What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Not all LEDs look the same even with the "same" color temp though. These are 5000k but the lumen output makes a difference too.

 

True.

And not all bulbs put out the lumens they are rated when LED which is why I went with the Sylvanias in the areas I did. I believe their product numbers over the other no name brands even though I’ve never had no name bulb problem. I have no lumen tester except for the eyes.

Per incandescents, the older bulb filaments reduce in lumens as they wear, accumulate debris on coils, etc.

 

Not sure if my other rear side parking brake cable is like this pictured drivers side that recently had the bearing installed. This may very well be why my parking brake isn’t self adjusting due to it not running under that lip. Not sure as the parking brake issue has gone on for much longer than this bearing service (month and a half ago). Disappointing to see this as I trust others to do as I would to them. Maybe an oversight on my mechanics behalf? He ain’t a rookie. The new bearing seal failing torks me a bit too. @Aerindel

 

Waxed it and then read about the PCV valve, so now that’s on order. I checked mine and it’s threaded so I’m assuming it should be even easier and nothing to worry about like the grommet versions on the earlier models?

 

Tell me you have a build thread in the works. I love your truck!

 

Good to know, Ill get this knocked out then. Need to search for a part number now.

Good deal, thank you. Got to find the part number and then I’ll get it ordered. Seems like the PCV and breather are cheap insurance.

 

‘Top end’ makes even more sense to me as the discussion was about torque and power of the engine.

 

Your paint looks really good. Well done.

I think your threaded PCV will still rest in a grommet.

 

Threaded pvc uses threads, no need for a grommet. The new one even has thread sealant pre applied in the package

 

Doh! Makes sense. I was thinking it still needed a gasket of some sort to seal it, but I see now that it doesn't. That lack of grommet means he's got a lot less to worry about when making the swap. 5 minute job now

 

It's mainly to eliminate the cap as a failure point. If it gets stuck it'll push diff juice out the axle tubes and into the rear brakes. Call it preventive maintenance.

 

Probably. It's a cheapo I bought two years ago. But, trucks not on so who knows.

 

^^^^^This^^^^^ Eddy the owner of SOS had a first gen tundra and made some one off stuff for himself for it. Sadly he didn't make any templates or keep any measurements. This is also when he was in his rented one car garage building stuff with an angle grinder, welder, and measuring tape. I'll try and dig up the pictures.

I would buy this in a heartbeat for my '05.[/QUOTE]
The problem with doing a streamline for the 1st gen is there is no real clean area to cut the factory bumper and make it look integrated and not like the bumper was hacked.

Thanks man and we do, I am a bit biased though. Our armor is tested via the real world not just computer generated load testing. Eddy sits down with a vehicle and kinda gets an idea builds then tweaks and has people test for a bit if he's not happy it doesn't go into production until he's happy. We've had a modular besttop bedrack being tested pretty hard for 3 mo. now.

 

Definitely not intentional, but this happened to my truck today. Just driving down the road and I see my lug nuts falling off. So now I need my drum resurfaced and I’m going to hammer in some new bolts and all should be good.

 

Good info. I'll add a little to it that maybe some don't know yet. Basically, 2700K is a standard incandescent lamp. 3000K and 3500K make a good color option when replacing lamps in your house. 4100K is typical in most commercial buildings. 5000K is what's used in Walmart. Much higher than that is typically used in specific aplications.

A note about lumens: your typical 10w A19 bulb has 800 lumens, give or take. A 3000K and a 5000K will have the same lumens, but the 5000K will appear brighter due to the whiter color.

My opinion, I'd go with a 3000K or 3500K due to the redder light. It won't mess up your night vision like a whiter light would. It probably doesn't affect it much, but who knows.

 

What? How? Why? Uhhhh......

 

Just as an FYI instead of making your own LEDs, super bright LEDs already makes interior LEDS like you just did just have to match up the style. I switched a lot of mine over using theirs. Relatively in expensive and time savings.

