2000 Tundra TRD Body lift kit suggestion

Can anyone suggest a good body lift kit for my 2000 TRD. I just want the block lift to fit on some bigger tires. Need the blocks, clamps, hardware ect. Auto part stores here have some kits but not sure if they are junk. Thinking maybe 3" unless some better suggestions.

 

Only company I remember making a body lift kit was Performance Accessories. I believe they're no longer making it anymore.

 

It seems that the TRD package is limiting my options. The blocks can fit on the back but maybe up front is more complex.

 

Wait, suspension blocks and spacers, or a body lift? 2 entirely different things. I don’t know why TRD would make it any different for either type of lift but I’m no expert on the gen 1’s.

 

Im thinking of blocks under leaf springs. Looks easy for the rear but what to do for front.

 

that's not a body lift. Your talking about a suspension/spacer lift kit. Plenty of companies make those.

 

Ok gotcha. What is cheapest/ easiest to install? I go on sand often and some light crawling. Don't want to spend much since its an old truck, but some height be cool.

 

Fuck blocks and spacers.
You can lift your truck for cheap and still have it function right with an add a leaf instead of blocks and by upgrading your shocks to Bilstein 5100s

The front 5100s are height adjustable with I believe 4 settings. For the rear you can run 5100s or something cheaper. But I'd recommend a 3 leaf progressive add a leaf over a block or even a single AAL. is a vender here and a great place to start.

 

I checked out the 5100's from this video and have a better understanding of that option now. It seems that my model, since it is 4x4, access cab, and TRD that it can only go to the third setting according to the chart below. Actually it doesn't mention TRD but that off road package seems to have a different suspension. If I can only go to the third setting, that creates 1" front lift , is it worth it? I can get a 2.5" lift with the pro-comp spacers.

 

The 5100s require the use of a spring compressor (or compressing the spring on the truck, which I've never had luck with) to remove and install the stock coils onto. If you're not up to that, you can go on Wheelers offroad or Toytech websites and look at the other options. Pre assembled coil overs are generally a bit more expensive.

I personally do not run blocks or spacers, but have in the past, and have friends who use them and never had issues. Daystar makes a really cheap but effective spacer lift, you can probably find it on Amazon. Just ensure your upper and lower balljoints are in good condition, as any lift will strain those components.

If you're looking for a body lift, you can contact Roger Brown (https://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/ProductLine.shtml). I would stick to 1" max here.

 

You can get more than an inch from 5100s. More like 0-3 inches

 

My neighbor mechanic can install the 5100's. I think going to the third notch and a couchbuilder shim might get it level. I read people use these to reach 2.5 inches up front. Don't thing my model should go to 3". Hopefully I can get 285/75/16 or bigger on after. Maybe find some offset wheels.

 

Where are you located?

No spacer lifts!

Bilstein is pretty conservative with their lift recommendations. If you have 4wd, I’d limit the front lift to 2” max and add a diff drop kit. That should clear 285/75/16 just fine. Any higher and you start running into front CV joint issues. I did just over a 1” lift and my front CV boots quickly failed.

Checkout my build thread linked in my signature.

Good luck!

 

I live on Kauai, this truck for going on mountain trails and the beach but not looking to spend much. I want bigger AT tires. So maybe I can go to the forth setting on the 5100's and not use any cb shims? Thats 2" i believe. I would like as much height as I can without doing anything to the back for now. Maybe 5100 on the back later on.

 

How many miles on your truck?

I would skip the shim and get the lift from the 5100s, it’ll put your CV joints at the same angle. Get a diff drop kit. I ran 285/75/16 BFG KOs on my 2001 Tundra Access Cab Limited 4wd with minimal rubbing and a 1 3/4” or so lift.

 

160K but new (60K toyota refurb) engine. Also garage kept and some undercoating years back. No body rust and minimal underneath for living near the ocean. Pretty good overall except the hood clear coat needs a redo.

 

Your rear shocks may be pretty worn. You can jump on the rear bumper and if it goes up and down more then twice they’re done.

 

Yea I hauled a few loads of gravel and it was a bouncy ride.

 

On stock wheels?

 

I had the TRD Ivan Stewart wheels

 

From my research and (very limited) knowledge of the situation, I also vote for 5100s and AAL rather than spacers and blocks and stuff.

Bilstein specifically says DO NOT USE on the 4th and/or 5th circlip for a few models (see ALL CAPS part of the instructions). But...

When I was asking the same questions I heard from a lot of people that Bilstein was being conservative / cautious. In the end I split the difference and went with the 4th ring, i.e., being rebellious, but only a little.

I got mixed answers on the diff drop kit for that modest of a lift. I put it on, got weird slow pulsating vibrations around 45mph, talked around, and decided to remove the diff drop kit. Dave Ekstrom gave me some info on how to tell if the angle is sufficient to require a drop. (Not entirely sure now, but I think he said something like "if the lobes of the boot are touching at the top (where they are compressed) then it's too much" but maybe check with him to be certain.)

After removing the diff drop kit the vibrations and all went away. The boots look ok, angle-wise, and as far as all that goes - and the lift amount (around 1.5in) and ride quality, I'm happy.

I do have looseness up front, and I don't know if it is due to the shock swap, me doing the shock swap badly, the lift, or just coincidence - I'm noticing it now because I am worried about "the fourth ring" on that Bilstein.

The truck does have 110K on it, and a local guy showed me how the ball joints and stuff are very slightly worn, so maybe that's what I'm being over-sensitive to. Also going to replace the steering rack bushings and sway bar bushings and end links.

What I ended up with is:

2003 Tundra TRD 4x4 access cab

5100s up front on 4th ring
5100s rear
AAL rear
Superbumps up front

Some day I might add a Coachbuilder shim to level it right-to-left.

 

I have a little over 100k mi. I didn't feel any looseness in my front end, but since I was installing new shocks, I decided to be proactive. I replaced the lower ball joints and tie rod ends with OEM parts. It made a noticeable difference.

If the front seems loose, how are the alignment numbers?

 

My point being, I personally know someone with an 01 tundra and 5100s on the 2.5 or 3 inch setting and his truck is fine. He doesn't have aftermarket UCAs or coils, etc.
I don't see the issue going to the higher settings, especially if you buy new UCAs and maybe a diff drop. But my experience with 5100s on my.own vehicles has been limited to first gen tacos. Both of which I had set to the highest lift. But those 5100s only had 3 settings iirc.
I can't seem to wrap my head around why Bilstein makes socks for our.tundras with all these settings (both 5100 and 6112) and then says not to use half or more of em lol

 

What gets me, if I recall correctly, on my 6112's Bilstein recommends that the 4wd Access Cab be limited to 1 inch but the 4wd Double Cab & Sequoia can go to 2 or 2.5 inches. It makes no sense.

 

Exactly.