Towing without a tow button and trailer brakes question

I have a 2014 SR5 tundra 4.6 l 4 x 4 extra cab 6.5 bed length.
My vehicle did not come equipped with a tow button but does have a factory tow pitch in receptacles for trailer harness I have the 8 pin in the 4 pin so I do not have a tow button I'm not comfortable just leaving it in Indy on long trips while towing cuz I don't want to overheat and burn up my transmission I called Toyota they didn't know their heads from their ass about it my solution is to listen real good to the engine in manual shift as I've done a lot of Tony I'm also a Honda Master tech retired of 25 years so any thoughts on that part
Second issue I have is this trailer I bought has trailer brakes but my truck is not equipped with a brake controller do I need to do anything else 4 this to activate the brakes or do I need to get a brake controller and do some wiring changes any help would be greatly appreciated thank you

 

Welcome to the forums.

So for the trailer brakes, you'll need a brake controller added in order to activate the brakes on the trailer. You'll also need the 7 pin wiring harness for the trailer in order for the trailer brakes to work.

As far as your initial question, are you asking if you can tow without having the tow/haul button? You can. I did it in my Tacoma as they don't have the tow/haul buttons. Tacoma was a 5speed auto and i kept it in 4th gear unless i was cruising on flat highway. If not, you can burn up the torque converter.

 

Also take a look through here. Tons of great info.

https://www.tundras.com/forums/towing-hauling.53/

 

Thank you so much for confirming my thoughts I already ordered ap3 wire harness and bracket on Amazon and I was planning to run mine and manual d v I've got the 6-speed but I'll try it on a flat Indy see how it goes if it keeps up shifting or not thank you again and thank you for the link is forms got a lot of great people they've been answering a lot of questions for me and I just joined and I see you're a new member as well so I think you'll like it too thanks again bud

 

Anytime!
I had to learn it all when I had my Tacoma. I didn't understand what "locking/unlocking" of the torque converter meant. Once it was explained, then noticed it in real life driving while towing, then i learned quickly.

Yeah i just joined. Came from Tacomaworld for 2 years when I had my Tacoma. I learned a ton on these forums. Already learning a lot here on this one.

 

Tow haul on the Tundea does not limit the tranny to a gear. If I remember correctly on my F150s it locked it out of overdrive. It just advances timing some, raises and lowers shifts points. Depending on terrain and wind speed/direction you may just want to use 5th gear. A TT has a lot of wind resistance so wind direction can have a big impact. It can in daily driving too. Driving to hunting ranch in to a stiff south wind 2 weeks ago cost me 1.2 mpgs or more.

 

On your 2014, installing a brake controller is plug-n-play if you buy the right harness. Plugs right into the Toyota harness behind the dash on the right side of the steering column. Tow haul button mainly changes the shift points in the transmission. Look in your owner's manual, mine says to not tow in OD (5/6) gears anyway...some owners dismiss that.

Depending on how big your camper is, you may want to consider retrofitting a free standing ATF cooler behind the grille. You'll also likely need a sway-controlling, weight distributing hitch as well (trailers 5000+ lbs).

 

I should have added that before you get too far down the towing road, you'll want to compare the specifications of the trailer you purchased against the capabilities of the Tundra to make sure you have enough truck for your trailer. Look for your model number on the ID tag on the driver side door jamb just below the latch (or you can figure it out from the descriptions in the owner manual).

Look in your Tundra owner manual under your model number (in the 2017 manual, it's Section 4-1 > Before Driving > Cargo and luggage, Vehicle load limits, Trailer Towing). Then "confirm that the gross trailer weight, gross combination weight, gross vehicle weight, gross axle weight and tongue weight are all within the limits". It's not as confounding as it sounds...I had to get a big cup of coffee and read slow, multiple times.

 

What are you guys who are towing decent size trailers running for tires? My understanding is that the stock tires on some trims are essentially car tires and shouldn't be used to haul a load.

 

Not Necessarily - the P rated tires on most trucks can handle a load - to a point...it is when you are getting to the max capabilities and want to limit the sag, provide a more stable tow...that is where the "E" rated tires come in to play....stiffer sidewalls, and can handle greater pressures.

for most towing applications - the P rated tire is "OK" - unless you are having issues...then the "E" rated tires can give a better tow - at the cost of a comfortable rude (when compared to P rated tires).

My trailer is 7,300 lbs (loaded to the gills) - and the tow is great with the tires on it...when they go, I may consider going to a "P" rated tire...but not sure...on my old Chevy - certainly helped manage the load a little better...on the Tundra...it is fine as is..

 

Do P rated tires just have a stiffer sidewall?

 

Thanks! So what brand, model, size and rating of tire are you running now? I think the 2020 I ordered comes stock with 275/65R18s. I'm not sure of brand or rating.

I'm leaning towards a ~24 ft ultra light travel trailer in the ~7000 lb range (fully loaded) but haven't really done any serious research yet.

 

My understanding the "P" tires - or passenger tires - are "softer" than the "E" rated tires...the side walls are stiff as hell, and can hold greater pressure (caused be wither weight or more air in the tire)...the "E" rated aide like iron for most part.

Currently I have P rated tires on my tundra (i think - gotta go check - lol but they are definately not E rated)- and towing 7,500 lbs...it tows way better than my 2000 silverado ever did - and it had E rated tires (the P felt too squishy in the rear till I got e rated).

so....while some P rated tires have a higher weigh rating than E rated tires....the E rated tires can handle the load WAY better than the P tires...but at a price of comfort. If the P rated tires are working...stay with them. need more "support" - go up to the E rated tires...

the P metric tires can be "6 ply" equivalent...and do a decent job..and the E rated tires are 10 ply equivalent

if your trick came with LT tires (D or E rated) stick with them...some trucks are given the options...I always went up a step.

here is a great overview...

https://www.tires-easy.com/blog/p-metric-tires/

 

Awesome thanks for the info.