[DIY] Replacing driving/serpentine/timing belt (and idler pulleys)

Replaced idler pulley and tensioner. New tension pulley isnt rotating. Tried loosening bolt and tightening till the spring started to flex and still nothing. Also just replaced serpentine belt as well. Any tips please? Should i have gotten the whole tension pulley assembly? Oh yeah 02 Sequoia 4x4

 

Recommend you start a new thread. Not sure about an 02 Sequoia? I realize the Tundra and Sequoia share drivetrains but might have better luck on a sequoia forum?

For what it is worth, I’d replace the whole tensioner assembly. It’s only a few bolts...besides, once you have the splash guard off and the belt off you are there.

 

2015 Tundra 5.7

I didn’t see any mention of a 6mm allen ratchet needed. Is it required to remove the tensioner? I pulled the 12mm tensioner bolt just now, and tried to use a normal “L” 6mm Allen to loosen up the center bolt, and it’s not budging.

Also, the idler pulley is designed differently. Anyone have any issues with the Dayco Kit?
@Dilsky

 

Yep, 6mm socket Allen required for future folks. Of course I lost my entire damn stick of them! G damnit. It’s always something
Thankfully I had one of the cheap screwdriver kits with a ratchet to screwdriver adapter.

 

Nice write up

 

Sub'd....looking to replace mine in the coming weeks.

 

I've been using only Dayco parts without any issues. I just swapped in new supercharger and #1 idler pulleys today from Dayco (same part numbers in the first post) and a new serpentine belt from Toyota.

 

I installed the entire kit with tensioner pulley and idler pulley, along with new belt. All seems well.

 

Which direction to loosen the tensioner from underneath the truck looking up?

 

I know a little late to reply but if you're looking up from under the truck it's toward the drivers side of the vehicle.

 

Also, great write up for sure. Just replaced mine using the Dayco kit and everything went off without a hitch (well almost). Just be sure to follow the belt path outlined in the earlier post; don't ask me why.

 

This is great, thank you!

Just to make sure I understand (because I’m replacing my belt, tensioner idler and idler like you show in your pictures) what size tools do I need? I have the 5.7 but it’s not the supercharge.

 

14, 12 mm socket, ratchet, 6mm Allen socket. And to make things easy use a hand held 4mm allen wrench to put in the tensioner to keep hold it in place when you release the tensioner

 

I just bought that same kit no issues yet.

 

I used a piece of small pipe over the end of my 6mm “L” Allen wrench to bust it loose

After that,I used my 1/4in 6mm socket and got it the rest of the way out

The first one I did,it made a crack sound when it broke loose but don’t worry!!

 

U can use whatever you want as long as it fits the hole and holds back the tensioner so you can remove the belt as well as when you reinstall belt. I used a nail.

 

My post was referring to the center 6mm bolt being tight and needing extra force to break loose

As far as holding the tensioner back,basically anything that fits in there will work.

 

Thanks everyone! The job is done and took longer than I anticipated. But it all seems to be running smoothly (I always wonder if I did it right when I do a car job...).

 

Thanks for all the info. Did my belt the other day. About a half hour. I got the Gates kit, but didn't have time to do pulleys. My truck is still under CPO extended warranty, but they found that my pulleys were fine, just a glazed belt, which was not covered. So just did the belt. But now i'll keep the two pulleys as spares for when they eventually go. Rock auto had the kit at my front door in less than 48 hours.

 

Advice would be appreciated.
I'm trying to remove my tensioner and idler pulley. No problem letting off the tension and removing the belt. Easy. Now I'm trying to remove the 6 mm Allen head bolt in the tensioner. I can't get a 6 mm socket in it. Might be too must rust? Not sure but it's soaking in PB Blaster right now. I think I have one chance to get this out and if I don't, then a small project gets really big. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. All the nice photos you've posted are helpful but I noticed none of them have as must rust as my 2010 Tundra. Maybe I just replace the pulley?
Thanks.
Thanks everyone.

 

Get a small flathead and scrape away as much rust as you can at the bottom of the hole so your Allen head gets as deep a fit as possible, I'd leave the rust on the sides and tap the Allen head into the hole to get as snug of a fit as possible. If you scrape away the sides your Allen head may fit loosely and strip out. Wouldn't be a bad idea to order a new tensioner bolt for reinstallation

 

I used a stand-alone Metal Allen wrench for mine

i stuck the short end in the socket,and placed a jack handle over the long end and broke it loose

Brake parts cleaner and a little sandpaper will probably make the bolt clean up

Heck,stick a straw on a brake parts can and see if it cleans the socket cap out

 

It’d be cool to know at what mileages you are all starting to hear the chirping that indicates new idlers are needed...

otherwise, what a great post! Thanks!

 

Update. I cleaned up the Allen head bolt as best as I could with PB Blaster and a small pick. Good enough to get the Allen head socket started. Then tapped it in with a small hammer to seat it as deep as possible. Put the breaker bar on it, said a prayer, and began to put the pressure on slowly. With nearly full pressure on, I heard a loud "pink". Something gave way! Like I broke the Allen head socket or the bolt. Thankfully, I got lucky and the bolt broke loose. Very slowly, I back that thing out and told myself to never underestimate the power of prayer. With my revised religious beliefs, I replaced the tensioner and idler pulley and put it all back together in less than 10 min. Started her up and she sounds more quiet than ever. No annoying chirping.

I would recommend doing this work from underneath the truck, rather than from above as I've seen in YouTube videos. No room from above but pretty easy from under.

2010 Tundra SR5 TRD with 212,000+ hard miles

Thanks everyone.

 

I had the same situation, and I did not have enough time to get it off, so I only replaced the idler pulley. Everything was going well until I was trying to take this off. I tried WD-40 and also a heat gun, but it did not work at all. I will leave my old one in there for now and find a better way after, definitely gonna replace the 6mm bolt as well.

 

Used this write up to fix my 2014 sequoia. Super helpful. Local auto part stores had Duralast pulleys that said they fit but they are shaped wrong. Went with Toyota parts.

 

I am at a loss here. Replaced belt, pulley and tensioner. Whenever I start it up, the belt at the alternator jumps a groove. I reset everything and it does it again. Wtf?

 

I think I got a defective tensioner. Put the old one back on and everything is good now. Will need to replace at some point as the bearings were not sounding the best.

 

This is my next project. Thanks for the write up.