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2013 Toyota Tundra Brake Bleeding

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by SamuelJerome, Sep 17, 2019.

  1. Sep 17, 2019 at 10:54 PM
    #1
    SamuelJerome

    SamuelJerome [OP] New Member

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    Hi! I’m new to changing brakes, so please go easy on me. So I recently bought new brake pads for my Tundra. In the process of trying to push the caliper pistons in, I accidentally punctured a seal, so brake fluid started to spray out of the new hole I made.

    So me being me, I didn’t know what to do, so I purchased a new brake caliper. I installed it correctly, put the pads in, and now discovered I need to bleed the brakes.

    Here’s my question, since the brake fluid drained from the line, do I need to go through and bleed each brake assembly individually? Or can I just bleed the current brake caliper and not worry about the others? Any advice helps!
     
  2. Sep 18, 2019 at 4:02 AM
    #2
    MacCTD

    MacCTD New Member

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    I would just bleed the caliper you replaced, I recently replaced all my calipers and vacuum bled them all with a vacuum pump I bought at Harbor Freight, one tip take out the bleeder and coat the threads with grease otherwise air will get through the threads and make it much slower. Just keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder and add as you go.
     
    Watt maker likes this.
  3. Sep 18, 2019 at 4:21 AM
    #3
    timsp8

    timsp8 Former Tundra owner for 13 years

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    Should’ve have to redo them all, but it wouldn’t hurt if done right. Start with passenger rear - farthest from MC.
     
    15whtrd likes this.
  4. Sep 18, 2019 at 10:16 AM
    #4
    Scuba

    Scuba Sober member

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    I agree. You should be able to get away with just the 1.
    However, if it was me, I’d grab a partner and flush the whole system.
     
    15whtrd likes this.
  5. Sep 18, 2019 at 11:32 AM
    #5
    Bucktail

    Bucktail New Member

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    I had to change out the drivers front caliber a few months ago. I didn’t bleed the whole system, only that caliber.
     
  6. Sep 18, 2019 at 12:43 PM
    #6
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    TRD Pro suspension, +2 Coachbuilder shackles, 2015 TRD Pro headlights, 20% ceramic tinted windows, clear ceramic tinted front windshield, aFe drop in pro s dry air filter, TRD airflow accelerator, TRD oil fill cap, TRD 18 psi radiator cap, BDX Bullydog tuner, Weathertech floor mats front and rear, rear seat fold down mod, DNA hard trifold tonneau cover, Linex with uv protection, TRD rear swaybar, TRD center caps, TRD Pro grille insert with color matching surround and bulge, TRD PRO headlights, aluminum oil filter canister, Real truck tailgate seal, Pop-n-lock tailgate lock actuator, rear diff breather relocate, RCI front skid plate. 275/70 R18 BFG KO2s
    Same. I still like to do it old-school with a partner. I always have a wife come out and be the pedal man LOL
     
  7. Sep 18, 2019 at 2:11 PM
    #7
    MacCTD

    MacCTD New Member

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    I would use the vacuum method, much safer as there is little chance of damaging the ABS system.
     
  8. Sep 18, 2019 at 2:58 PM
    #8
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    I’ll have to look into one.

    I’ve always done the two-man method. Also I put something under the brake pedal so it’s only being pressed in it’s typical throw pattern.
     
  9. Sep 18, 2019 at 3:44 PM
    #9
    MacCTD

    MacCTD New Member

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    This is the one I used, I have had it for years still works very well,
     
    15whtrd likes this.

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