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2014 transmission maintenance question

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by Sumo91, Nov 28, 2019.

  1. Nov 28, 2019 at 7:24 PM
    #1
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 [OP] Busy with projects

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    Hey guys!! I'm loving my new to me 2014 tundra platinum! It has 173k miles on it and is due for a transmission service (last service at 80k) I've been reading thread after thread on the correct procedure for this. And have concluded I'm going to unhook the cooler line to drain 4 quarts, fill 4 quarts, etc until I replace 12 quarts, or until I the fluid looks new (I want to replace all the old fluid, not just drain 4 and add 4 as some have suggested). The question i have is about the transmission filter. Do i need to replace it? And if so, where can I buy one? I cant find much info on it. In previous trucks I've always dropped the pan and replaced the filter. I'll be using Schaeffers 204 SAT all trans fluid (really great stuff and is compatible with this transmission) just wanna get all.my ducks in a row before performing this service. I'll also be replacing the water pump, tensioner, and belt while I'm at it. Thanks for reading guys!
     
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  2. Nov 28, 2019 at 9:05 PM
    #2
    Scuba

    Scuba Sober member

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    I got my transmission filter from the dealer.
    I've heard other people were told its a non replaceable part but a filter is a filter. Just like we change our engine oil filters I'm gonna change that transmission filter regardless of what anyone says.
     
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  3. Nov 29, 2019 at 10:44 AM
    #3
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 [OP] Busy with projects

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    I called the dealership today and got some info. The guy said I dont need to change the filter unless I just want to because it is a mesh filter, not a paper element. But I did get the filter number, gasket number, and torque values for future reference

    35330-60060 - transmission filter
    35168-34020 - transmission pan gasket
    65 in lbs - transmission pan torque value

    I believe I'll just change the fluid out right now since I need to put money elsewhere in the truck, then in about 60k I'll drop the pan and replace the filter, gasket, and change the fluid again.
     
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  4. Nov 29, 2019 at 5:49 PM
    #4
    Neutron

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    I have never heard of disconnecting a cooler line to drain 4 quarts out.
    But there is a drain plug on the pan as well as a check plug.
    If you drain and remove the pan/filter and clean out the pan. You will need to run it for a while and drain and refill, run again. Maybe do this a few times
    Keep in mind the fluid wont circulate till its up to temp unless you pin back the valve on the cooler exchanger on the side of the transmission which will make it circulate even cold
     
  5. Nov 29, 2019 at 6:24 PM
    #5
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 [OP] Busy with projects

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    https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/5-7-tundra-diy-transmission-fluid-change.106946/

    This is the procedure I plan on doing to change the fluid. I ordered 3 gallons of trans fluid and have 2 extra quarts already on hand so I should have plenty to do the job. I'll keep everyone updated on how it goes. I ordered the fluid this evening along with other maintenance items for the truck.
     
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  6. Nov 29, 2019 at 6:30 PM
    #6
    Neutron

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    Very interesting, i have never heard of this procedure. I have worked for Toyota since 1998. Thought i have seen it all by now, guess not lol
     
  7. Nov 29, 2019 at 6:36 PM
    #7
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 [OP] Busy with projects

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    It seems like it will work good and replace all the old fluid with new fluid. Which is my goal. Especially since I'm changing the brand of fluid. I also used this method of changing my fluid in my old f250 7.3 with the E4OD the first time I changed the fluid in it to pump new fluid into the trans cooler and lines.
     
  8. Nov 29, 2019 at 7:02 PM
    #8
    Neutron

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    The only problem i see doing it that way is that when the fluid runs low and sucks air then the pump gears lose prime and can damage the pump. I would not let it run low, unless you are filling the fluid at the same time so it doesnt run empty.
     
  9. Nov 29, 2019 at 7:10 PM
    #9
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 [OP] Busy with projects

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    I've thought about this as well, from the link I posted, he did 4 quarts at a time. I think I'll be ok doing 4 quarts but I could just do 2 quart drain/fill intervals from the cooler line to be on the safe side. I appreciate your feedback and I'm open to any advice you have on the subject. This is my first time servicing this style transmission so itll be fun and nerve racking at the same time lol
     
  10. Nov 30, 2019 at 8:33 AM
    #10
    Chris-AR

    Chris-AR New Member

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    I've followed the tundratalk directions, pinned back the valve on the coolant exchanger, and used the transmission cooler input line to drain 2 qts at a time. Just be sure to follow the directions on how to check for proper fill levels.

    I went through about 10 qts and had nothing but clear fluid coming out at the end. I changed my pan gasket and transmission fluid filter prior to starting.

    Good luck.
     
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  11. Nov 30, 2019 at 10:21 AM
    #11
    Neutron

    Neutron Parrothead

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    I agree 2 quarts would be just fine, that way no chance of a dry pump.
    Just more time involved
     
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  12. Nov 30, 2019 at 10:56 AM
    #12
    Chris-AR

    Chris-AR New Member

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    With replacing 2 qts at a time, it didn't take much more than 90 minutes and that was with a helper (my son) to turn the engine on and off.
     
