Correct Spicer Carrier Bearing for 1st gen tundra EXACT TOYOTA OEM

Amazon has these for $66...but it says it doesn't fit my truck....

 

Yes, I suspect Amazon is wrong....I emailed Spicer to get their part # for the Tundra...I will report back when I hear from them.

 

Hi all,

long time Gen 1 owner, first time poster here. Needing to replace my center carrier bearing on my 4wd access cab and almost pulled the trigger on the Timken bearing. Did a little more digging and found this thread and several others steering me towards the Spicer as it was the OEM supplied and the preferred replacement. See below info I found while attempting to buy the

$62 Spicer 5002334 Center Bearing

Spicer 5002334. My truck's bearing has the Toyota 37235-35030 stamped on it. Hope this helps.


Found this on Amazon form poster "JCW":


This is a nice bearing. Don't waste your money on cheaper ones. They don't last.
The 5002334 is made by Spicer and is exactly the same as the Toyota. Even the markings are the same.
Here is some info on this and the Spicer 5002007.
I bought the 5002334 and the 5002007. Both made by Spicer (Dana).
I actually took some measurements to compare them.
They are the same bearing except the 5002007 has seals in both ends. The drive shaft and flange have ground journals for the seals. I assume Toyota wanted to seal the bearing on the 4WD vehicles.
The 5002334 does not have any seals. I guess that’s why the 5002334 will work in the 4X4. There's just clearance around the journals. You just don't get the bearing protection.
Toyota p/n 37230-0K040 is molded into the rubber on the 5002334.
Toyota p/n 37235-35030 is molded into the rubber on the 5002007. It is also the same as 37230-34030 and I believe 37230-0K030.

 

Nice info!

 

Has anyone actually had a destroyed carrier bearing cause problems?

Because mine was almost completely missing the rubber. I had a driveline vibration at the time, which I thought was the bearing, but replacing it did nothing. It was a U-joint.

 

Maybe the bad carrier bearing (wobbly/loose/vibration) caused your u-joint problem?

 

No, it had lost all its grease from lack of maintenance and rusted the needle bearings.

 

On our first gens do you have to disassemble any u-joints to remove the carrier bearing from the drive shaft? I've seen a video of a guy doing a 3rd gen and he did, but I can't find any conclusive info on a first gen.

 

No. You will have to split the mating surfaces open between the Double Cardán and the Carrier yoke/spline thingy. Remove the 4 (14mm? Nuts) and split.

I rigged up 3 rubber bungies to hold the rear shaft up (heavy) and out of the way prior to splitting.

Remove the carrier bolts and drop that shorter half of the front portion shaft, but support it with bungies also. Don’t allow it to drop as it will put tension on the transmission seal and you may develop a leak from it.

Mark all your length of shaft so if things get confusing you will be able to match up your marks. The shaft is weigh balanced and a wrong put back will result in bad vibes.

 

Gotcha thanks for the tips! How hard was it to get the old bearing off and new one on?

 

It required persuasion. I used a small long chisel and baby sledge hammer on the front side of the bearing ring hitting towards the rear of the truck to remove it off the splines of the front shaft. It was frozen on from 16 years of use.

I just tapped around the perimeter (after bearing was re-mounted after cracking) and it loosened finally. I did this about 1.5 years ago so its slightly foggy, but you get the idea. Clean and re-lube the splines with extreme pressure grease. Block off your wheels so the truck doesn’t roll over you.

 

Update:

I replaced my carrier bearing with the Spicer replacement that i purchased on Amazon for $65. It was the EXACT same one that came with the truck. Same numbers stamped on the rubber, even had Toyota stamped on the other side. Replacement was easy:
I marked the drive shaft at all connections to make sure I lined it back up the same way it came off to prevent balance issues.
I unbolted the drive shaft at the transmission (4 bolts) and at the Carden joint just behind the carrier bearing.
I supported the remaining portion of the driveshaft (the part still bolted to the rear diff) on a jack stand.
Unbolt the carrier bearing from the drive shaft on a benck (one center bolt).
The old bearing came right off, no muss no fuss.
clean the mounting surface for the new bearing, reverse removal steps using the existing washer that came off. Went back on with no problems.
There are several good videos on Youtube that demonstrate replacement.

I have noticed that the accel and decel shudder I used to feel is gone.

 

I was getting a vibration through the floor of the cab at 50-65mph.

I got the tires balanced and the problem was still there.
I suspected the carrier bearing so I pulled the driveshaft, replaced the bearing and got the driveshaft balanced... now no more vibration.

 

I had a little chirping birdy that I couldn't find for nothing. I replaced the belt, greased the idler pulley, etc, but still went chirp chirp chirping down the road.
I also had a vibration that was a bit concerning, so I searched and found this thread. I ordered the carrier bearing, replaced the rear ujoint, and whammo! The bird stopped chirping and my truck is smooth as butter now.

 

I really wish I had found this part before paying double for the "OEM" version. Oh well.

 

Same here. I think I shilled out $175 for mine via online Toyota shop. Just looked and the same place is now $195! Stealer wants $240!

This bearing sourcing discovery was when I realized to go direct when shopping. Denso for Denso. Spicer for Bearings. Aisin for Gaskets/Pumps, Wells for switches, Hitachi for MAF Sensor, etc.

 

Just ordered one. Why not.

 

Is this thread not in the info dump page? @Pinay

 

Doesn’t appear to be. I’ll add it.

 

So i can go ahead and order either bearing for my 4x4 01?

 

Can anyone confirm which part number is for an ‘06 DC 2WD?

Anyone know the U-Joint part number off hand?

Getting a pop sound and can’t seem to find it, going to start here since it has 150K miles anyway.

 

Yea this thread is super helpful, but Amazon says it doesnt fit my truck. And they dont seem to carry the 5002007. And everywhere online says that its a tacoma bearing, not tundra

 

I’m in the same boat as you. 5002007 is sealed, id assume that’s what’s called for on a 2WD since everything else is sealed?

 

I hear that the sealed is for 4x4s. I went ahead and ordered the 5002334. Fuck it haha

 

I wish I knew this a week ago. I think we should start a thread with just part #'s

 

I always try to double and triple cross reference my parts by using the stealership website, an online Toyota parts store, and whomever is selling the OEM part at the best price.

For instance: My recent MAF Sensor. Its made by Hitachi, but branded Toyota. The part number is a Toyota and Hitachi has an individual part number of their own. Big Gurll confirms the fitment via Hitachi Store with my Vehicle Year/Type/Make.

Stealer wants $200+

Online Toy Store $150+

Big Gurrl $53

You know its real when Hitachi scratches off the Toyota Stamp for legal purposes.

 

So guys am i good with the 5002334?

 

We all do some sort of astrological, mathematical and philosophical equation to hunt down quality oem parts for walmart prices. But wouldn't it be so much easier if you just open 1 thread and there is all the info you need to grab that maf? As well as other options for that maf?

 

Sure would. Thing is: I still do a double and triple cross reference even with someone here telling me the part number. In the end, its my responsibility when I buy it.

Some projects require going to the Stealer and getting bolts/seals etc even when all the homework in the world is done upfront. This is where fortitude takes over.

I’ve been working on finding Knock Sensors. My truck takes 2. The source is Matsushita. I can’t find a reliable second cross reference. The Seller Big Gurrl is confirming, but there is no second and third confirmation Via Toyota to make my finger hairs tingle. Stealer wants $250! Say what?