What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Remind me tonight so I remember to do
It. I’ll get it off the FSM when I’m home

 

This post should be titled "What should I do to my Tundra today (or rather the next few weeks)?" I'm looking for a little advice, here is the background:

2006 DC TRD 4x4 Tundra with 90K miles. I purchased it at last January with 84K miles. It was a one owner, well cared for, completely stock and near as I can tell lightly used, truck. After getting a full-tuneup and having the TB/WP done last spring, I've been contemplating some modification and pulled the trigger on Black Friday for the following parts related to the front-end:

255/80r17 Falken AT3Ws
Bilstein 6112/5160 combo set at 2 inches in the front
Steering Rack Bushings
Ended up with a pair of Freedom Upper Control arms for trucks with 2-4 inches of lift

While I think I'm skilled enough to this work, I've been without significant tools or a garage for the better part of the last decade (I hope to rectify both these in the coming year, but it's not a 100% given), but for the moment I'm dependent on a trusted shop to install the above items for me. The question I have is, since they will already be in there, should I have them replace any other front-end items with the knowledge, that the current parts have 90K miles on them (the LBJs only have 75K on them, since they were replaced at 15K miles for the recall)? not cheap, since I will go OEM on the parts, but it seems like the labor involved would mostly be saved considering the other things that are being replaced in the front end? These were the things I was thinking:

LBJs
LCAs (Bushings are $66, but again, much more labor then just replacing the whole LCA, so just planning to go with the whole LCA)
Inner/Outer Tie Rods

Anything else that should be added to that list?

It's not cheap, but I'm anticipating increased wear rates with the suspension changes. Would I be throwing money away doing this or are these things likely to need replacement sooner rather than later noting the mileage, modifications and assuming it get's put to use as intended given the suspension changes? I feel like labor difference will be minimal (savings paying for the parts?) but if I have to have all this done in the next year or two (10-20K miles) and I'm not able to do it, it's gonna be a big labor charge to go along with the parts. What say the peanut gallery? Especially interested in your opinion @empty_lord since you probably see more of these items than anyone else and can speak to the longevity of said OEM parts on an until now lightly used truck like mine.

 

@speedtre lbjs and maybe outside tie rod ends would be a good call.

If the shop loosens your lower arm bolts and cycles the suspension, then snug it up on the ground at the new height setting it will help keep your bushings from going out. If those bushings are in good shape I would leave them alone, OEM ones are expensive and aftermarket can be low quality. Plus this dives into possible cam bolt replacement depending on the condition of yours.

 

I think I found it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-Car-St...iser-Tacoma-4Runner-Tundra-Hilux/283660821984

Oh and what did I do to my 1st gen today? Just decided to spend some Christmas money on parts to do retrofit projectors. It's really bugging me that the damn akkons headlight won't adjust very well. My options were get another set of housings and hope the reflector is as good as the OEMs were or spend that money on retrofits... I took the path that I think has more money, less risk, and more effort involved. We'll see.

 

Sorry, I didn't make it clear (so I modified my post), I was thinking of replacing the whole LCAs and not just the bushings, because the cost difference is not that huge (considering increased labor for bushing replacement) and I assumed LCA would come with new cam bolts...or am I wrong there?

 

@speedtre

All that suspension work seems like torture to me. Hahaha

I’d save up and do everything at once using a suspension shop. Your LBJs should be ok with those miles since being replaced with the recalled improvements.

My LCA’s where replaced with new OEM as the bushings were shot and it made economical sense to buy new than press in new bushings (expensive!). Its expensive either way, but do all your list at once and be done with it versus piece meal.

 

Yeah when I retrofit I’m not going to get the biggest projectors that will fit, and have to cut the reflector bowl. That was a nightmare, and still not complete! I know there is an option that will basically bolt into the bulb hole, I will definitely go that route. Any demon eyes or switchbacks or rbg action? The guys on the headlight forum get sick with their installs and phone controlling apps

 

The cam bolts were seized on mine. It was gnarly, but all was being done at once.

A reminder: I took truck in 2.5 years ago for new shocks. The said they could not align the truck properly once discovering the cam bolts were seized on truck when on the rack. I told them to forget about the shocks plan and let me reassess. Waited a year and brought it back with grander plans of a front rebuild once the money was accounted for and a reinvestment decision was made. Was done at 4WD place. Nice work they did.

 

Lower ball joints aren’t a bad idea, labor on those with shocks being replaced should be cheap. Especially with lower control arms. Go with Napa arms, they’re cheaper and seem to hold up fine vs the Toyota overpriced ones. Go oem with the ball joints and get 8 new bolts for them, there’s the risk of them breaking if reused.
Inner tie rods I wouldn’t worry about unless there’s noticeable play same for the outer tie rods.

oh do get new cam bolts (expensive) and make sure they coat the entire bolt and sleeve in anti seize, you’ll thank me later

 

Since I’ve decided to go black in the interior, the tundra will be getting a newer 4runner steering wheel and air bag.

