Another suspension thread...

Yeah, another one. Sorry y'all. But I'm not too sure which path to take. As many off y'all know my truck is sitting at 318k miles and I'm pretty sure it's still on the stock springs. Back in 15 I replaced the horribly blown shocks with some really shitty monroes and now I'm looking to replace the whole setup and have a lot of questions. I know I need to replace most of the suspension as it sits now. I'm more than likely gonna overwhelm myself and replace the steering rack at the same time.

My goal is to level the front suspension and replace shocks/springs. I'm not looking to run 35s, and rarely go offroad. Even if I did, it would be mud or snow, no bumpy high speed stuff. Might possibly do 33s later in pizza cutter size(255/80 16).

My problem is being that I'm not well versed in shock/spring knowledge. I'm looking at these kits:










Now I really like the toytec kit as it has rear springs, but I dont wanna lift the rear. And the only reason I'm looking at the 6112s is for the new springs.

Would in be "too much" suspension to run 6112s and 5160s seeing how I'm on pavement most of the time? I don't mind stiffer ride and I'd rather have too much than not enough. I'm of the philosophy of I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it.


Tl;dr: I want new shocks and springs and dont know what I'm doing.

 

I have nothing to offer besides that I've been very impressed with what even a simple Bilstein shock upgrade can do to the ride quality of a vehicle. If I wasn't looking to go off road often or if my off roading was mildly cruising dirt roads I'd probably be looking at some normal silver body Bilsteins.

 

I was just about to tell you to KISS and get the 5100s but I realized the springs on your Monroe's won't transfer over.

That 2nd screenshot is overkill. You don't need remote reservoirs for street driving.

I'm gonna need to think about this and see what others say.

Basically, you need an entire coil over for the front and the rear really doesn't matter as you're just replacing the shocks.

 

That BOSS kit is also overkill based on your needs.

 

Yeah, its overkill, but I'm looking at it from the perspective of overbuilding. Same reason my AR15 is built with M4 parts. But if it's OVER over building then I won't.

 

Silver Bilsteins are probably the mp tested mil spec bolt/carrier of the suspension world. Doing the boss setup is probably more akin to running a low mass bolt, Hydraulic buffer, adjustable gas block, just because you can. Nothing wrong with any of it if you want to spend the money.

 

That's a good way of putting it. Kinda leaning towards the first one with some good no lift leafs for the rear. The only problem with the boss is then I'd have to get bigger rubber to look right with the lift as opposed to level.

 

This seems like a good option for you price/performance wise and Eibach has decent rep....I feel like somebody on here bought this kit...Looks @00TundraZ and @Mustanley have them...maybe they can chime in.

https://www.1stgenoffroad.com/store/p571/EibachProTruckLiftKitToyotaTundra.html#/

 

Someone did. He's got a build thread but I can't remember his name. Zack maybe.

Another option is Old Man Emu.

@bmf4069 keep in mine if you order long shocks in the rear you may have to lift the bed. For your needs there really isn't any reason to get the longer ones.

 

Rear 5100s dont require lift to run, 5160s and 5100s have the same collapsed length of 13.84, they wont bottom out. The 5160s have an extra inch of travel than the 5100s, more extension available.

I would go with the 6112/5160 combo, the price difference is pretty small and since you arent looking to lift the rear it makes more sense. Keep in mind you may need to find a top plate and isolator, Wheelers sells these at a fair price if needed.

Bilstein are digressive valves so they may feel a bit stiff on washboards or freeway expansion joints. My rear end bucks on our crappy CA freeways where they haven't figured out how to make smooth expansions yet.

 

This is the set up I have, front set at top knotch, rear has an AAl(done by PO)
It handles great around town, a lil stiff, I haven’t gotten it on wash board or out on a trail but I’m sure it will do fine.
I’ve got 5100s on the 2010 4runner, they do great right around 45-50 on washboards, stays right on the crest of the bump my mom always complains about how bad a portion of the road is(haha she’s also towing a 26’ 5th wheel) I just tell her I go faster and she rolls her eyes

 

Yeah, digressive valving is always a bit harsh on short rapid movements at street or highway speeds. On trail speed they are pretty nice.

 

Right. I knew you didn't have to lift the bed for the 5100's. I wasn't sure about the 5160's.

I know @because_wumbo-truck had to lift his bed but I don't remember what he has back there.

 

Honestly you're probably better off with OME. Much smoother ride with toytec or Bilstein. Best bang for your buck from everyone if talked to. And I've ridden.in both. The only ones I have no experience with are 6112s

 

I lifted the bed to remove the shocks. We couldn't get them to come out and needed more room to manuver power tools lol

 

Easier just to cut through the shafts. Getting original rear shocks out is a pain.

 

Whatever you decide to buy, get one of these.

The length plus the swivel head made my rear shocks a breeze. You don't even need to remove the rear tires with this.

 

Lots of good info; I appreciate it! The price on those eibachs make them tempting, but I'm leery of "you get what you pay for". I like the OME kit because it comes with rear leafs, but dont really wanna lift the rear. Same with the toytec kit. With all that being said, I think I'm leaning towards the 6112/5160 and buying new rear leafs from somewhere. We get our bonus in December so I've got a while to decide. Until then, I'm gonna start getting all the other suspension parts ordered.

Or I could be a guinea pig and try the eibachs. That price is pretty tempting....

 

If you are looking at new rear springs I would check out General Spring for a good OE replacement. I am happy with mine.

 

Bookmarked. Thanks!

 

I had a hell of a time getting my sawzall in between the frame and bottom of the bed to cut the tops off but I got it. Longer/better blade did the trick. I went through a shit ton of the Milwaukee Torch blades trying to get the rear shocks cut out. Ended up going to Home Depot to get something better, got the Diablo Demon carbide tip 9 inch for thick metal. It was a breeze after that. They are expensive and not knowing how well they would work I bought 3 for $55 After blowing through a dozen of the Torch blades and 2 hours of my time on one shock, I cut the other top off plus the bolt for the lower in about 10 minutes. To express how good these blades are even further, I also cut the lower control arms off (8 cuts through grade 8 hardware) in a total of about an hour, all on the same blade as used on the second rear shock!. These were a game changer for me.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-...ng-Reciprocating-Saw-Blade-DS0908CF/205426168

 

Don't forget ya got all the Black Friday deals coming up...

 

Since you asked, I’d do those 6112 (new coils!) and 5100’s (no need for the double rez on street) paired up with these OE rear leaf springs.

I’ll be ordering these leaf springs soon. You’ll need to order your TOYOTA OEM spring bushings in addition from a separate source. Also, Toyota sells the shackle kit and their respective bushings separately while you are at it. Knock it all out at one time and be done with it.

Sdtrucksprings dot com

 

The springs from General Spring come with the bushings, not sure how much the bushings are but it could make more sense financially to go with General. Just a thought.

 

+1

Toyota isn't known for making great leaf springs.

Are there other brands that might fit our trucks without modifying mounting locations?

Maybe a Chevy leaf pack?

 

Thanks for this info. Wonder if they are made in USA?

I’ll do some more research on everything with General later in the week.

 

I used a grinder and a pair of vice grips. Didnt take long but felt like a precision surgery. Those shafts are hard.

 

They are made by Dayton which is located in Harrisburg, PA, my hometown. So yes, made in the USA. Their price has gone way down! I think I paid $270 a side plus shipping.