Audio install nightmare...

Checking your install out, I am guessing that the AudioControl LCQ-1 LOC/EQ does the same as the JL fix86?

 

I believe i have a picture of the wiring for the fix86 in my build thread.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/the-stereo-slow-build-begins.17397/page-3#post-419444

You just use the input wires from where the factory amp is for the inputs on the Fix86. James makes an adapter, so you dont have to cut any harnesses off. Then you use RCA's to go from the output of the fix86 to your amp(s).
You should really get ahold of james and describe to him what you are trying to get and what you already have. I've never used a

$315 Rockford Fosgate DSR1 8-Channel Interactive Signal Processor w/Integrated iDatalink Maestro Module

Rockford Fosgate DSR1, but i know he sells a lot of them. It may be a better option for you, but i went 100% JL Audio, so it was an easy choice for me.

 

Sent James a summed up description of my problem

I also took the plastic panel off under the passenger seat and can see two inexpensive looking RCA converters spliced into (what I am guessing) is the stock amp. Not sure why this modified my bass sound/output on the Precision Power amp on the other side of the car. Learn something new everyday.

 

Can you post a picture of what you are working with?

 

This is what I see:

 

The two RCA adapters seen there must have been made in order to supply the Alpine Amp with Inputs (obviously) although Im not sure why doing this somehow trashed the other RCA connection that goes to the subwoofers, the subwoofers are acting like mids/loudspeakers.

 

I'm curious if there is a frequency cutoff that was used for the sub and they bypassed or adjusted it for the mids/highs and now the subs are just getting the mid/high frequencies.

 

Yikes!

Looks like you have some work to do.

Best thing from here is to START OVER.

Pull everything out and take notes as to what they did. Listen to feedback/advice from James and take on this easy process. You can do this, and you can do much better than they did. But be careful, you might get addicted! IMHO.... Simpler is better. A good head unit (stock is junk), you have a clean amp, and good speakers. This should get you where you need to be. Tuning the system is a whole other beast. If your settings are off your system will sound like doodoo. We all here can help with those. Good luck.

...and welcome to the forum!

 

that little box is a Line Out Converter
Takes speaker level signal and turns it into RCA.

Did you hear back from James?

 

I left my OEM head unit and installed a Taco Tunes 5 channel amp, Infinfinty Kappa x overs, and a Rockford sub. Sounds great to me but maybe my ears are not as good as your . Never could get the Taco Tunes tuning download to work so I just tuned by ear. That is the way we did it in the old days.

 

Its all outta whack. I traced the RCA coming off the Precision Power amp (the amp powering the subs) and it is still connected to the original RCA cables running down my driver side.

Yes he responded quickly, he was in/near the hurricane and will get back to me in a few days. Solid guy to respond in all that stress!

 

Thank you

And yes, I think I am starting the wiring over from scratch myself, hopefully I am able to salvage something(?) :shrugs:

 

I agree.
I'm still tuning my system!
...and I only use my ears too. Everyone has a different level of reference for what "sounds good" to them. Most people will get 65-75% potential from a basic upgraded system (like yours) and it will be a big improvement over the 50-60% potential of the OEM system, and therefore be 100% acceptable and satisfactory for the mild investment ($1500-2k).
For others, there is the need for 75-85% potential based on a listening reference of higher quality reproduction. To get here, environmental control becomes necessary to factor in and sound deadening, sound proofing, and acoustical treatments are mildly involved. This usually will increase budget 300% ($5000+ for full system), and go up from there.
Then you have the 85-95% systems. These are the highest quality available components (my front speakers are $2k) , usually custom fabricated designs and speakers placement. Full acoustical treatments to all materials, surfaces, sub-surfaces, and enclosures. There is extensive time taken into getting everything just right and more often than not these systems are around or above $10k in cost. Not to mention an incalculable #of hours in time. I easily have 300+hours of time into my system and I'm still tuning.

The 95%+ club is reserved for competition vehicles. Sparing no expense to get the absolute best, no compromises. Cost no object, whatever it takes to win.

Bottom line is what sounds good to you. I would probably sit in your truck and enjoy the system too, because anything is better than the stock crap. That's what I'm saying for the OP... It doesn't have to be a $5k system to sound good, it just needs to be executed correctly, and I feel this is very possible for him to do himself.

 

You will surprise yourself as you get into it and don't worry, we all make mistakes... that's how we learn!

Just saw this too
https://www.tundras.com/threads/fs-...-stealth-box-taco-tunes-speaker-mounts.52585/

Some good stuff here if you need any of it

 

Ugh! Thats the problem. those installers didn't know what the hell they were doing. Once james gets back to you, hopefully it will just be a take out the seat and patch the DSR1 in place while getting rid of those junk line converters.

 

Here's the recipe for a tundra stereo (assuming you want to keep your factory head unit)
-Disconnect the dash tweeters (you don't need them)
-6.5" components on front and back with tweeter in your preferred location (sail pannel for me, rears have a pocket for them)
-removing factory amp, using inputs from factory amp and put in a dsp (fix86 or dsr1)
-find a good 5-ch amp (100x4 + 500x1) use RCA's outputs from dsp to the amp. Use factory wiring that goes to the speaker doors for the output from the amp.
-your subs should be good. Just connect them to the mono channel of the amp.
-enjoy your tunes.

