Overheated - Fixed :)

Luckily I broke down in front of a towing company.
Started the day like any other and noticed the temp needle creeping past the 1/2 point which it never does. I shut her down, checked reservoir, and noticed a light plume of steam but hard to tell due to wind.
Finessed her to a gas station and filled the reservoir. Took off again and the faster I drove the higher the temp. It almost peaked to the red when I decided enough is enough.
No geyser or weird noises but was afraid of warping hear or blowing HG. So I decided to call the tow.
So, now that I'm home and checking for parts online @ toyotaofcoolsprings, what do you all think?
I'm betting on H2O pump.
Might as well re-do the entire cooling system while I'm in there. She has 220K and the sticker says timing was changed at 110K.
Thanks for allowing me to rant.

 

Do the timing belt at the same time. New t stat, hoses ect. Take out the rad and have it tested at least. Also check the fan. From what I hear it should have some resistance.

 

Should I go ALL OEM on parts? Time constraints and $ are a factor.
I'd like to get one of those timing belt kits that has all parts but not sure where to buy. Amazon?

 

Go with Aisin. They manufacture the parts for Toyota. And you can get them much cheaper.

 

Aisin TKT-021 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump

$183 AISIN TKT-021 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump - Compatible with Select Lexus GS400, GS430, GX470, LS400, LS430, LX470, SC400, SC430 Toyota 4Runner, Land Cruiser, Sequoia, Tundra

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EEYWKI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bnxCDbJTCR539

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/4-7-timing-belt.14118/

Pretty good thread here. There may be a few good ones somewhere else on the forum. I suggest going through them and making sure you’ve got all the little details. Good luck brother!

 

The good news is that since you're due for a timing kit you can replace all the coolant components as well. Not sure I agree that it's "the H2O pump". Pumps rarely fail catastrophically, they leak at the seals and weep hole, and if ignored long enough, coolant will wash out the bearings and you could get a failed impeller. I advise determining the cause of your overheating first, a head gasket leak is rare, but not unheard of in this motor. Could be corrosion in the cooling pipes or blockage in the radiator. You don't want to start up and drive down the road after a timing belt only to overheat again.

 

Yeah, before you do all that work have your coolant tested for hydrocarbons. You could easily have a headgasket leak.

 

If you're at 220k it's time to replace the radiator. I would do the serpentine belt too since it's easier with the radiator out.

 

So far I've taken the rad out and I need to replace it. The plastic collar is brittle and broke inside the rad hose. Luckily no plastic went inside and was able to retrieve all debris.
So adding to my parts basket:
1) RADIATOR:
Denso @ NAPA $216
Mishimoto @ Amazon $180
2) HOSES:
Already had upper and lower in my garage, $0
3) Aisin timing belt kit @ Amazon $169
4) Bottle of coolant $20
5) Serpentine belt, oil filters @ toyotacoolsprings $80

 

I would bleed all the coolant. I think it took 2 gallons when I did mine. There are 2 drain ports on the bottom of the engine block. You'll be surprised how much coolant comes out.
I believe it's a 10mm and you can attach a hose so you don't make a mess. Make sure you either Zerex Asian blend, or Toyota coolant.


Pics:

 

Thanks for the Zerex asian coolant tip.

 

Rockauto might have everything you want

 

If your going that deep into the motors front end just replace everything that moves. Here's a radiator that's good for a lifetime, just use proper coolant for aluminum, not Toyota coolant, and screw in an anodizer plug. https://www.championradiators.com/Toyota-Tundra-Radiator-2000-2006

 

You're going to need some Toyota gasket maker when you do your timing belt as well. And you should replace your thermostats as well.

 

Where can I purchase the "timing belt replaced at ______ mileage on _________ date " sticker?

 

Probably just easier to find a blank sticker at dollar tree and write it down.

 

Sticker came with my kit from Amazon

 

Well, orders have been made and now waiting for the delivery.
In the meantime, can someone point me towards the factory Toyota repair manual/shop manual link? I had it saved pdf on old pc but lost it. It's for a 2001.
Thanks.

 

I haven’t found a free download, but a bunch here for sale:
https://www.google.com/search?q=toy...nual&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8Cqavp2HxeVeUd3VjRvZTRjRXM/view

 

Update.
Didn't do full timing belt and H2O pump and just tackled the easy stuff first:
- New Denso rad installed
- New OEM t-stat & gasket
- New OEM upper & lower hoses
- OEM pink bubble gum coolant

Still over heats.
Also noted heater doesn't work. Just blows cool air.

Going to wait till it cools down to then add more fluid and bleed as posted by FirstGenVol posted above.

 

If your heater doesn't work, is your coolant flowing?

 

BMF,
I don't know

Also, upper hose is hot, lower hose is cold. I suppose this means the fluid is going through the radiator inlet (top), cycles through radiator, and then returning back to engine with cooler fluid via lower hose, correct?

 

Does your fan come on?

 

Sounds like either the thermostat is in wrong or the water pump isn’t pumping.

 

Is the serpentine belt on correctly?

 

Belt is on correctly.
Fan clutch has good resistance and fan is always spinning. It's an '01. Were later years electric?
T-stat installed correctly as per diagram.
Going to perform the bleed tomorrow and check in again.
Thanks for the responses.

 

My 2006 fan is belt driven

 

Correct. Having just changed my coolant, I noted the same thing with hose temps and had the same issue with heater not hot. Lower hose doesn’t get hot from just idling. I forgot to check it after extended drive but it is “supposed” to be coolish if the rad is doing its job, right? Heater started blowing hot after a short drive. I assume it just needed time to burp. Make sure there’s enough coolant in the overflow canister.