Axle Wrap - Drive Line Bump

Just so we are straight:

1) You dropped the pan replaced the solenoid.

2) By default, had to add more fluid after pan reinstall.

3) Will be doing another drain and fill?

Glad your code is gone.

 

I think we have the same lift. I had the same axle wrap issue as well. It was caused by the 4 inch blocks that came with the lift kit. I got custom leaf packs made to eliminate the lifting blocks. Problem solved. The add travel and payload is a nice benefit as well.

 

We do. Not long ago, I greased the slip yoke, in the rear driveshaft, like was mentioned earlier as a solution, and the jerk/bump that I was experiencing has disappeared.

 

Bingo. I was convinced I had a bad u joint. I had a shop rebalance the drive shaft and inspect. They were convinced my joints were good. I greased the living snot of of the slip yoke and it solved my issue.

 

I got used to it. It's when the transmission shifts to a lower gear when in stop. The ecu is trying to compensate for the load I believe.

 

I thought you still had that low speed knock?

 

Maybe you're thinking of someone else? I was able to resolve this earlier this year after I found out just how much grease that slip yoke can hold.

 

All this talk of slip yoke greasing, where is it and how? I may have missed it...

 

I had this same issue with my 05 Tacoma. Just sort of got used to it after driving it for 14 yrs although I did get out one time when I thought a lady had bumped me at a stoplight.

Ma'am, wherever you are, please accept my apologies.

 

Ok. May be I was absent during your fix declaration. I just remember you greasing the yoke and worrying about rear shaft hydro-lock or something.

 

Basically, in order to move up and down with your suspension, your drive shaft also has to get longer and shorter by a small amount. The slip yoke is what lets it do that. Its the last part of the driveshaft before the last U joint at the differential. There is a grease fitting on it, you pump about half a quart of grease into it until it starts leaking out around the joint.

 

Aerindel nailed it as usual. Here is the post I shared back in June. I found this on another forum.



"The driveshaft slip yoke has a zerk fitting for adding grease. There's a large void under the zerk fitting and it may take 30-40 pumps on a grease gun to actually get any grease on the splines, depending on how much grease was in there to begin with.

Take your grease gun loaded with lithium-based NLGI #2 grease and start pumping grease into the slip yoke zerk fitting. At some point you will encounter increased resistance on the grease gun handle and see that the slip yoke is expanding. Continue to slowly add grease. You will likely see the slip yoke expand on each pump of the handle and then slowly contract. Continue adding grease for about five to ten more pumps or until you see grease coming out around the seal, then stop.

Now get on the rear bumper and bounce it up and down a few times. This will compress the slip yoke and force more grease along the splines. Now take a wrench and remove the zerk fitting to allow excess grease to escape. Once the zerk is removed gently bounce on the bumper again to give it a little help. Clean up the expelled grease, re-install the zerk and you are good to go."

 

Aerindel/Hand Model:

The slip yoke procedure listed is only for 4WD, correct? I have a 2WD and from what I understand, I have no zerk fittings/easy way to grease the slip yoke? I've narrowed it down to either: 1. bad u-joints (assuming the test is to see if there is play at those joints?) 2. low transmission fluid (going to take it in for a drain/fill) 3. bad carrier bearing (does this still apply to 2WD? sorry for the stupid questions...) or 4. slip yoke needs grease (no way to grease for 2WD).

 

I don't mean to interject but if you have basic hand tools you can do a drain and fill in under 30 minutes. I promise there is no reason to pay for this.

• You drain the fluid
• measure how many quarts come out
• refill the fluid through the dipstick

Save yourself the $70-100 and do it yourself. You should get out around 4 quarts of fluid which costs less than $20 from Wal-Mart.

 

I actually meant to tag you, any opinions on the rest of my post? Thank you for the input on the transmission drain/fill, helps to hear that because the posts I read said the '06 drain/fill was worth taking in? I've always done all my fluids, but with some of those posts talking about specific inclines, thermal scanners, etc., I was about to count myself out.

 

Ah, I didn't realize you had the 5 speed auto in the 06. You can still do a drain+fill but it is more complicated. I would probably watch a video and do it myself because I enjoy learning but that's up to you.

If you have no zerk fittings, I'm not sure how you would grease the slip yoke. @empty_lord do you know how this is done on a 2WD?

I'm not an expert on U joints. I can tell you I initially thought I had a bad U Joint until I had the drive shaft inspected at guys that specialize in that. They told me they were all fine. What's the general condition of them? Does it look like they have never seen any grease? Maybe post a few pics.

Yes, your 2WD should still have a carrier bearing. If you are not familiar with it here is a good thread on that subject with pictures. Basically, you want to inspect the rubber boot around it for dry rot and see how much play the drive shaft has if you give it a shake.

 

I do not know much about 2WD vehicles, having never owned one.

If there are no zerks I imagine you would unbolt the slip yoke and rear U joint form the pinnion flange and remove them entirely (carefully marking everything so it goes back together the same way, and pack the slip yoke socket with grease)

Bad U joints are certainly a possibility. I have certainly had my share of them over the years and they can cause a lot of issues and then you kick yourself when you figure it out because they are such a cheap and easy fix.

Yes, you can check them yourself fairly easily. In your case, jack of the rear end of the vehicle and place it on jackstands so you can turn both wheels easily. This is important as U joints can feel solid on a locked axle as the bearings will bind in some positions and show no movement even if very badly worn.

This will also require a hard flat surface as you will have to have the truck in neutral without the parking brake set.

Once in neutral, with the brake off, get under the truck and check each U joint by grabbing it on either side and feeling for movement AS you rotate the shaft a bit. As mentioned, you can do this test a million times without turning the shaft and have it feel rock solid but then when you take the torque off the bearings realize that there is actually a lot of movement. I learned this one the hard way. Replaced a lot of things on a vehicle trying to fix a vibration because I had 'checked' the U joints and decided they where fine...until I finally checked them properly and figured out one of the bearings was totally trashed and most of the needle rollers had fallen out.

 

This right here saved my ass last night. Thank you! I got all of the zerks pumped and there was a grinding sound from a stop with acceleration. The slip yoke had too much pressure and was pushing the flange bolts against the new carrier bearing. As soon as I removed the zerk fitting, it erupted grease everywhere. The slip yoke and carrier bearing adjusted after a couple of jumps, and life is better.

 

Sweet! That's on your 05 I assume? I heard Yota switched to sealed U joints on the new Tundras.

 

Yes it is. I haven't looked under the 19 to confirm the sealed joints yet.

I would also like to add that replacing the carrier bearing got rid of the bump when coming to a stop or accelerating from.

 

That must have been some massive pressure to push those bolts against the CB.

 

It had the slip portion extended pretty far. It's all smooth now that I know the importance of removing the zerk.

 

Drain and fill ATF is very simple and and is very important for those who tow or off road regularly. Do it every other oil change to cycle new ATF into the tranny. Always use the Toyota specified ATF listed in your manual.