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Another Brake thread

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by tundraman24, Sep 16, 2019.

  1. Sep 16, 2019 at 7:26 AM
    #1
    tundraman24

    tundraman24 [OP] New Member

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    I’ve been digging through lots of old posts about this and need some help regarding my brakes.
    I recently put bigger tires and added billstein 5100s on middle setting.
    My 2011 truck has 113000 miles on it and I’ve added new pads about 13000 miles ago. Suffice to say I don’t feel like the stopping power is there.

    Question-
    If I add powerstop z36 pads and rotors will it make a difference keeping the OEM calipers...any advantage to upgrading calipers other than looks?

    Please advise.
     
  2. Sep 16, 2019 at 7:32 AM
    #2
    Mnorris1206

    Mnorris1206 Super white is fast as f***

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    6" lift kit 35" tires with cold air intake and exhaust
    I just replaced all my brakes. With Wagner I'm on 35s and my truck is a long bed. I cant complain at all with the stopping power. As close to oem as I could get I think.
     
  3. Sep 16, 2019 at 7:33 AM
    #3
    Mnorris1206

    Mnorris1206 Super white is fast as f***

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    6" lift kit 35" tires with cold air intake and exhaust
    One more thing tundra brakes are one of the best out there as far as trucks go. I think
     
  4. Sep 16, 2019 at 7:38 AM
    #4
    Tundra234

    Tundra234 New Member

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    Alot of them
    They will work with the oem calipers. However, I didn't notice any difference in stopping power with my PowerStops.
     
  5. Sep 16, 2019 at 7:41 AM
    #5
    tundraman24

    tundraman24 [OP] New Member

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    So maybe just get new oem rotors and pads?
    My rotors look like hell
     
  6. Sep 28, 2019 at 6:47 PM
    #6
    careyrob

    careyrob In the field

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    2008 Crewmax TRD 4x4 Silver
    LRO 3/1 leveling lift 35x12.50's on 20x9's Hellwig rear sway bar B&M 70264 SuperCooler Transmission Cooler Firestone airbags Daystar cradles Air Lift WirelessONE Compressor System
    It only makes a difference under heavy, frequent use like on mountain down hill sections while towing. Conditions where the OEM brakes are most likely to get hot and start fading because the brake fluid starts to boil.

    The cross-drilling and slotting are for cooling the disc and venting the gasses produced by your pads when they start over heating.

    Under normal driving conditions they won't have any noticeable impact. That's been my experience with them anyway.
     
    Toyotoholic likes this.

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