How to disable dash tweeters?

If I un-plug my dash tweeters will a full non-filtered signal be sent to the door speakers wire? Tried searching, but can't find a straight answer. My system is non-JBL, I am installing components in the doors so need a full range signal, I have an aftermarket head unit and trying to avoid running new wires for now at least, thanks.

 

What years yoir truck?

 

Look under your passenger seat for a stock amplifier. If you're goin with a different head unit are you ising an amplifier?

Sime people have reported their non jbl system had a stock amplifier. Mine didnt.

 

Edit:
I'm referring to 2014 and ^ non-JBL.

Are you running an aftermarket amp?
Or are you running the aftermarket HU signal thru the crappy OEM under seat amp then to the doors?

You should be using RCA cables from the HU to an aftermarket amp.
Or using a speaker level input amp.
You need to ditch the OEM amp.

I know the OEM wiring has the dash speakers straight from the Entune HU.
I know the 6X9 front door speakers on a non-JBL have a mid and low signal.
So I'm guessing it is the OEM amp that separates the signal and takes the highs out.

When I installed my aftermarket HU, Focal components in the front doors, Focal coaxials in the rear doors, and 5 channel amp, I disconnected all of my dash speakers.

Hopefully someone with more knowledge than I have (it wouldn't take much) will chime in.

Welcome to the forum..

 

Very important question...

 

Yes I have a 2007, no stock amp, Alpine head unit puts out plenty for now - I am running high sensitivity 94db components.

 

when I re-did mine with new speakers I just ran new wires and have the filters under the driver seat so it goes straight to the new amp. I can always change the components later instead of having the filters hidden somewhere in the door or panels.

mids in doors, tweeters in dash: both wires going back to filter underneath seat and output to amplifier

 

Thanks, its a 2007, I just put new carpet in the truck and I did not see any amp anywhere - though its not impossible as I wasn't looking for one, but really don't think so.

 

I say do it right and run new wires.

 

I know, I know, just trying to be lazy. I just bought some 16-gauge speaker wire, so probably do that... Have my sail panels cut for the tweeters so just really want to cut that dash speaker system out of the loop completely.

 

yeah so best bet is to run your own wires so you know what you are filtering or not. When I replaced my HU and added amp I just discarded all toyota audio harness. It's easier to troubleshoot issues and you are not piggy backing on factory harness. Just leave it alone and run your own wires so when you will want to upgrade in the future, the hard work is already done.

 

Yes I completely agree with what your saying, it would definitely help for troubleshooting to have your own wires good point. I guess I'll take the time and do it right haha, thanks.

 

The non jbl could still have an amp under the driver's seat, non jbl without amp have the front and dash speakers on the same wire single signal 4 ohm speakers in parallel with a bass blocker on the dash speakers. The split junction is about 6" from the dash speakers. There's nothing blocking the highs, they are one way cheapest speakers known to man..if you are not getting any highs, it could be that your unit might not produce enough power for the speakers, it's probably doing 22watts rms to run a 200watt speaker.

 

There is no amplifier under the seat, I just replaced the entire carpet so had the entire interior completely stripped to metal and there are no amps.

I am running low RMS 60-max components that are high sensitivity - my Alpine powers them very nice along with new rear 6.5's, could add an Alpine power pack amplifier in future, but really not sure it would help.

Yes, I figured out the tweeter wiring today, just cut the wires right before the tweeter like your pic of the harness.

 

The door speaker probably has an inductor mounted to it that filters the highs. And/Or the dash speaker will a capacitor mounted on it.

The wires going to the door speakers are carrying a full range signal, it will be that actual speaker that will have a filter on it.

 

Thanks, yes figured this out today - the dash speaker has a filter mounted on it - then the wires to it and the door are full range, which is actually the same way my new JL C1 6x9 components work - they are sending a full range signal to the 6x9 and just an inline filter for the tweeter rather than a real crossover... not sure I like that, but the better component 6x9's go too deep to fit unfortunately...

 

Does anyone know any hacks for how to fit another 1/2"-3/4" of 6x9 speaker depth? My JL's are already touching the window frame (they are spec'd at 2 3/4" mounting depth) and I'm using standard 1" mounting adapter brackets; if I put a spacer the the woofer will be driven into the sharp edge of the door's speaker grille - that 6x9 shaped edge. Do guys dremel the door panel or anything like that? Any other options?

I have a much nicer 6x9 component set with a real crossover that I initially bought and would rather run, but the woofer goes 1/2-3/4" too deep to fit unfortunately.

 

you can try to dremel but it's pretty tight with 6x9 adapters. if it's not the door, the speaker magnet is gonna touch the window glass behind. lower the window all the way down, not much space to work with imo.

 

If you have a router and a flush cut bit then you can make your own.

My speakers mounting depth is 2.95". I used some clear acrylic and was able to get the right depth. But I'd think there are some adapters on Amazon that should work of your speakers. Just finding the specs of the adapter would be the hard part.

 

Well thats pretty close, the top mount spec is 3 1/8 for these speakers. Yes, I've seen some 1/2" spacers for 6x9s I could try, but by adding the acrylic and pushing the woofer outwards you didn't run into issues with the edge of the woofer cone pressing against the door panel grille?

 

Yeah, I would say my adapters/spacers are as slose to the speaker grills as possible without them interfering. Admittedly, I kinda just crossed my fingers and hoped I got it right. I wish I could remember how thick the final spacing was.

Now that I'm thinking about it, I have 6.5" round speakers. That let me have a little play on where I cut the mounting hole. A 6x9 won't let you do that.

Ehh, I'd get some MDF and some quarter inch ply and see what happens..lol

Oh yeah, plastic cutting boards that are kinda thick work well for custom fabrication too.

 

I used different bolts, however, the magnets sits on the window guide, is not hurting anything.