Rotor warping on 3rd Gen Tundras?

I had major issues on my 1st gen. Slotted Cryo rotors fixed it right up and I never had issues after that. With my '18, I've been lucky so far but if they do "go", then I'll do slotted cryo again.

One thing that helps with vehicles that have known issues with rotor warp is, when you know your brakes are hot and you come to a stoplight, give yourself about 15ft extra distance and every 10 seconds (or so), inch forward just a little bit. That way you are not heating just one spot on the rotor w/ your re-hot brake pads. Spread the heat out a bit, let the heat dissipate and you should minimize and damage.

 

I have a 2015 Limited purchased with 93k, one owner. I purchased in March 2018.

I have had 4 sets of new rotors due to warping. The first set were OEM, lasted a few months then they turned them. A few months later pulsating again, turned again. The dealership said this is due to my driving??? Said they have some people replacing everyone 5-7k miles. Yikes.

I replaced calipers, rotors and pads with NAPA Premium semi metallic and Premium rotors.

They lasted about 7k before pulsating returned, they turned them. I took them off and returned them to NAPA for new set of rotors. After about 2k these started feeling “choppy”. After reading some forums and reviews I switched to NAPA Adaptive One, Reactive One rotors and ceramic pads. Right now i have about 200 miles...so they do feel good.

I do not tow, I’m a one foot driver and I torque the lug nuts and no emergency braking. The dealership, unable to answer why it keeps happening even after having their Master Tech take it for a few days and drive it, offered to upgrade to the big brake system at cost.

I am waiting to see how these new set works out. Any suggestions?

very frustrated,

 

Yes, post #29.

Your rotors are most likely not warped. You have pad material stuck to them, which creates high/low spots and essentially variable thickness of the rotors. You could check this and verify with a dial indicator and caliper if you want to prove it to yourself.

When your rotors are hot say at a stoplight and your pads are pressed against the non-moving/hot rotor, the pad material sticks to the rotor. when let off the brake, the pad pulls away and leaves the material stuck to the rotor. this leaves high and low spots and this is what you feel when your brakes pulse.

You need to bed the brakes after install, you get them super hot from repeated hard braking over and over again, then you drive and let them cool without touching the brakes. And for a while after be careful to not press hard on the brakes when stopped, use only enough pedal to keep stopped at a intersection, etc.

https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedi..._Whitepaper_B1-Warped-Brake-Disc-8-2018_1.pdf

https://www.apcautotech.com/getmedi...1b-BRAKE-ROTOR-INSTALLATION-TIPS-rev11-12.pdf

https://www.powerstop.com/brake-pad-break-in-procedure/

https://www.phoenixfriction.com/t-bedding-in-process-for-brake-pads-and-rotors.aspx

https://alconkits.com/support/brake-pad-info/110-the-real-truth-about-warped-brake-rotors

 

My original rotors were warped to the point where even driving at lower speeds and breaking caused pretty bad shaking in my steering wheel. My dealership was cool enough to just replace em. Havent had a problem in the 15k miles since I got them switched out.

 

Has anyone actually asked for or measured runout? Or is everyone taking the mechanics word as gospel?

90% of warped rotors aren't warped rotors.

 

I’m having this issue too. Started at about 26,000 miles. Took it to the stealership and they wanted $400 to machine them (they said they were warped).

I don’t tow and generally only feel it when carrying a load and going highway speeds or coming down from the mountains.

I hear a lot of people on here swear by the Powerstops. I’m thinking of going that route.

Thoughts???

 

Mine were shot at 30k also. I never checked for runout like Jengel451 suggested, I didn't even know that was a thing. I swapped them at 40k and I've got about 25k on my new ones with no issues yet. Its just so much cheaper to swap them out as opposed to bringing it to a mechanic

 

Thanks. The last time in to the dealership I asked if they could determine if it was both front rotors or just one. They said they would run them out and let me know. They said it was both.
Other than that, not sure of anything specific or a number that would show if it was warped or just excess pad deposit.

 

Cryo treating rotors has nothing to do with preventing them from warping as you found out. It only prevents the pads from wearing them out so quick and even then its not enough of a difference to be worth the cost.

 

On my '16 I don't tow. I turned my front rotors at 17k, 35k, and replaced at 76k.

