I want to change my own oil

After crawling under my truck today after a recent oil change from the dealer, I noticed that they splashed oil everywhere. They also left out three screws that hold the plastic piece of the bumper to the skid plate. It was obvious they didn’t care what they were doing. This worries me as I hope they did not over tighten everything. I have watched a few YouTube videos on how to change the oil in our trucks. Seems pretty easy. My first question is, how tight should I tighten the drain plug and also the filter housing. Should I lube the new o’ring with the oil also? And what oil filter wrench do y’all recommend as well as filter and oil? I’ve always ran full synthetic in my trucks. Usually Rotella T6. Is this still a good choice for our trucks? What oil weight is recommended as well? And I do believe the owners manual states 8.5 quarts is what it holds. Also, will this be more cost effective in the long run or, does it cost about the same to have a jiffy lube do it. Thank you

 

There is a cap socket available on Amazon that you need for the filter housing. Only ten bucks or so

Other than that it is very simple. Pull skid plate, drain oil, drain filter housing, then unscrew filter housing. Simple and you’ll be a better human for doing so

 

Thank you for the tips. I’ll go check out Amazon

 

Man card much?

 

I've been happy with

$85 Airpower America FloTool 5060TSMI Topsider Extractor Multi-Purpose Vacuum Oil Change Pump for 4-Cycle Engine, ATV, Boat, Large Vehicle, 8-Quart, Blue

Topsider oil extractor. I'be been using it for 3 1/2 years now. Less mess and most of the time I do not have to crawl under the vehicle. Until the 5.7 oil filter replacement. Now if someone can do a relocation kit that will make my oil changes more simpler.

 

I never even knew that tool was a thing.

I used to do it a long time ago but decided to let the dealer or pennzoil do it. Recently I have had some certain circumstances come up in my life that any extra dollar I can save, helps.

 

I’ve got one of these. The drain is nice

$55 Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench and Drain Tool Set for Toyota & Lexus 2.0L - 5.7L Engines With Cartridge Style Oil Filter Systems

https://smile.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools-Filter-Wrench-Toyota/dp/B078RJ2L25

 

That is the tool I was lookin at shellshock.

 

I use the MotivX wrench and drain tool as well. I run 0W-20 Toyota oil but many here run Mobil1.

$30 04152-YZZA4 Replaceable Oil Filter Element 1/2 Case (QTY 5)

04152-YZZA4 is the Toyota filter part number. Filters are available on Amazon but I get mine from the dealer and they always give me a drain plug gasket. You'll want to change the drain plug gasket at each oil change. Something else to consider is changing the plastic filter housing out for the aluminum one. As far as torque specs... 30 ft/lbs on the oil pan drain plug, 18 ft/lbs on the filter housing, 9 ft/lbs on the housing drain plug, 21 ft/lbs on the skid plate bolts and 48 in/lbs on the three screws the dealer forgot to put back in.

 

invaluable info, thank you much

 

X2, i have to agree

 

same torque specs i use. i do run 0W-20 mobil1.

call me a cock-eyed optimist, but i do not change the drain plug gasket. i do change the filter housing, and filter plug gaskets though. they're included with the OEM filter.

i may get flamed for this, but i do not use any of the fumoto plugs, e-z drains, whatever you want to call em.

remove drain plug, let drain for 15 minutes. replace drain plug w/ torque specs above = done.

just dont like the idea of any road debris hanging up on the lever and draining my oil pan. maybe i am paranoid.

again, i may get flamed, but any 0W-20 oil from a reputable company should do just fine. i do use OEM filters, and buy several at a time; they're a couple of bucks each.

additionally, i've kept the "plastic" filter housing... no issues, 4 oil changes. some members here prefer the aluminum replacement.

i do change every 5k... i cannot EVER see myself going 10k like OM suggests for "normal" conditions.

oil is VERY DARK after 5K

do it yourself, know it's done right, drive it one million miles.

 

You should go back to the dealer and tell the service manager what happened.

 

I’ve considered this. I’m not entirely sure what I’d get out of it.

 

Been changing my oil since I was old enough to DRIVE !!

Did my first change on my 18’ @ 2500k just to get out any “break-in” debris etc and get in my choice of oil ASAP
MOBIL 1 0w20
Aluminum housing
Motivx wrench/ drain tool/ hose
Fumoto valve- ( first time using this product-
Also skid plate will protect from debris)

Will change oil every 5k -
( 10k is crazy to me )
Also rotate tires at every oil change
Air filter & cabin filter every 10k
(some say too soon)

Oil pump - WTF !!
Never herd of such a thing
Talk about MAN card !!

JM2C- you do you !!

 

Check your owners manual for the correct amount of oil. My '07 Tundra with the 5.7 called for 7.5 quarts and my '17 5.7 calls for 7.9.

 

You may want to consider this. https://jowettperformance.com/products/coming-soon-billet-oil-cap-for-filter

Currently back-ordered, but should be ready for your next change. I like the one piece design.

 

The Motivx kit is great. Also purchased the oem metal cap and a fumoto, got the locking clip for it so I'm not too worried about it. Went super easy thanks to all the great tips on this forum.

 

Don't blame you OP @Rockanock ! Oil changes are a gateway drug to servicing your brakes, 4x4 (diffs/xfer case), power-steering, coolant, ujoints........!

I started using an

$70 EWK 6.5L Pneumatic/Manual Oil Extractor, Oil Change Pump for Automotive Fluids Vacuum Evacuation, Fluid Extractor Pump Tool

EWK extractor last year ("only" holds ~ 6qts so you have to stop mid-way since ours hold ~8qts). It will suck out every lost drop; skeptical at 1st, I pulled the drain plug...not a drop came out. Very versatile tool.

 

Awesome deal! I may have to check out these extractors.

does anyone have a link to metal OEM filter cap metal always makes me feel better than plastic

 

$23 Toyota Genuine Parts - Cap Assy, Oil Filter (15620-31060)

Genuine Toyota 15620-31060 Oil Filter Cap Assembly

 

Just funning ya. I change my oil on vehicles that I don't want monkeys screwing around under it.

 

Always cheaper to do it yourself. Filter costs $4 and I recently bought 6 5qt jugs of Valvoline 0w20 for $11 per 5qt jug. So it's going to cost me less than $20 to change oil.

 

Also, someone told me you can get jug of Mobil 1 at Walmart much cheaper than the parts store. Something like low $20 range.

 

You can if you catch it on sale. Most of the time it hovers around $24-25. Cheapest I've found it was $19.

 

Just make sure any jug you purchase at wally world is properly sealed. And any filter is the proper one in the box. I've heard of folks returning used oil and getting a refund. Even water in the jug, then it goes back on the shelf. And seen first hand a few owners coming into my garage having paid for a premium filter to see a supertech stuffed in the box.

Inspect your parts before leaving the aisle/store.

 

THIS. I always look at what's in the box and look for missing pieces in whatever I buy from there.

 

That’s where I get it. Usually right around $24-$25. This last time I picked up some Pennzoil 0- 20 for $22. a 5 quart jug.

 

Whoever does that deserves a punch in the mouth. Someone else is always out there trying to screw someone else over.

 

Well nothing for what happened but it's always good to make them aware of poor service like that for the future.