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Front and Rear Differential Oil Change

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by Part_time, Oct 12, 2019.

  1. Oct 12, 2019 at 5:08 PM
    #1
    Part_time

    Part_time [OP] Not a new member

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    Anyone one this forum change their own FWD and Rear Differential Oil. If so can you let me know which weight oil and pump you used. Any helpfull hints, want to get done by next Saturday. Did you change out the original washers. How about lock tight. I like to do my own maintenance but have not done this before, so what ever you got please let me know.

    Thanks
     
    Wallygator likes this.
  2. Oct 12, 2019 at 5:10 PM
    #2
    Mr Badwrench

    Mr Badwrench New Member

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    For the love of god, do not use locktite on those fill/drain plugs.
     
  3. Oct 12, 2019 at 8:38 PM
    #3
    Part_time

    Part_time [OP] Not a new member

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    How about new washers?
     
  4. Oct 12, 2019 at 9:15 PM
    #4
    Scuba

    Scuba Sober member

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    New washers are always recommended. Does everyone replace them every time? No. Does everyone who doesn’t replace them have leaks? No. Are you more likely to get a leak reusing a washer? Yes.
     
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  5. Oct 12, 2019 at 10:05 PM
    #5
    Part_time

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    What brand of oil would you recommend.
     
  6. Oct 12, 2019 at 10:23 PM
    #6
    computeruser6

    computeruser6 Gott Mit Uns

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    I use 85W-140 in the rear and 80W-90 or 75W-90 in the front. What type of a climate do you live in?
     
  7. Oct 13, 2019 at 5:04 AM
    #7
    Bear

    Bear Fargin' Iceholes

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    Manual calls for 75w85. Good luck finding THAT anywhere but a dealership for $35+ a quart.

    Went with 75w90. Synthetic. No pump needed for me due to the 6” lift. I used a $3 bottle/hose adapter.

    For the love of god, do NOT use lock tite!!!
     
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  8. Oct 13, 2019 at 7:29 AM
    #8
    Mr Badwrench

    Mr Badwrench New Member

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    I generally don't. I have had good luck reusing mine.

    I use Valvoline non-synthetics, they are cheap and easy to find. In the differentials, use hypoid gear oil, it will be marked on the container.

    As mentioned above, get an oil pump. You can buy one at any auto parts store, they are about $11 if I remember correctly. The pump is just a small PVC, hand actuated pump that screws into the top of the gear oil containers. You can do without the pump in a pinch, but you will have to get a piece of flexible hose and put it on top of the spout on the oil containers and squeeze the oil into the differentials.

    Another consideration, and this is pretty important... ALWAYS remove the fill plug BEFORE you remove the drain plug. It would be quite a mess to drain the oil only to realize you can't put new oil back in.

    Fill to the plug level, or slightly below. Don't overfill, if your differential breathers ever become clogged you will develop leaks.
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2019
  9. Oct 14, 2019 at 6:13 PM
    #9
    Haggis777

    Haggis777 I.L.J.C.M.L.

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    LEDs interior & exterior, stubby antenna, Bak-Flip cover, 285's, AGM battery, block heater, Pine tree air freshener
    Did mine in May. Piece of cake.
    Did A LOT of research. Use these fluids. Shop around for the best price:
    Screenshot_20191008-201729.jpg

    Ravenol J1C1003 SAE 75W Manual Transmission Fluid - MTF-3 Full Synthetic

    Red Line 75W85 Limited Slip Synthetic Gear Oil
     
  10. Oct 14, 2019 at 6:27 PM
    #10
    Scuba

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    Nice chart. :thumbsup:
     
  11. Oct 14, 2019 at 6:53 PM
    #11
    Stumpjumper

    Stumpjumper New Member

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    Never changed washers on Tacomas or Tundra and never had a leak
     
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  12. Oct 14, 2019 at 7:12 PM
    #12
    TundraMcGov.

    TundraMcGov. Your friend. Your foe. Not yo Ho.

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    Did mine (rear & front) three months ago.

    Be on level ground.

    Get a $10 hand transfer pump. Got mine at Lowes.

    Redline 75W90 full synthetic.

    Reused the washers.

    For the love of the devil don't use thread locker.
     
  13. Oct 14, 2019 at 7:17 PM
    #13
    duece292

    duece292 Appalachian American

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    75W85 is what Toyota calls for but finding it can be tough. Although Redline, which is excellent oil, is becoming more readily available. 75W90 works just fine for most of us. I run Valvoline SynPower 75W90 in mine. I also replace the washers every time. A washer kit is $11, just replace them. Follow the specs that @Haggis777 posted, he's spot on. DO NOT use lock-tite. DO crack open your fill plugs before removing your drain plugs. You don't want to find out you cant get a fill plug out after you've drained your diff.
     
