Help with this

Hey guys new to the forums I need help with something and wondering if you guys can help me out I’ve been dealing with my slip yolk leaking tranny fluid from the Welch plug for a while now I tried jb welding it and it stopped it just a little bit I’ve been trying to find a new yolk but can’t quite figure out where to get one or any ideas on other things I can try to stop the leak.. I’m just tired of checking the atf 24/7 and honesty think I’m doing it wrong because the fluid level is never the same it’s full one day and low the other I let it idle up to temp put the parking brake on and shift through the gears then check I never get a steady reading... am I doing it wrong? Thanks for the help guys- 04 ac 2wd

 

Maybe I'm wrong here, but I don't see how. The slip yoke is park of the rear drive shaft. How would this be leaking tranmission fluid?

I googled "Welch plug" and found this is another term for freeze plug(learn something new here every day) Assuming you're actually talking about the block, you may be losing coolant, not ATF. Both can be pink/red so they might look similar.

Can you post some pictures? Someone smarter than me should be able to help.

 

I had an 04 tundra that I sold when I picked up mt 06. My 04 had the leak you are talking about. I took the yoke cleaned the inside of the tube with brake clean then carb cleaner. Then I cleaned the "outside" of the yoke around the freeze plug. I let it dry, then mixed up the JB and put it inside the tube, propped the tube in upright position and let set up. Then I put JB on the outside part of the plug. I had the truck for a year and half after and it never leaked.

Another, and perhaps better option would be to take it and have a welder run a bead around the plug.

Picking one up from a bone yard might be best.

 

When I installed welch plugs I would make sure everything was clean and oil free and then run a bead of RTV on the recess shoulder where the plug sits. When you seat the plug just tap it until it's flat. If you hit it until it starts concaving it can leak. Granted, I've never had to replace one in a Toyota yoke but I've done many in other applications. Unless there is a defect in the yoke it should be sealable.

 

Also ATF expands quite a bit when it's hot. If you're checking it one day after an hours freeway run and the next just idling in the driveway you will get 2 different readings.

Idling in the driveway doesn't get ATF up to temp so you will want to make sure it's at the cold full mark after a good freeway run it will be at operating temp so you will want it halfway between the full hot marks. You don't want it all the way to the top of the full range because if you ran it hard towing or hauling weight it will expand further to the full hot range. Anyway, that's how I maintain my tranny fluid level. Others will have different info for you.

 

Welcome from NY, Noah.

 

Is it ok to check it while it’s cold or do you have to check it hot

 

So if the engine is idling and the engine temp is at its normal heated operation temp on the gauge wouldn’t the transmission lines running through the radiator bring the transmission fluid up to temp?

These Hot fluid hashes/levels on our trucks are almost impossible to split the difference on. Too many variables when checking it hot. Too many variables when following directions per spec which omits things. Just says check hot. Well if its just idling the juice stays in the pan. If you run it, the juice is sucked up into the transmission. Check it too soon afterwards and its false reading. Wait to long and all the juice has dropped.

The expansion thing is a big factor as well. And the big snafu is the 2.1 quart ‘drain and fill’ Toy Specification which is wrong. Should be 5+/- quarts.

Only way I can see perfection is to run it full at top hash in winter months and then drain a half quart less for the summer hot months to account for expansion.

 

how long or far would I have to drive to get it up to temp it’s not like we have trans temp gauges on our trucks.

 

I would say until the temp gauge is at its normal position. The transfluid gets run through a heat exchanger inside the radiator and so should be the same temp about.