D3's Black 18' Crewmax Tundra Build

I've already started this slow build, but I'll catch you guys up. Then I'll update this post overtime.

CURRENT LOOK



OLD TRUCK: 2011 Limited Double Cab 5.7 Black built by someone else which minimized my attachment to it. Hence I sold it.
And let me say this... for everyone who is debating on which cab configuration to get let me answer it for you from experience. Its simple. Crewmax. Had I got a Crewmax originally there's a good chance I would still have it (glad I didn't though) because it was nice, but it was someone else's project. I needed to start from scratch. I was feening for my own project.

Day 1: 2018 Toyota Tundra Crewmax Limited 4x4 Midnight Black
Purchased: 1/24/2018


MOD 1: Upgraded Interior and Exterior lighting to LED's
1/25/2018


MOD 2: Wireless phone charger
1/30/2018

The first mod I did was put in a wireless charger in the arm rest spot. Disassembling the armrest is simple. I've since upgraded the charger to a Mophie Wireless Charge Pad (Apple Optimized) 7.5W charger. The One I had in there originally was a cheap 5W wireless charger off Amazon. The charge speed was just too slow for me. The Mophie is expensive, so I couldn't justify destroying a brand new one. So, I found a used one on amazon prime (which ended up being brand new because someone opened the box and that's it). So I ended up keeping that one and using the one I've had for about a year so it showed much more wear and tear. Opening this one was a pain! Because of the higher quality, there is a plastic housing then the coils are set on the top of a metal housing. So, all I had to remove was that outer plastic. None the less, it's a much faster charging option and worth it.


Old charger that I used.


MOD 3: Line-X bed liner
2/13/2018



MOD 4: Window Tint - 5% all the way around 50% on the windshield
2/14/2018



MOD 5: Rigid Industries Smoked Fog Lights
2/24/2018



MOD 6: Bak REVOLVER X4
6/13/2018



MOD 7: Amp Research Steps
8/23/2018



MOD 8: Tesla Style Head Unit
9/10/2018



MOD 9:
Procomp 4" lift
Toyo M/T's 35x12.5xR22
Fuel Maverick D538 wheels 22x10 -24 offset
10/26/18





MOD 10: Jam Handle (4 finger)
10/31/2018


MOD 11:

$52 2014 Tundra Door Sill Protectors(Color: Black)

Tundra Door Seal Protectors
11/5/2018


MOD 12: Power folding mirrors
11/9/2018

 

Nice build so far.

 

The new model Telsa is sweet! I had the 1st version, sold with in 1 week, too many issues. Would like to get this version.

 

Noice!

 

Finally got her lifted this past week.
Procomp 4" lift
Toyo M/T's 35x12.5xR22 ☺️
Fuel Maverick D538 wheels 22x10 -24 offset

 

I went with the 4" because I still wanted to fit in my garage. Measured this a ton of times and my calculations were correct thankfully haha. Have about 2" to spare.

 

Turned out great! Looks mean!

 

The one I got is perfect. Every now and then it will have a small issue. Like a phone, tablet, or computer, I've resolved every "glitch" by going into the settings and doing a "save and reboot." I honestly don't understand the issue people get. I just took my time installing it and made sure everything was connected securely.

 

Got a chance to pull my trailer (7'x16' enclosed) the other day, post lift.

A few things I was concerned about...

1. Any type of power loss because of the larger wheels and tires?
2. Power loss due to the increase in height?
3. Rear end sag?​

1. Tow/Haul mode is such a beast. It's just crazy how that 1 button basically unlocks the truck. So with that said, I literally didn't notice any type of strain due to the wheel/tires.

2. I know people often do a re-gear from what I've seen but typically when the ran 37's. So, I knew there could be a chance I would need to do this. I no longer think so. I had 35's on my previous double cab that had a leveling kit but it only had 20's and had almost no offset compared to these. So when I seen them (these 22's) they looked massive and heavy. I thought for certain I'd notice a power loss considering the wheels and tires add 2 extra inches of height.

3. One reason why I ended up settling on the Procomp and not the BDS (my preferred option until I did research), is because the Procomp adds a leaf. Now they say it doesnt increase load capacity or anything like that. Its purpose is to add height and be an addition to the rear 1" block. Well I'm here to say that if anything it stiffened up the rear end for sure. I was prepared to order an AirLift suspension kit, but as you can see in the pictures, everything including the trailer looks pretty level. The trailer isn't loaded how I normally load it or with what I normally load it with, but there's a good amount of weight in the front of the trailer. I'm still using the same hitch receiver as I was before (2" drop) but before when I had to flip it and put the ball basically upside down because loaded it made the trailer and rear end sag. Now since I get to use it regular I'm thinking I can get bags to keep it level for when the trailer is fully loaded. So, I think I'm going to hold off on getting one of those nice polished, adjustable, expensive hitches and just run with what I have and just get bags if necessary. The only way I see me needing another hitch is if a tow a smaller trailer.

Looking pretty level with the trailer gross weight probably about ~3500 lbs


Very little rear sag thanks to the Procomp add-a-leaf style of kit in my opinion.


Reference pic. Here I'm using the exact same hitch/receiver set up. The trailer is brand new and completely empty in this pic and there's clear rear sag. Which confirms that add-a-leaf is helping.

 

Added the Jam Handle today. Love it so far... When I remember to use it haha. Still getting used to it. I have the little clear protection on the edge of the door, but this make it so that it stays more fingerprint free. I'm going to order two more for the back doors as well.

I chose this location because from test fitting this (putting the jam handle on using masking tape), you get the most leverage in that spot which will make it easier for the ladies to use it

 

That's a better option I grabbed the pocket on the inside of the door panel to shut mine

 

Added a little protection to the step area. Ever since I lifted the truck it seems as if my feet got heavier because a bunch of scuffs have been appearing in this area.