  14. Oct 14, 2019 at 7:49 PM
    #14
    Scuba

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    [​IMG]
     
  15. Oct 14, 2019 at 8:03 PM
    #15
    lewi3069

    lewi3069 New Member

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  16. Oct 15, 2019 at 2:59 AM
    #16
    Haggis777

    Haggis777 I.L.J.C.M.L.

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    Thank you, but I stole with pride.
    One of our Tundra brethren posted it a week or two ago and I just happen to have it handy.
    He DID layout a nice chart for this task!!!
     
    Henry1jg likes this.
  17. Oct 15, 2019 at 5:07 PM
    #17
    Part_time

    Part_time [OP] Not a new member

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    Transfer case 75W ???
     
  18. Oct 15, 2019 at 5:25 PM
    #18
    lewi3069

    lewi3069 New Member

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    True story, although there is some debating if Ravenol is the same as the Toyota branded fluid or if they have more additives in the factory fluid as it is more expensive than gold.
     
  19. Oct 15, 2019 at 8:27 PM
    #19
    Part_time

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  20. Oct 16, 2019 at 4:56 PM
    #20
    Part_time

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  21. Oct 16, 2019 at 7:52 PM
    #21
    Part_time

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    Ok got Lucas 75-90. Crush washers making my own pump and lock tight thanks for all the info
     
  22. Oct 16, 2019 at 8:35 PM
    #22
    lewi3069

    lewi3069 New Member

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    I'm currently in Pewaukee, WI, but I just have them ship directly to you. It usually arrives in 2-3 days.

    "Free standard ground shipping for orders of $350 or more on products. If the order total is less than $350, a flat shipping rate of $11.99 applies."
     
  23. Oct 17, 2019 at 12:17 PM
    #23
    Scuba

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    No no no. DO NOT USE LOCKTITE. That would be a very bad idea.
     
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  24. Oct 18, 2019 at 2:49 PM
    #24
    Glockmeister

    Glockmeister New Member

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    Ha! I was there just last month. :cheers:
     
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  25. Oct 19, 2019 at 6:26 PM
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    Part_time

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    Thanks for your help guys mission accomplished
     
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  26. Oct 19, 2019 at 6:28 PM
    #26
    Part_time

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    Oh by the way this is what I made up for refill60ED07B2-39A1-49CF-A3A0-76AF2790E2C1.jpg
     
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  27. Nov 17, 2019 at 9:17 AM
    #27
    Part_time

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    I changed my transfer case oil yesterday. Everything I saw and read said I should be removing a 24 mm bolt, which crush washer. But this is what I had instead. Wondering if anyone else had this.84656ECB-BA25-43E8-BBD7-06E92E0B311E.jpg A plug with pipe dope on it, can’t torque it so I marked it applied Teflon tape and reused. Might go by some 24 mm bolts for it on the next change. But I would say no previous leaks or current leaks. Used 3/8 ratchet extension to remove and replace
     
  28. Nov 17, 2019 at 5:07 PM
    #28
    Glockmeister

    Glockmeister New Member

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    Yep, that’s your X-fer case plug.
    They’re like that in the later years. Personally, there’s no way I would change it, if it was supposed to be a bolt it would have been. It works so I’m not messing with it.
    Just MHO, I didn’t stay at Holiday Inn Express, YMMV
     
    Part_time[OP] likes this.
  29. Nov 18, 2019 at 6:20 AM
    #29
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Case drain plugs have tapered pipe threads, which are self-sealing as they are tightened. I have never seen teflon paste or tape used on any drain plugs from the factory.

    If you have a problem drain plug that always leaks, then I don't suppose teflon paste will hurt anything, but thread sealant on case drains is typically unnecessary. I would worry that the addition of sealant could affect the delicate balance between over-tightening and leaking. Better to install the drain bolt like they did at the factory with trace remnant of lube, new washer, and torque to spec.

    On threaded pipe connections, pipe dope or tape is used more to reduce the friction in the threads to achieve maximum engagement/maximum sealing rather than acting as a sealant. That's why pipe dope/tape is made out of Teflon. Maximum engagement is not desired in the case of drain bolts. I've read numerous threads of owners rounding out the recess in that plug you're holding after someone has over-tightened.

    Sorry to contribute this after the fact...just saw the thread. Maybe it will help the next owner changing his diff lubes. :(
     
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  30. Nov 18, 2019 at 7:49 AM
    #30
    Part_time

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    I only tighten up to the tape to mimic what was previously done thanks for the input
     

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