Audio install nightmare...

I am having an audio install nightmare on my 2016 Tundra Limited crewmax. I was reading about another forum member here having a similar issue.

I disliked the paper-ish sound of my Tundra's stock system. I did not get the JBL anything upgrade. I went to a shop and the installer recommended only to add subs to the stock head unit. He says the mids and highs on this truck are "a pain to get right" and several times leans towards "I just don't want to do a mid's and high's install". He installs a Precision power black ice amp and 3x MTX 8'' (parallel(?)) subs behind the seats. It hits hard and clean but the bass easily drowns out the very lacking mids and highs.

I call around for shops that had specifically worked on Tundras, specifically installs for the mids and highs. I get a shop that sounds like they might know what they are doing. They have a decent online reviews. I drop my truck off. Mid day the shop calls and tries to upsell me on speakers, saying that I should spend another $450 to get "the top of the line components". I decline. They install an Alpine MRV f300 4 channel amp and replace the door speakers in the front and rear with Pioneers. When I pick up my truck it sounds absolutely terrible. I mean utter rubbish. The subwoofers now sounds as if they are loudspeakers and adjusting anything on the Precision power amp has little effect on improving the quality. The mids and highs just sound louder but they sound like just utter poo poo. The shop was closing as I picked the truck up. I called the shop the following day and they were closed early for a holiday. I called mid week after the holiday and the installer who worked on my system isn't available to help me with my system. After two weeks of calling for the guy simply to get advice, I finally get: "you paid for speakers and we installed speakers, you should have taken the upgraded speakers we recommended".

I go to another shop that "focuses on high end cars". The super seemuh trophy carshow winning guy says that I need a $1500 DSP (and "only this DSP will work") and that the second installer must have incorrectly split the signal coming from the headunit. He recommends a $5500 foCAL component system if I want it to sound "decent" but says I should go higher...and shows me a webpage with car speakers that literally cost more than my truck. So $7k just to get mids and highs sounding "decent" didn't really sell me. Needless to say I didn't pull the trigger on it.

I am guessing the second installer had to (obviously) split the RCA red/white cables somewhere in order to provide a signal to the (new) Alpine 4 channel amp. Doing this somehow trashed my sub signal. I could use some audio upgrade advice and help.

I am in the Northwest US, you can PM me for exact coordinates. Any help is much appreciated.

 

Any particular reason you didn't try a plug n play system? They make some specifically for this truck.

 

Upgraded speakers has absolutely nothing to do with a shit install. Maybe it would be better to redo it yourself. Youtube and browsing the audio section here.

 

While they are an upgrade from the stock system, I wasn't satisfied with the intensity at high volumes from the JBL system and the ********* systems that I’ve heard.

 

Totally able to, and it is headed in that direction. Would love recommendations on signal splitting from the stock head unit and mids/highs speakers.

 

Built my first system w/ an Aftermarket Radio, 4ch amp, 1 mono amp for my sub and rewired the entire system. The second time around I went with a plug n play system, which I have to do again.

 

I used a

$129 AudioControl LC7I 6-Channel Line Output Converter with AccuBASS

AudioControl LC7I on my first build so I could use the speaker level outputs which seem cleaner than the RCA lines. o

 

I replaced all my speakers and tweeters and added 2 12” subs along with 2 1000 watt amps .... did the trick. Kept my stock head unit.

 

I have had nothing but compliments on my ********* setup, I used everything except their speakers. I went with aftermarket JBL's 2-12 (300w RMS 500w max) subs and component front and rear. When i turned system near max and the bass all the way up, at Idle you could see the volts dip. Wouldn't do it at cruising speeds or above 1000 rpm. The bass never overpowered the sound of the door speakers but complimented it.

There is a lot of information on the internet on how to build almost any type of system, just have to find what you like and what your budget allows.

 

Yes, unless you have a DSP the thing will sound like shit. The problem is now, you have to go back and figure out the rats nest of how those guys installed the stuff. James can probably help you get a DSR1 for a few hundred and at least get it done correctly.

 

Had jls all around installed and kept the hu.
Install was another 500 but sounds perfect

 

Welcome from NY.

 

So you dont have the JBL system correct? If not the easiest would be upgrade the deck.

 

You're very rarely gonna get good adjustable sound levels if you only replace speakers, add subs, and add amps to a crap headunit. All sound and levels originate from the headunit. If it's shit to begin with (which the JBL is IMO) it's gonna be at the other end, no matter how many filters and crossovers you put the signal through. Upgrade your headunit to something that has infinitely adjustable levels for each speaker. Sound is very subjective, so you need the ability to adjust it yourself. I like the Kenwood headunits. They're a bit cumbersome to get the levels right, but once you do, you'll be rockin. You've got the speaker and amp setup. Now you need the brains of the operation. Good luck. I've been there.