The chevy's I know had rust issues on a lot of their parts I was a tech at a dealership and we were replacing rear brake assemblies like crazy because they would turn to rust dust. Also I've seen other trucks from up N and holes in the floor and body were common same with pretty rusty frames. I think people just jumped on Yotas shit more and they decided to man up about it.

No their frames are C channel it wasn't until a few years ago that they started switching to boxed frames and definitely not any thicker from back comparing similar models.

Here's the Point all vehicle manufacturers have their issues and weaknesses. If one were to build a vehicle that is going to last the ages across any or all different climates and hold up to non typical wear then they wouldn't meet any price points people could afford. Even though trucks are becoming outrageously expensive now.

 

There is a guy on TW that is a lighting engineer or guru of sorts he has made a bunch of good threads on there about stuff.

Ummmm drum brakes and actually self adjusting . Sorry as a mechanic this is hilarious none of them work period. In the engineers theory they work and maybe on the computer they work. But real world it's laughable that's why we recc adjustments from time to time.
But no your mechanic should of put it back correctly and if that were the case in how he treated the parking brake cable then there is a possibility that he didn't get the seal installed correctly or nicked it or something.

 

I wouldn’t run anyone’s armor but Eddy’s. And @ovrlndkull i remember that first place allllll to well!

 

I wasn't around for that shop but since meeting and getting involved with SOS it's grown leaps and bounds in the past couple of years. SOS is working at expanding into new markets and groups and it's fun to be a pretty big part of that. I am lucky/honored to be in the position I am and work with Eddy on this stuff. Re-introduction of products etc. Just so you guys know my bumpers are coming last to all other orders I put other customers above mine. My rear HC rear bumper I will of waited probably close to a year if not longer before I get mine.

There is a reason we are targeting you 1st gen guys. It's like the little bit bigger brother to the tacoma and you guys get out and use your trucks offroad more than the other generations. We still want to support them but it's a little different market.

 

I saved a copy....

 

Per the self adjusting parking brake: After many years of them not working properly and trying this past year to ‘get it right’ by ‘following the directions’ has been futile. I’ve gone to the self adjusting star via peep hole adjustment method as the one that actually works for me. This new wrinkle of the cable just occurred to me last night when studying the plan for the warranty repair.

I’ve seen that guru light guys work. Someone reposted his stuff over here a few months back. Good stuff!

 

Probably won’t ever need another bulb there ever again but good to know. This was plan ‘B’ and I had a few extras from a multi-pack left over. Its fun making things happen for ‘free’.

 

As others said do it as preventative maintenance. FYI, there's one on the rear diff, but also one on the front diff & one for the trans. Cheap insurance to keep things healthy.

 

The tundra front, trans, and T-case breathers aren't routed into the engine bay?

Yep that's the only method that ever works I always get a laugh when guys freak out that they aren't working or I bust their bubble that it never works even doing exactly what you're supposed to do.

Yeah I have to read his stuff a few times to understand some of the technical stuff but it's really good info and unbiased just lets the #s and tests show what works and what doesn't.

Nice!!! I tried making my own and soldering in LEDs on an old civic I had it was a total failure I am not that good at making them. So when I found these guys that make them it was a eureka moment for me.

 

What about PNW trucks do they get rusted to shit like the rust belt areas here on the East?

 

I got lucky on this bulb fab. Didn’t even use solder. Carved off the end tip wings, spread the wires, fed them through the OEM bulbs old prong posts and crimped the ends. The OEM base module actually helps lock every thing together even better once the prongs reinserted.

 

Picked up a really nice mint steering wheel from S54_LXTundra and decided to leather wrap it. Im really happy with how it turned out. Thanks again bud!

 

Which wrap is that? Looks good.

 

Thank you! I picked it up from ebay. Pretty inexpensive and was actually easy to install. The only negative was the thread amount included was just enough to get it done.
Look at this on eBay https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/312204357369