Having done a lot of track days in life I think I just brake too hard often driving it like my Z06. I haven't owned a car in the last 10 years that doesn't warp the front rotors frequently. I'm trying to brake that habit.

 

Not true, if they are done right, the molecular structure or grains changes and becomes more uniform through the material. It makes the material uniform. More often than not what folks are feeling is not even warping, they wear unevenly due to variations in density when cast. The other thing you may be feeling is pulsing, and not variations in thickness or runout. if the rotor is porous in some areas more than others, then pad material will deposit in that area and give you that pulsing feeling.

Cryo done right is the real deal. That means it has to be done long enough to work through the rotor, no flash cryo as that's just a surface treatment.

Ask the mechanic what he measured for runout at the outer edge of the rotor, anything more than .003" is a problem. Then ask him to measure rounout at the hub. Tacoma's have had a nasty tendency to have bad hub bearings that manifest as rotor pulse.

Things to think about before throwing money at things blindly.

 

I'm fairly certain this is the issue most people are having with "warped rotors". Most tire techs just zap on the lug nuts full torque one at a time resulting in a rotor (free float design) to be stuck to the hub at a slight angle and then the 4 other lug nuts are just place holders. Request hand tools and hand seat each nut progressing to a ratchet with even pressure in a star pattern!!

 

That is the BIG debate when it comes to brake-related vibration. Is it really a warped rotor or is it material transfer. Almost as hotly debated as which synthetic oil is best for my engine!

 

I got new tires recently. I asked them to please use a torque wrench and not the impact. Watched them still use the impact then hit them with the torque wrench. Half of them clicked immediately. I took the truck home (as well as my daughters who I just had tires installed at the same time) loosened everyone and re-torqued .

 

That shit is maddening. I've actually asked doods if they thought what they did was right. "it clicked" was the response. I told them to start moving up the wrench in 5 ft lb increments until the nut actually moved before clicking. 20ft lb's later I get a "oh...I didn't know that"

 

Some people are just clueless or they don’t care. Take some pride in your work. Even if you feel it’s beneath you.

 

I work with the cryo process every day, I understand what it does and what its benefits are. Preventing rotors from warping isn't one of them. 90% of the rotors aren't true to begin with, they need to be trued before you ever put them on anyway. Otherwise you're info is correct

 

As others have said warped rotors is a pain in the ass on these 3G, but can be prevented. First you need new rotors or resurface, then you need correct pads. Some types of pads work better with certain rotors. Then you need Proper torque setting with a torque wrench not some air impact. If you have wheel spacers, those can be a problem as well, need to be torqued correctly first. One of the most overlooked steps is the "Burn in". Each mfg. has their own Burnishing method. If this is not done, you will be right back at the beginning.
I never let the shop use an air impact on install. Cordless impact and Hand torqued or I do it myself.And always double check their work.

 

I can agree with that.

 

i would rather replace pads and rotors than to shorten transmission and engine life....but thats just me...

 

On my third Tundra and I only have 2k on my 2020 but my two others all had bad vibrating issues during multiple years of ownership. It was really frustrating the no 1 issue I hated about the Tundra. I always have had larger tires, not 35's but 33-34 and I wonder if the heavy E rated tires are causing the issues?

 

Im running E rated 35s Cooper STT pro, No rotor warping. Sometimes Balance needs redone. Is the vibrating during braking or at speed?

 

How many miles on your current setup? No, it was always during braking. I don't think I am hard on my brakes I guess we will see how this new truck works out.

 

My truck is 15 with 94k miles. I did the brakes front and rear about 7k mi ago (86kmi), and put the tires on about the same time. I believe the key is proper burnishing, torque sequence, method and proper torque values. Ive had warped rotors before, this is what works for me. Clowns at the tire shop, making minimum wage, fresh out of high school, have no concern for your truck and you will warp a brand new set of rotors installed if you let them use the air tools on your lug nuts and you drive it over torqed.

 

I always rotated my own tires so I don't think my issue was ever over-torqued lugs. I would get the vibration between 20-30k after a new brake job maybe it is my driving habits not sure.

 

Got over 133,000 miles and still on the original brakes and rotors with no vibration.

 

Are you on stock tire size or close to it?

 

What is difference between the rotors and pads on a TRD pro vs limited

 

What after market set did u go with on tundra?

 

Nothing they are the same on stock unless you are talking about the TRD big brake kit.