Advice on my new audio picks

Hey everyone. Been lurking around researching tunes for my truck. I'm the proud 'new' owner of a 2017 SR5 non-JBL Tundra. I'm looking to upgrade with new speakers, amp and sub keeping the factory radio. I tend to keep vehicles for a while, as I just sold my 2005 Tacoma that I did purchase new with 223k miles. It was a great truck!

I would like some feedback or suggestions on the components I've picked out. I'm a 'mature' (if I can classify myself as such) guy trying to get fuller sound to fill the cab. I listen to a mix of music from classic rock, grunge, some electric, R&B, etc. Not much country or rap. I've performed installs in my younger days, and I'm an avid do-it-yourself person for both the satisfaction and saving some cash. I plan to have the truck for some time to come, so I would consider upgrading some components depending on budget. I'd like to stay around the ~$500-600 (to the wife its $350. I would consider and like a single 5-channel amp, but I haven't found one in my budget with good dyno results.

• Keep factory HU (Non-JBL)
• Kicker Key Amp (45x4 & DSP) for fronts & rear
• $69 AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter with AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control
  AudioControl LC2i (run front channel & sub)
• Fosgate
  $75 R165-S Prime 6.5” 2-Way Component Speaker System
  R165-S components in front with tweeters in sails
• Fosgate R1525X2 2-way in rear
• Disconnect all dash speakers (I've read mixed on this)
• Sound Ordnance B-8PTD sub (125 RMS/250 Peak) under driver seat (need to confirm fit, but you guys may give me the answer)

Appropriate harnesses and speaker brackets for amp & doors. I also plan to use some 50mil sound deadening around the doors. I plan to mount the Key & LC2 under the passenger seat on a custom bracket. Beyond the advise on my picks, I also have a couple questions.

I would like to run a single 10-g power wire (copper, not clad) from battery to sub amp, then feed from sub to Key (fuse at battery and off feed to Key). I know this may not be ideal, and I'm fine running a second 10-g to the key (I know this only required a 12-g), and please don't reply with "you need 4 gauge" cause bigger is better, etc. Based on the combined wattage for these class-D amps and distance 10-g copper should be fine.

Could I run the Key off the factory amp harness wire? I've been searching for the gauge with no luck.

If I can't use the factory power on the Key, I'll use it for the LC2. If I can, then I plan to use the switched + for the LC2.

Thanks everyone for any feedback!

 

I feel your pain, I’m in my mid 50’s but still like to crank up my tunes. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out the best set up and I finally said screw it and reached out to James at tech12 and he put together a package for me that should surpass my expectations and his prices were hard to beat. I haven’t received my order yet but should have it soon. I’d at least email him and see what he can do for you, I found him good to work with so far and he appears to have a big following here. tech12volt@gmail.com is his email, good luck!

 

Good luck with your system, I'm sure it will sound good. Me, All I did was replace the amp under the passenger seat to give me a little more power and I'm good.

 

Honestly man, just change the head unit. You won't regret it at all. Looks like you're planning on spending quite a bit, and the OEM head init will really hold you back

 

If I was building a kick ass system, I would definitely change the headunit. It all starts there. Add all the amps, speakers, subs, and crossovers you want. If the originating signal is subpar, well....

 

Thanks everyone for the feedback! I would like to keep the factory HU for the stock appearance and maintaining all the steering wheel controls. I realize there's an adapter to keep these, but that adds to the overall cost & complexity. I may start with my referenced upgrades, and look at the HU if I still feel more is needed. Thanks @Devildog183 for @james@tech12volts. I've seen James mentioned many times, so I'll give him a shout.

 

James is the man. I am not sure how he is able match and even beat prices of big box stores and online retailers. I would gladly pay more for stuff through him because I get the piece of mind but I have not ever had to overpay with him, usually he comes out to be the best deal

 

Thanks @Pudge, I certainly don't mind paying a little premium for the knowledge and expertise. After all that's how we all earn a check at the end of the month

 

I changed out all my speakers and originally went with factory HU and DSP....just couldn’t get the sound I wanted so went with Kenwood DMX905s and it sounds so much better due to all the equalization and sound “effects” the kenwood has compared to bass, treble, and mid in the stock unit. If you are going to keep the Entune then you might look at an AC EQL or something like it to get more adjustment capabilities but IMO the stock unit just sounds flat.

 

Here is mine. No regrets, it’s amazing.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/upgraded-my-system.51307/

 

i have a RF running my subs as well...seems like a solid amp so far

 

Hey everyone. Thanks again for all the feedback. I wanted to provide a quick update on my build. So far I've got the Key amp, LC2i, and SO B-8PTD. All from Crutchfield. I'm still waffling on door speakers, and I'll probably wait for some Black Friday sale now. Got my amp & LC2 mounted up during some college football tonight. Hope to get installed soon. Props to @TundraTex for his build and amp wiring guide!

Mocked up


Wired up - Semi-permanent Sure I'll have to adjust some before final mount under passenger seat.


Sub - Wanted to try and fit under driver seat, but it may be too tight. Will mount under back seat or back wall.