What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Both are 1/8" and the 1.5" mounting legs are .25" I believe. With all .120" wall round tubing I'd have a hard time thinking it's rigid enough through the whole 96" length. That 2x2 is a lot more rigid than the 1.75" round at least in unbent pieces and in certain directions. The 1.75" round is also DOM so there's some extra strength over standard hrew.

 

Rattle can it. Plug in your truck stats for your color. Its the product I used. Not perfect clear coat, but the color match is real good. Looks like you’ll have to sand to entire hood down for a proper job which is a bummer.

https://www.automotivetouchup.com/

 

Oh wow, only .120 wall? I thought you would have been using at least .180 or bigger. But I guess with enough legs to spread the weight, and yeah I’m sure that dom helps. On I used .250 on the main on the 4runner, clearly overkill, but had to add more supports after some testing, it wasn’t dom

 

It's all about supports. I'm planning more gussets on the main tube to account for the .120 wall round. You can make everything .25" wall and gusset nothing and maybe it will work or you can go lighter and gusset where you think it will bend. I figure that a properly reinforced cage for a race vehicle up to 5,000lbs can be 1.75"x.120" DOM so I should be able to make sliders work too. I am thinking I'll be putting something like this on the bottom or bottom/side too https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R2127.html

 

Whats the weight per slider that you are constructing with the .120?

And what is your estimated weight it would be at .250?

 

Not sure yet because it isn't welded together but I can curl the main tube without the mounting legs attached. So maybe 80-100lbs all said and done. Maybe a little 20 more with some more gussets.

 

I was thinking around 100lbs plus/minus.

Going up to .250 would double the weight?

You should weight yours out so you know more precisely.

 

I ended up at 125# with .250 main tube and main supports to the frame, and I think I used .180 on the 1.75 tube for the actual slider/step. I bet @KarmaKannon will be nice and light

 

Give or take it would about double it. I just ran the numbers on 10' of 1.75" round and 10' of 2"x.120" square and it's right at 50lbs. The mounting legs will be 30-40lbs easy by the time they get gusseted.

 

That is one of the strangest things I've ever seen on a vehicle. Between this, and the rust I would be inclined to sell that thing, buy a one way ticket down south, and drive back with a different 1st gen Tundra... If wind can rip your paint off like that, I can't imagine what it's going to look like in a few more years.

 

Bushings arrived. The special high dolla ‘lube’ is back ordered 7-10 days. Reading the box, I should be able to use Moly-b lith due to the impervious underlined text?

If so, I’ll cancel the ‘lube’.

 

The PO of my truck wouldn’t let me drive it untill he had these installed, said it made a huge difference, good’n’tite

 

I installed mine without lubing anything. 35k miles later and there's been no squeaks. The rack bushings shouldn't really move around much, they're meant as more of an insulator for vibrations I think.

 

They usually come with a little packet of grease

 

Not on this kit. Everyone on reviews says needs grease! Order grease!

My thoughts are, upon getting my hand model touch on these things, that the ‘graphite impregnation’ nature of these bushings is enough that I can make it slip in there. Someone please.

Also, I don’t think lube should be on these anyways as the rack needs the bushing to grip? Versus slip which is the sensation we are trying to prevent?

I’m going to cancel ‘special lube’ per Fester. If I need some, then I’ll spray some silcone by PB on it.

 

Lumbar Support Front Seats Mod

Materials used: Free Purple Carrot Food delivery insulation.

Removed d-ring hooks from back of seat rods. Stuffed insulation between metal seat frame and back of cushion.

Results: Outstanding. What did you expect?

Bonus mod coming later.

 

Anybody wantingSkid Row Off-Road skid plates for Black Friday? Last year they had a huge sale. Iirc it was 25% off plus free shipping. I called to inquire and they said they hadn't decided if they were doing a sale this black Friday. So if you want Skid Row skid plates, call em and inquire. Maybe if enough people call they will get on it. They're the only brand that makes first gen tundra skid plates.

 

If you have the black ones you have a better chance of no noise. But proper practice is to use the grease. And they’re picky with grease (super lube will work in an pinch) my Tacoma squeaked like high hell till I put the energy Suspension grease in. The rack will move ever so slightly unless you hard mount it. It’s suppose to move or you’d feel every tiny little bump. But it’s a very very minimal amount

 

@Professional Hand Model I don't recall using grease on mine, I think I used a bit of anti seize on the bolts and nothing more. These bushings aren't a pivot point so it isn't like control arm or leaf springs bushings.

 

I e-mailed them.

Also, didn't someone post about another vendor making skid plates for our Tundra's including the gas tank and also in Aluminum?

 

Yes. It's on the armor thread, last page.

 

Was definitely planning on picking up all the skids they offer and was waiting until black friday because people mentioned how good of a sale they did last year. Ill have to shoot them an email as well! Thanks for the heads up

 

I do recall that post however to my knowledge that company doesn't have a webpage and I think their tundra stuff was still just a prototype. However I could be wrong.

 

All set up and ready to go for tomorrow afternoon. Just need to buy some 1/2” by 19mm and 22mm deep sockets. I like the impact sockets as they seem to have a sharper bite on the chamfered edging. Really locks in on the nut.

Tried cancelling lube but its already shipped. Oh well. Maybe can be used on something else in the future?

Heres the tool arsenal. Should I go old sckool on the torque wrench?

 

https://ramotorsports.ca/collections/element
I found their website but no mention of Tundras.

 

Unless you have x-ray vision you'll have to skip the old school torque wrench for the 19mm since you won't be able to see the scale.

 

I’ve considered this already. The solution is to put your finger on the scale at your assigned torque level. The needle hits your digit and thats it! Close enough for guvment work.

I just put up the old sckool one for fun. Only one I’ve ever seen in person.

It only goes to 100ftlbs and most of the steering rack bolts are 123ftlbs so the Husky will be used instead.

 

You would never put an ungloved digit under the truck while applying hi torque blindly. Mrs.PHM would have a fit!

 

I still use the old style toque wrench’s at work. Well the inch lb one. To determine differential preload.

 

Y’all with access cabs/reg cabs, how much lift you running in the front?