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  13. Nov 30, 2019 at 11:31 AM
    #13
    Neutron

    Neutron Parrothead

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    I am spoiled , i just use any of our flush machines at work anytime I want.
    I haven't worked on the ground in the last 10 years.
    I even get paid to do all the oil changes and rotates on my tundra, my wifes 4runner, and my daughter's rav4.
    My dealer has lifetime basic maintenance.
    Free to me and i get paid to do it not a bad deal.lol
     
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  14. Dec 1, 2019 at 12:23 PM
    #14
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 [OP] Busy with projects

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    Thanks for all the advice guys, its greatly appreciated! I'll update everyone when I get the job done
     
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  15. Dec 1, 2019 at 1:30 PM
    #15
    TTund16

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    :popcorn:
     
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  16. Dec 1, 2019 at 2:44 PM
    #16
    Ajkkane

    Ajkkane Old fart.

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    Exhaust Dirty Deeds 8”SS, some led lights, Osram headlights, Pro Stop brakes, Pop Lock, AFE dry air filter with charcoal delete.
    The filters on the Toyotas or from what I remember are a screen. They can be washed in a parts cleaning tank and reused
     
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  17. Dec 1, 2019 at 2:53 PM
    #17
    Neutron

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    Why risk a multi thousand dollar transmission over a 25 dollar part?

    They are not like the old metal screens anymore.
     
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  18. Dec 1, 2019 at 3:16 PM
    #18
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 [OP] Busy with projects

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    I agree. I ordered a new OEM gasket, filter, and filter O ring. Better safe than sorry. Gonna do it right the first time
     
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  19. Dec 1, 2019 at 3:16 PM
    #19
    TTund16

    TTund16 New Member

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    do you have to drop the pan to change the filter and then reseal & new gasket , etc.?
     
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  20. Dec 1, 2019 at 3:22 PM
    #20
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 [OP] Busy with projects

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    Yes, you have to drop the pan to change the filter. From the diagrams I've looked at, there is also an Oring on the filter, which probably needs to be changed as well. The pan gasket is re useable, but I'm going to install a new one. If I remember to take pictures, I'll do a write up on the entire process.
     
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  21. Dec 1, 2019 at 3:41 PM
    #21
    Neutron

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    Its pretty easy and straightforward to do. Years ago it was trickier because the dipstick tube was pressed into the pan so it made it messier.
    Take out each magnet and thoroughly clean the pan and each magnet before placing back into place
     
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  22. Dec 1, 2019 at 3:47 PM
    #22
    TTund16

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    So with my Tacoma (375K miles) I never changed the filter. But it's a manual transmission. Didn't know trans has a filter. lol
    I thought it's like rear diff and no filter ...

    Does the auto trans get dirtier or even more stuff to wear out (more parts) ?
     
  23. Dec 1, 2019 at 4:11 PM
    #23
    Neutron

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    Manual transmissions don't have pans or filters, just a drain and fill.
    And yes automatic transmission has fiber clutch plates and parts that can produce debris. Manuals have just gears and syncros
     
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  24. Dec 2, 2019 at 9:09 AM
    #24
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 [OP] Busy with projects

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    After more research I've found that many people have had problems with the transmission pan bolts snapping off. So I'm a little worried about that, but will have my drill handy, along with left handed drill bits and helicoils. I'm gonna never seaze all the bolts before installation to prevent this from happening in the future as well.
     
  25. Dec 2, 2019 at 9:18 AM
    #25
    Neutron

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    Very true. Older trucks and trucks in a high salt area will see these small bolts corrode and snap off
     
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  26. Dec 2, 2019 at 9:51 AM
    #26
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 [OP] Busy with projects

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    Luckily I'm in Louisiana and this truck has been in Louisiana its whole life. I'm prepared for the worst though, might upgrade the bolts to grade 8 too, we will see
     
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  27. Dec 2, 2019 at 10:06 AM
    #27
    B737

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    I recently did the transmission service on 2012 LX 570 (similar if not identical 6spd AB60F transmission as our tundras).

    The biggest PSA about this job is that toyota uses 12 M6 bolts, that are steel, into a aluminum casing like complete idiots. Thus, all 12 of the M6 bolts holding the pan onto the transmission snapped (even with heat and blaster). I talk a lot of shit on Mercedes for using aluminum stretch bolts in these situations, but toyota takes the cake here. The M6 bolts are only torqued to something like 7 ft lbs as well. Some bolts we were able to just put on a nut on the top, one got helicoil, the rest were drilled and re-tapped. turned a quick job into a long annoying one.
     
  28. Dec 2, 2019 at 10:12 AM
    #28
    Sumo91

    Sumo91 [OP] Busy with projects

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    So what makes the steel bolts snap when threaded into an aluminum casing? I would think the aluminum threads would strip long before the bolt snaps, but that isnt the case I guess. I may give each bolt a nice soak in kroil and then rap them on the head lightly with a punch before trying to remove
     
  29. Dec 2, 2019 at 10:16 AM
    #29
    B737

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    actually the casing i think may be steel, cant recall was a few months back we did this. The bolts are steel, and rusted into the casing, or was dissimilar metals, maybe both... I do know that every single bolt snapped clean off while using hand tools out of an abundance of caution. was tons of fun.
     
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  30. Dec 2, 2019 at 2:18 PM
    #30
    Ajkkane

    Ajkkane Old fart.

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    I work for two toyota parts departments. I never sold one trans filter for any toyota, even to the mechanics. I worked in parts from 1997 to 2005. The mechanics washed them, most wanted the money of a power flush. It was easier and it didn’t involve dropping the trans pan. My sales were 1.3 million plus per year, thats a lot of parts and again not one trans filter.

     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2019
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