 

With the -24 offset wheels I decided to get, it became increasingly more difficult to pull into my garage. I finally had to pull the trigger and do the power folding mirror upgrade/mod. Its ludacris that my old 2011 came standard with power folding mirrors, but now they made these a platinum only option.

Overall this was easy to do. The hardest part was by far feeding the wire through the door jams and feeding the wires from the passenger side to the drivers side.

Parts:

$65 KILMAT 80 mil 36 sqft Car Sound Deadening Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

Kilmat

$9 Noico Metal Barrel Roller Installation Tool for Automotive Sound Deadening Insulation Materials for Cars & Truck (Audio Dampening & Deadener Installation)

Roller for kilmat

$25 Electronix Express Authentic Stranded Hook Up Wire Kit (Tinned Copper) 22 Gauge (6 Different Colored 25 Foot Spools Included), 150 Ft

Wire

$6 TE CONNECTIVITY / AMP 175265-1 CONTACT, RECEPTACLE, 22-18AWG, CRIMP (5 pieces)

Connector 1

$18 TE CONNECTIVITY / AMP 1123343-1 CONTACT, RECEPTACLE, 24-20AWG, CRIMP (100 pieces)

Connector 2
Mirrors

$23 uxcell Rear View Power Mirror Switch Folding Fit for Toyota 84872-52040

Switch

Helpful post

Ill keep this simple. You only need 4 wires. 2 for the power folding mirrors (pins 7 and 8) and two for the puddle lights (pins 5 and 6). I discovered that the mirrors I got don't have auto dimming and neither did the oem ones. So I didn't use those pins. I made a cheat sheet the summarizes and explains where everything needs to go. I just highlight the important stuff.


I made this to test the pins to make sure I had the correct ones and connected the other end to the battery on the truck.


The pins are easier than I thought to put on. I discovered that there is a little door on both connectors that if you take off makes it significantly easier to push the pins through.

On the pins that go into the mirror clip, theres a little hook thing on the left side. If you look at the connector its supposed to be on the right side, so I just cut it off. If you don't its almost impossible to slide the pin in.


When running the wires, straighten a hanger or whatever else you have to feed the wire through. But lube the grommet. Thank me later


Finished product.


As you can see, I have a two car garage, but for some dumb reason they decided to put a wall in the middle of it. Forcing me to figure this out sooner, rather than later.


Because I knew I was pulling the doors off, I also decided to add the Kilmat in the door which significantly increased the time it took to do this but I wanted to do it.

 

Did a little photo shoot the other day

 

I always appreciate seeing some chrome!!! Nice looking truck!!!

 

Couldn't stand the yellow light in the puddle lights so I sacrificed my dome lights until I get some more bulbs via Amazon prime haha

 

Nice job on the mirrors. Where did you order the mirrors from?

 

Nicely done!!

 

Very nice! How do you like the pro comp 4”? Did you just use their spacers and such?

Love that new Tesla lookin head unit too! How is that thing holding up? Any good pro/cons with it?

 

A1auto. I linked it under the parts section. They are worth the cheaper price. Good quality, but not OEM quality. But good enough. Don't think the $800 OEM ones are worth the price over these.

 

I love it! I think it's the perfect height. Plus it allowed me to still fit in the garage. No wheel spacers. The offset covers that. Just a shock spacer on the top of the coilover that came with the kit. Was going to upgrade to fox coilover but figured I'd try this first. Still rides a Lil better than stock. Haven't been able to justify the fox shocks in my head. I would need to feel the difference in another vehicle first.

Love the head unit! Arguably my favorite upgrade. I haven't had a single issue that wasn't resolved with a reboot. The capabilities it unlocks are well worth it. There's nothing I can't do. Not to mention I have three different ways of connecting my phone and mirroring/playing what's on it. Not to mention being able to play from the app I.e. Netflix. We'll worth it.

 

Very nice build! About the AMP Power Steps: did you install yourself? If so, how was that install any specific advice or gotchas to be aware of?

 

I was going to, but I did not install them myself because 4wheelparts was doing a free install on amp steps. Looking at what they did, I still think its fairly easy. Only issue is the 18's have different wiring then the 17's. So take note of that if you have an 18 and make sure you have the correct directions.

 

D3Tundra
I have a 2016 SR5 TRD with BSM, Heat. I purchased a set of 2014 OEM Platinum mirrors with all the bells and whistles. When I plugged them up the adjustment works, the turn signal works, the heat works but I get the "Check Blind Spot Monitor, See Dealer" code on my dash. Also the BSM light does not light up on the mirror like it normal does when I turn the key on. Any Suggestions?? Thanks..

 

I had the same issue. Short term, I just turned off the BSM in the settings. The issue is the pins on the mirror don't match the ones on the truck. You have to test for the bsm signal from the truck and match/switch pins around so they match the mirror. I've been lazy and haven't done this, but I never really relied on BSM anyway. I always found myself still looking over my shoulder anyway.

 

Thanks for the reply. My OCD will make me fix this lol.

TC

 

See you went with the ProComp 4" lift. About to pull the trigger on mine. Just wondering if you could share your experience with it now that you've had it for a while?

 

Still love it! I haven't had a higher lift, but coming from a level, I still think its the most practical lift especially if you do some towing/hauling (aka use your truck haha) every now and then. The only reason I see to go with a higher lift is if you want to put on 37's.

 

Did you ever figure this out? I tried with one mirror and got the same dash error. I’m going to try again this weekend and do both, and see if it’ll avoid the BSM error. My 2016 has BSM but I want to add folding tow mirrors with BSM.

 

What lights did you use for your amp steps?