What to look at buying a 1st gen ('02) Tundra V8

My buddy just inherited some money and decided he wanted an upgrade to his V8 '02 Tundra. This is almost impulse buy territory for me at $3,000 CAD (friend price). I've been lamenting some of the space and power concerns of my '97 Nissan D21 4cyl (240,000 km / 149,000 miles, lots of panel rust - otherwise mostly ok), but I could probably sell it for $2,000 min where I live.

He is not, by any means, mechanically inclined so it's hard to really get a read on how much work it might need but he bought it from his parents so I'd expect a minimum amount of care has been taken. He just did "new front brake pads and rotors, new exhaust and muffler, new drive belt last year, new winter tires" to sell it. It has 297,000km on the clock (185,000 miles)

Through Google I've found some threads with good info on first gen Tacos but Tundras not so much. Frame rust and brake issues seem to be the big things to look at so hopefully they're ok - I'm not sure what the status of the frame recall in Canada is but I can try pull the VIN tomorrow. Also maybe a bit of a bummer if it only has a 4spd but it's probably close to fuel economy to my Nissan anyway (~14L/100km / 16mpg).

Just trying to weigh up the extra power & space, slightly newer truck, similar parts availability but an extra 57,000 km / 36,000 miles on the clock.

Thanks, hopefully I didn't miss a good thread here while Googling.

 

I think you'll love the tundra. I would ask if the rear diff fluid and trans fluid has been done before and when. Then ask the same about the timing belt and water pump and spark plugs.
That mileage is actually not bad, it's just getting broken in.

 

I'll ask if he knows or has a service history but my hunch would be that that info isn't available. Fluid drains and spark plugs are no big deal - I have access to a shop with a lift and ProDemand (as long as I finish whatever job I'm doing overnight) and I'm reasonably handy (not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination though). I've done plenty of fan/alternator/accessory belts before so I'd have to look at the procedure but I could maybe do a timing belt myself, adding the water pump might be tough time wise.

 

It'll need lower ball joints as well. Not hard to do with some tools and a tie rod puller. Go OEM.

 

You think OEM is significantly better than something like Moog? I can probably get the Moogs way cheaper through the parts shop we use at work.

 

DO NOT use Moog ball joints. Just don't. You can go aftermarket on some of the other parts but not the ball joints.

 

OK good to know. I might not even buy this truck but it's certainly looking appealing right now. If his buyer this evening falls through I'm next in line and I'll probably take the risk.

 

Yes...OEM is far better than aftermarket (in this instance). If the joint fails the spindle swings free, so you want the absolute best available. There was a recall on them so if they haven't been done you might get them for free from the dealer. Otherwise replace them and they should be good for another 90K.

 

Timing belt history is a big one. If it hasn't been done, you are looking at another $800 to have a shop do it.

Of course all the little things mentioned already (diff's, tcase, trans, engine oil, etc) but those are really cheap and easy to do yourself if they are due. Since the front brakes were just done, check the rears for leaking wheel cylinders and warping.

 

With every risk there can be a reward and a 2002 that's in halfway decent shape is not much of a risk !

With minimum maintenance, you might not find much but 1 suggestion would be to create an account at Toyota.com, input the VIN # and you will see what was done at a Toyota dealership, if any.

https://www.toyota.com/owners/register

I'd also suggest logging into Toyotas Recall page, input VIN# and see what recalls have been performed.

https://www.toyota.com/recall

 

Good ideas, hopefully it works somewhat in Canada too? I need to get the VIN anyway for an insurance quote, if my premium skyrockets that would be a real stick in the spokes.