Upgrading component speakers....question

i am in the process of upgrading my stock speakers to components....I got the jbl6500c for the fronts and actually had a pair of infinity ref5020cx lying around from my 4Runner that I never installed. I have ordered the speaker adapters and wiring harnesses for the speakers.

So my question is, where is everyone mounting the component crossover boxes? There doesn’t seem to be much room behind the door panel anywhere. Is there a recommended location to mount the box and a recommended way to mount it?

Or the better question is.....do I even install the crossover box if I am only using the stock stereo?

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7pGLymLBcg

right under the metal bracket

 

Ok saw that after I posted and am going to order the bracket from *********. Just like the idea of a clean and stable install. I am a bit confused....let’s see if I have this right.

It is my understanding that the stock head unit runs the tweeter and the stock amp runs the woofers. So how would I install these? I assume you wire from the woofer factory harness to the crossover input and then out to the woofer and tweeter connections from the crossover. I want to keep the stock location of the tweeter so I won’t be using the sail panel. I will run the wires through the door boot and up the dash.....but I will have to clip the factory harness and attach to the new tweeter. Does anyone know what color wires on the tweeters are positive and negative?

 

that's exactly how you would wire them. i believe the silver wire is neg and the silver with red stripe is pos

 

I spoke to a crutchfield tech this morning. He stated that in order to install components in the front doors / dash, you have to clip the dash tweeter wire and run it to the crossover that you mount to the door. From the crossover, you will run new ouput wires to the tweeter and woofer.

In the rear doors, you clip the signal wire before it splits to the woofer and tweeter. Extend that wire to the crossover input and then run from the crossover out to tweeter and woofer.

He stated almost every other manufacturer sends the signal through the woofer so it is much easier to install with other companies. But Toyota wires from the tweeter down which means you have to tap into that in order to receive full signal range.

Does this sound correct?

 

I installed Infinity Kappas and used adapter from Crutchfield to power xover box and woofer/tweeter. I put my tweeters in sails and did not touch dash. I later installed an amp. Sound was ok but even the efficient Infinitys did not have enough power with factory amp. I don't even hear the speakers in dash so no sense messing with them.

 

Thanks for your response. I am wondering if the lack of sound is because the wiring is different with the Toyotas. Almost every other auto company send the full speaker signal to the woofer and then separates to tweeter. Toyota, for some reason, sends the full signal to the tweeter and then to woofer.

Because of this, the premade wiring harnesses that everyone uses are manufactured to split the signal from the woofer to the crossover and then we run new wires out of the crossover to the tweeter and woofer. I am wondering if you split the tweeter wire and run to the input of the crossover and then out to the woofer and tweeter if it would sound better.

I think that's the way I am going to try it. It stands to reason that this could be the cause of lack of sound quality coming from the speakers after swapping.

Eventually I would love to add an amplifier, but that will come later down the line​

 

The wiring in these Tundra's are tricky. Just adding new component speakers will not get you the sound quality you expect from the upgrade. From my understanding, the sound is routed through the factory amp. For some reason the tweeters are wired differently. Just swapping out speakers using wiring harnesses, and the crossover won't work. I ended up adding two amps, replaced all of the door speakers, replaced the Sub, and added a sound processor. All of that included all new speaker wiring.

 

I realize it’s a niche market but someone way smarter than me should make a plug and play harness that takes into account the tundra wiring intricacies. I would be first in line to buy them at a premium price.

 

Spent a couple hours today installing the jbl6500c component speakers in the rear doors. Huge upgrade. I had done infinity ref5020’s earlier in the week but wasn’t happy with the sound. The 6.5” speakers are much better.

So after researching I am of the opinion that upgrading the front door speakers and dash speakers are quite complicated.....there are very few 2 ohm speakers out there which is apparently what you need for the fronts. I am looking at the cdt audio speakers.

6.5" CDT Audio 2 Ohm Coaxial Speaker Pair CL-6EX.2

https://www.amazon.com/CDT-Audio-Co...ocphy=9007791&hvtargid=pla-568831963620&psc=1

From everything I have read, the only way to improve sound without investing a lot of money is to stay with 2-3 ohm speakers using the stock system. I am thinking about trying these in the front doors and trying to figure out the dash at a later time.

 

How did you guys keep the crossovers on the door? Adhesive or zip ties?

 

3m VHB tape

 

I have that tape. Did you just put it on the plastic? I would think it would just be banging around in there if that was the case.

 

I am thinking of cutting slits in the plastic and just using zip ties around the crossover but I am open to other suggestions. If the tape won't create an issue with the crossover moving around with the plastic then I will go that route.

 

No, go to the metal. just cut the tape sized holes in the plastic

 

Screw that! I just ran ALL NEW 100% oxygen free copper throughout. Do it right the first time!

 

I used industrial strength velcro:

$18 VELCRO Brand Heavy Duty Tape with Adhesive | 15 Ft x 2 In | Holds 10 lbs, Black | Industrial Strength Roll, Cut Strips to Length | Strong Hold for Indoor or Outdoor Use, 15ft x 2in

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006RSP1/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

The shit holds like welded steel.

 

I used self tappers on mine. I don't want something coming loose in the door and have to take it apart to fix.

 

Never put passive x-overs in the doors!
Everytime you slam the door, you are slamming your x-overs!!! If you have to, then wrap some foam around them, and give them a chance.

I 100% agree with
@preacher35