What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Possibly a stupid question but how does one drain the MC specifically? Is there a bleeder valve on it?

 

No, would be nice if there was. There should be bleeder valves all over the damn ABS system.

You have to disconnect the two output lines on the master cylinder, attach some threaded nipples where the lines were, put tubes on those nipples and loop them back into the fluid reservoir. Have somebody push the pedal slowly while you watch for bubbles. Have them let off slowly, wait about 15 seconds and repeat. When no more bubbles come out you're good, now remove the contraptions and reconnect the brake lines. Then bleed all 4 corners and the proportion valve.

Went for a mild test run on my street. It stops just fine at 5 mph, get it up to 20 mph and it's a different story. Brake pedal gets hard but brakes don't grab. I'm curious if the hose on the vacuum port is cracked and not feeding the booster or what. Otherwise maybe this booster is busted. Going to try replacing that tomorrow and check my drums for adjustment.

Any thoughts @empty_lord ? New booster and master cylinder, bled it all to hell, nomore bubbles.

@FrenchToasty haven't got that far yet, I can't get to the dirt road as weak as these brakes are.

 

Quick question, I didnt bleed the proportioning valve when I did all my brake stuff earlier this year? Should I have?

@Darkness I had a d/c vacuum line that made my brakes hard to operate, but it was at highway speeds. Maybe that could be it?

 

I looked at the end that meets the booster, it's pretty deteriorated. I'm gonna see if I have some hose to replace it with.

The brake proportion valve I've always been on the fence about. I do it just because it's easy, it's there, and I usually see some dirt and bubbles come out. If your brakes are fine I would leave it until next time.

 

Pedal hard but no brakes? Sounds like a bad check valve to the booster.

 

Portioning valve only needs to be bled when your repacking the master or something further up the line.. simple brake flush’s and stuff I tend not to worry about them.

 

These check valves can rotate right? It was aimed the wrong direction so I turned it a bit.

 

I didn't bleed mine either time I changed the brake lines. I let the fluid run out of the master cylinder completely for the front half of the system. My pedal and brakes feel fine. I didn't even bleed the rear because that side of the master didn't run dry. Maybe that's the cutoff when someone has to bleed the proportioning valve?

 

Usually

 

Went to pickup a nearly new Dual Fuel Generator. Seller said he used it once, included full propane bottle. Runs on gas and propane. Should be able to make it run on Natural Gas also. This will replace the 2kw Coleman PowerMate I bought after the 1994 Northridge quake.

 

Nice! I think this is the year I finally get one. Every 5-10 years we get a nice windy and cold storm around January that knocks power out for a couple days. One time my mom was sick and if we didn't have my dad's generator I don't know how she would have been. Simple things like some heat, ac, or clean clothes can be the difference between getting more sick or getting better. I think it's mostly a stress thing. Good call on the multiple fuel sources too!

 

Those Champion gensets get rave reviews. Propane/NG is the way to go for a generator, no need to store and rotate gasoline, no worry of a crudded up carb from sitting too long either.

 

Got my stickers from @boardude, thank you! The tuna is coming along.

 

Anyone installed one of these diff drop kits? Send inexpensive and should help front Drive line angles.

 

I installed Dirty Deeds Long tube headers.



Actually, this was just a dream I had last night. You can imagine my disappointment when I woke up and realized it didn't happen.

 

I don't see a price on there but Toy Tech sells the diff drop kit for Before I added the ICON's in the front I was expecting to do this mod but my CV's are actually not at that crazy of an angle so I have opted to leave the diff alone.

 

My right blinker is blinking like crazy, ive changed all the bulbs on the front and back and i even changed the fuse but it still has hyper speed blinking. does anyone else have this issue?

 

You didn't replace with LEDs did you??

 

29$$ in this site. I think I'm going to get and install it. The Tacoma guys all seem to like them.

 

No, they were just normal halogens. ive seen multiple posts about LEDs doing that as well but mine are halogens. i thought it was the wiring harness so i ordered a new harness for the rear lights but its still doing it.

 

Wheelers sells it for super cheap. I think like $15

Edit: NVM the price has gone up significantly since I last checked a year ago. That or my memory is just wrong lol

I also planned to do one but opted not to.

 

Maybe the relay?

I know when I did LEDs instead of adding resistors, I swapped the stock flasher relay for an led flasher relay. Maybe your stock relay is bad?

 

Man.. I have dreams of my trucks both being done and badass. Only to wake up and see 2 u finished projects

 

that could defs be, i may have to take a look into it. it the grand scheme it's not damaging anything it's just really annoying to turn right hahah

 

I picked up the 6250 watt dual fuel during the last PG&E outage a couple weeks ago just to have as they talked about further outages later that week. Thought about keeping it, but the thing weighed a ton and was massive so I returned it for a inverter unit instead. I really only need to run my fridge and while the dual fuel would be nice, 1 gallon per 10 hours on the inverter should last me quite some time if needed. Hopefully that one works out for you.

 

What does Yodagan mean?

 

Guessing it's a play on Hoonigan and Toyota

 

Yeah but they're badass projects

 

a dream about installing headers on a 4.7 sounds more like a nightmare to me. Haha