Let me know as I am very interested!

 

Mine is still working like it was factory installed and I highly recommend it. As for the key in the ignition, you can break in and turn it but the truck will not crank. The ignition is disconnected and the key merely unlocks the steering wheel. Hope this helps or saves you some trouble.

 

Oh right! Because the ignition wires are cut and wired to the EASYGUARD right? I didn't think of that. But then that means that you can't use the actual keys anymore if you don't have the easyguard key right? I might attempt it with the programmable bypass but I might give up, I can't get the shear bolts from the steering column lock off

 

Just wondering if anyone other than @SoFarKingFast has done a gen 2.5. I got all the way to the end and push button didn't light up or work and neither did the locks. I tested voltage and ground and it was there ‍

 

@Skyjay did you ever figure it out. I have a 15 tundra that i want to install this in but im not 100% confident in my electrical skills. lol