 

Sounds as if you should spend time researching and find a stereo shop you can trust to redo your install.

 

damn, dude.... that sucks.

I installed a plug-and-play system for about $1500. checkout my install thread:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/*********-system-1b-detailed-installation-and-reviews.29358/

 

I installed the OEM Audio system. Couldn't be happier.

 

this sucks OP. Unfortunately, at this point you might be better off starting over and re-installing everything yourself. As mentioned by another poster above, I would look into an

$129 Audiocontrol LC7i 6-Channel Line Output Converter with AccuBASS

Audiocontrol LC7i. They are cheap (between $150-$200) and make a world of difference when installing aftermarket amps/speakers while utilizing the factory HU.

What others are saying about getting an aftermarket HU is correct; however, I have zero issues running my system with factory HU. It sounds perfectly good to me. Others are quite surprised when I turn it up. I went for 2x JL 10" subs and Alpine Type R components.

 

Only way to do it right, is to do it yourself. Everyone thinks they know what they are doing, but just like your reality, they don't.
You can do this yourself, it is not rocket science. There is a ton of help here too.

 

That's the sad truth these days and I've seen it so often with stereo shops.

 

A DSP or line Convertor is highly recommended and can be added yourself for way less money than what you were quoted.

Check out my ‘16 Audio install thread for some additional info.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/tundratex-2016-crewmax-audio-build.7394/

Good luck!

 

The problem is the people that use them don't know how to do the install themselves and they get taken advantage of. I have done several including my Tundra. It is not that difficult especially in today's world. Crutchfield and other sources are your friends.

 

Lc7i is a good, i went with the JL Fix86 for my dsp. Its a little more money (i think around $300), but it will automatically flatten out your sound curve that comes from the factory head unit (which is what you want to do). Another option (and may be a better one at this point), is ditch the factory head unit, and put in an aftermarket kenwood or pioneer. The factory head unit applies a sound curve to make the speakers they used sound best, you dont want that, you want flat. You would be able to accomplish that with a an aftermarket head unit, a JL Fix86, or a

$315 Rockford Fosgate Dsr1 8-Channel Interactive Signal Processor w/Integrated iDatalink Maestro Module

Rockford Fosgate Dsr1 (if you go with this, get it from tech12volt, he sets it up for you before it leaves the shop).

Like some others have said, i highly recommend talking with James Taylor at Tech12Volt (he's in Alma GA if you are close to him, just make an appt and go there). He specializes in tundra stereos, and has some killer prices too (not just for stuff on his website, he can get anything you want). I bought about 90% of my stereo from him, great guy to work with. He's a busy guy, so dont expect a novel in response or him to spend 2 hours on the phone with you, he's to the point and knows tundra stereos! His email is: tech12volt@gmail.com

It sucks that this happened. It sounds like its a little more common, shops just upsell you stuff that you gear that you've never heard of but they swear buy it (probably because its cheap shit, and they are making a killing). The best thing to do is buy your equipment and install yourself. I did my entire install in 1 day. Its not very difficult. Here's a link to my stereo build https://www.tundras.com/threads/the-stereo-slow-build-begins.17397/
couldn't be happier with the stereo.

 

Agree it isn't hard, especially now with youtube. It was harder before the internet, I remember putting Solo Barrics in my baja bug in '99 with no sort of plug in harnesses lol. I recently gave my 21 year old cousin a sub and amp, he went ahead and got door speakers and a 4 channel while he was at it. We installed all that together with me teaching him along the way. During the whole job he kept saying maybe we I'll just pay a shop, it's a lot of work. By the end he had it figured out. Now hes getting ready to uninstall that and move it to his new truck by himself. He isn't the handy type but he has the one thing it takes and that's the will to learn.

That doesn't mean when you go to one and pay for "professional install" you should accept a shit job. The trade, if we can call it that, of car audio is just so filled with hacks and that is upsetting.

OP, drop some honest yelp or google reviews on those shops for how they left you, hopefully prevent others from getting burned. Do some studying and dive in yourself, that's the best plan. You may snap a door fastener or two but your stereo will work right when you're done and you'll appreciate it more.

 

the fucking truth right there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

This device comes up towards the end of all my internet searches. It is on a list of items to research

 

Order extra door fasteners* noted lol.

Yes I am going to leave a review on Yelp.

 

The JL fix86 seems like it is exactly what I need. Looking at it online closely, (the outputs I understand go to each individual amp) I can see it has some custom adapters to plug the inputs in, where do these come from?

I am in (either) NV or CA unfortunately so tech12volt is a little out of reach.

I almost set an appointment with the Youtuber "5starCarstereo" in clearwater FL but my wife shut that ish down quickly.... but I appreciate the reply and advice.

 

Roger that, checking it out now. Thanks!

 

Thank you