There's some things you will need to figure out, like if the amp wiring they installed is good and how your door speakers are looking. There are some minor variations, like using the money that you would use on a dsp and put it towards a new head unit. And using two separate amps instead of a 5ch.

If you are trying to do something else, you are wasting your time trying to put lipstick on a pig. Just wait for James to set you up. We all here (and James) can help you through the install. Not difficult at all.

 

Thanks for all the tips Danimal, I will wait for James and then will be ordering one of the two recommended DSPs. I will definitely post updates

 

@Danimal86 I keep going through your install thread, good stuff. It is pretty much identical to what I will be going through. What is the L-pak you installed last? I have a couple 3d printers so it's nice to see your 3d printed mounts for the tweeters!

 

If you are going to keep your head unit, you gotta have a dsp. James will steer you in the direction that is right for you. If you go with the fix86, you have to get the drc knob. You are supposed to use it as the master volume, and keep your head unit at 70% volume. That way there is no background noise. If the RF will accomplish that without messing with a knob, I would go with that.

So the Lpac is just a stereo (2ch) potentiometer. From the factory, the dash tweeters are powered by the head unit itself (not through the amp), so for me, there was a volume difference between the door speakers that were being powered by the jl amp, and the tweeters that were being powered by the HU. I could have gotten away with keeping them disconnected, but when tech12volt released their 3d printed dash speaker kit, I had to get it.
I powered it from the front channels on the jl amp, and they were so loud it hurt. I talked with James about it and he recommended the lpak. I designed a mount and printed it.
Was able to set the dash tweeter level independently of the rest of the front channel. Easy peasy.

 

I did a pretty budget friendly install in my 16 TRD Pro. i got alot of information from @TundraTex & @GNTundra. Check out my build thread. I still have not installed my door speakers and kinda wish I had gone 10" instead of 8".. but everything sounds good and I didn't butcher my factory wiring harness.

 

Any update?

 

Negative, I've received some brief exchanges with James, but he may be busy for a while.

 

Well keep us updated.

He is a busy man, i usually give him a couple days to respond, then I'll send a reminder

 

I have a hunting trip coming up. Not having a stereo for the long road trip ahead isn't an option. So...new head unit seems to be the most logical and quickest method to achieve what I am aiming for.

Any good recommendations that can tie into the existing backup cam? I have Nav but it is utter rubbish so I don't mind if I lose it. Harness kit to make it plug and play would be great.

 

To replace the stereo you have a couple different options for interface modules. The most common is probably the iDatalink Maestro RR with T02 harness. The other option is the PAC Audio RadioPro 4.

The Maestro should retain your factory back up cam out of the box, where as the PAC unit I'm pretty sure requires an additional harness and a 12v > 6v step down.

 

I know it's been a while. Amazingly I have gone this entire time without playing my stereo in the truck. I ordered a ********* Recurve EZQ and Infinity components for the front and rear, as this seemed to be the most ideal solution for me. I've been very busy with work and haven't had the time to install it until today... however I ran into an install issue pretty quickly. I have scoured the web and watched every single one of their videos and none of them mention the wiring harness they sent me.

In all the ********* install videos it shows that there is a SINGLE set of [white, white/black, grey, grey/black] and [purple, purple/black, green, green/black] which means a TOTAL of 8 of these colored wires should be coming out of the harness (the harness they provided for my truck). My harness seems to have TWO sets coming out of the intercepting harness, a total of 16 wires, all colors basically are doubled and also...all of them are attached to 4pin molex type connectors, not bare wired and ready to go into the Recurve EZQ. I submitted a ticket of course over at *********, but it is Sunday and I've called them a few times over the last week (to ask them another install question) and was never able to get a hold of a person.

On the Recurve EZq it is very straightforward, each input is labeled for these colors, again though, only for 8 total wires, not 16. Really appreciate any help!

I have included two pictures to explain what I mean:

 

Got a hold of ********* yesterday. They said I had the wrong harness and had shipped it by accident. Today I contacted them to check if the new harness was sent out and they said that I had the correct harness and that the extra set of wires go directly to an amplifier IF I was going to use the stock Toyota speaker wiring to the door (now component) speakers (which I am not, I am wiring everything over). The cables that are meant to go to the amplifier (again, which I wont be using) can be determined because they are a slightly thicker gauge than the wires that go to the Recurve EZQ.

Wiring behind the dash is a major pain in the a**. Sure would have appreciated a heads up on the tiny little yellow clips that disappear into the dash. Toyota even designed a perfect slide for them to fall into oblivion. Luckily I have a 3d printer and doubly lucky that someone on thingiverse has uploaded a replacement toyota clip so I didn't have to make the object myself.

 

Recurve wouldn't have been my recommendation, but let us know how it works out.

 

I agree, a new headunit with all the adapters to get my steering wheel buttons to work with it would have been the best and easiest option for me. This install and tuning is overboard. So many regrets....

 

Did you look into the fix86 or Dsr1?