 

Nah nothing crazy. I just went super moderate for my first time. I ordered the cheapo nilight 2.5" and some well reviewed 35w 5000k bulbs. Both had great reviews and set me back something like $75. If I really like them I'll probably upgrade something or other. I figure I'll go easy the first time and try not to do my regular crank it to 11 thing.

 

I've thought about an upgrade like that also. I was a little worried about the controls, but a guy like you should be able to figure that out no problem.

 

Toyota controls are done by 3 wires.
Now if I want to use a 2016 wheel I have to add one wire. But chances are I’ll use a 2012 wheel that uses the 3 wires. It’ll give me the phone controls and the stock tundra controls with no extra wiring.

that one extra wire will add a few more buttons to make radio usage a little easier, but I may not go that route, we will see.

 

Ok, so the cam bolts do not come with the LCAs then...go it, will add to the list.

I just looked these up...Toyota one is cheaper by a dollar...kinda funny. I wouldn't have thought that.

$208
https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-lower-control-arm-4806834040/?c=Zz1mcm9udC1zdXNwZW5zaW9uJnM9ZnJvbnQtc3VzcGVuc2lvbiZpPTg0MzEyNjA1JnI9MTEmYT10b3lvdGEmbz10dW5kcmEmeT0yMDA2JnQ9c3I1JmU9NC03bC12OC1nYXM=

$209
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCQ...m+-+Front+Susp&keywordInput=lower+control+arm

 

Check if the Toyota one comes with bushings. When I did my front end they were separate.

 

My 2 cents. If you've got a set of jack stands and a decent tool set the whole deal shouldn't take more than a day. I picked a nice day and had my coilovers installed in the driveway in about 3 hours, rack bushings took 1-1.5 on another day, and the rear shocks took about 45 minutes most of that cursing at the top bolt a ratcheting box wrench is the tool of choice there.

I wouldn't worry about the LBJ/tie rods if there isn't any play currently.

 

I keep forgetting I get the discount at Napa. I did t realise they were as much as oem oops.
Yea go oem for that I guess

 

I think most of your question has already been answered by the pros but I agree. When I had the shop do mine, I did the LBJ's, outer tie rods, steering rack bushings, and the new SPC UCA's all at once. The only suspension related part I haven't done yet is the lower control arms.

If you're planning to keep the truck a long time(which I think you are) then I think it's smart to go ahead and have them do this while they are in there. I think of it as level setting. Now you know most of the front end suspension is good for another 75K miles or more. I regret pussying out on mine and paying a shop to do it. Those upper ball joints were a total bitch but had I kept reading and asking for help I'm confident I could have finished the job. Not having a garage is a game changer though. I can understand why you'd want to take it to a shop. That being said, to install the Icon's, LBJ's, SPC UCA's with upper ball joints, outer tie rods, and steering rack bushings, they only charged me $750. Which wasn't that bad for the amount of work they did. Shop around for a good price and you may come out alright.

 

The 4WD suspension place used after market cams bolts on mine as, according to them ‘they will get the alignment better and where it needs to be’. They were way less in cost, as well. A win/win!

 

2 new LBJ’s OEM
2 new LCA’s OEM
All new cams bolts OE
4 new Billy Bobs 5100
2 new CV axles
2 new rotors/pads
New front sway bar links
Did they replace my steering rack bushings?
High dolla alignment
Parts and Labor $3400 (split evenly labor and parts)

 

Is the airbag as simple as two wires?

 

Don’t have to mess with anything on. That. 05-06 have the style airbag still used today, just get the bag and plug it in

 

I have the axle tool press thingy if you wanna try it yourself. Heres a pic of pressed too far.




Heres the tool thingy.

 

1. Uh oh.
   
   I think my inner CV boots are toast...
   
   
   
   
   
   
2. 
   
   Pertty

 

Yup, those are done. You gonna swap boots or the whole axle?

Isn't there a better boot?

 

Well if I can disassemble a CV axle then most people probably can. If you slide the smaller part of the boot onto the axle further it might keep them from rubbing of they do indeed rub when you get new boots. The bellows on mine rubbed each other constantly before I did that mod and from what I read that's the recipe for a short life of a CV boot.

 

Supposedly sdhq makes a better/ different boot, I will probably order a set soon

 

That's the set I purchased. Time will tell, but so far so good.

 

Yeah but Chris said they were a total PITA to install. Better off just buying new CV's.

 

@because_wumbo-truck

Did you end up ordering all 4 skids?

What is this?