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Leaking and Noisy Power Steering Pump

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by bajaphile, Aug 15, 2019.

  1. Aug 15, 2019 at 5:39 AM
    #1
    bajaphile

    bajaphile [OP] New Member

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    Icon Coilovers, Icon AALs, JBA headers, 285/75r16 BFG KO2s
    Hey guys,

    Tried searching but didn't find much. How common is it for the 1st get PS pumps to fail or leak?

    Replacement seems straight forward, but on mine, it appears (I haven't taken it off the truck) it is leaking at the front main seal. Wondering if I should just try to replace that vs spending $200+ on an OEM (Not sure if there is any aftermarket that is worthy). See below.

    Thing is, I bought the truck ~2 months ago and first thing I noticed after I drove it home was the PS pump was groaning. Fluid looks brand new (OE style hydraulic fluid) and the pump itself even looks new or rebuilt. Unfortunately do not know history on why/if it was replaced. The leak is more of a weep, but enough to collect on the skid plate and be pretty wet.

    Lastly,in lieu of buying an OEM, is there a proffered brand here that has worked?


    upload_2019-8-15_5-36-42.jpg

    EDIT 9/1/19:
    Ended up buying a OEM unit from Toyota Parts Deal. Many Toyota dealerships online marked the pump as NA or Discontinued. Luckily got one, however cost $250.

    It is worth noting that the loose steering feeling on the highway and also in neighborhood driving was completely fixed with the new pump. I would have never thought a new pump would have fixed that. Obviously the noise and leaks are gone as well. Overall I am VERY happy with the quality Toyota unit and has made driving the Tundra a lot better.

    Installation was very straightforward and no real special tools were required. 3 mounting locations accessed from the front of the PS pump (through the pulley holes) using 14mm socket. Only needed to remove air intake for proper access. Obviously need to loosen serpentine belt from PS pulley and just move out of the way.

    After putting in new pump, a trick here is to attach the low pressure (suction line) to the pump, and leave the pressure line disconnected. Fill up reservoir and the AT fluid will go down and flood the pump, and start coming out the pressure line side. This removes the air in the pump, and helps A LOT with bleeding (the next step). It is a little messier but a time saver in the end. Once all the little bubbles stop, which should only take about 1 minute, you can go ahead and put the pressure line back on.

    Bleeding is very simple as well. Jack up front so the wheels are off the ground. DO NOT START the engine. Simply put the key in the ignition to ON and turn the wheels lock to lock. You'll only want to go lock to lock once, then go to the front and fill up the reservoir. You don't want the reservoir to go dry otherwise you'll bring air into the system. Do this about 20 times. It is then nice to have someone watch the reservoir to ensure there aren't any bubbles. Once you get to that point you can assemble everything back and start the vehicle.

    FYI - Used Valvoline Max Life ATF (If you do some google searches, it is equivalent in use as the Toyota WS fluid). I've used this fluid in my wife's 2005 4Runner AT, and my 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser transmission and PS system.
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2019
    MD0811 likes this.
  2. Aug 15, 2019 at 6:08 AM
    #2
    Scuba

    Scuba Sober member

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    Easy with normal hand tools.
    The entire pump needs to be disassembled.
    You can get a rebuild kit with all the seals from rock auto. I prefer Toyota OE.
     
  3. Aug 15, 2019 at 6:57 AM
    #3
    bajaphile

    bajaphile [OP] New Member

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    Yes, I agree... but as I was saying I am not 100% sure of the history with the pump (has it been rebuilt right before I bought it and failing again...). Basically I'm wondering if these pumps are known to fail, or have a known weak point.

    For future reference, the Toyota seal kit is PN 04446-06030. (~$50)

    I guess I'm answering my own question, but my garage/house is being remodeled for the next 6 months and only can work weekends while the construction isn't going on. Will probably just buy a new pump and do a quick swap rather than trying to deal with rebuilding one. :/
     
  4. Aug 16, 2019 at 4:33 AM
    #4
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Yup, that's car parts in a dishwasher

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    I haven't heard of one going bad in my short time on here. I have heard of Jose clamps bsing loose though. And when you say hydraulic fluid, you mean ATF? What color is it?
     
  5. Aug 16, 2019 at 5:28 AM
    #5
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    Same here. What I've seen is that the alternators, starters, and power steering pumps seems to last a very long time. I think multiple people have chimed with with 300k+ saying they have the original parts. It's quite amazing honestly.

    @bajaphile I would only got OEM if you have to replace it. I wonder if someone replaced yours with a cheap aftermarket unit?
     
  6. Aug 16, 2019 at 6:49 AM
    #6
    bajaphile

    bajaphile [OP] New Member

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    Icon Coilovers, Icon AALs, JBA headers, 285/75r16 BFG KO2s
    So the previous owner, who was the original owner was an older guy who garaged the truck, never took it offroad and had all service done at Toyota. I have all receipts from Toyota, which are limited, but there. However, cannot find anything regarding power steering pump.

    When I bought it, I actually noticed how new the pump looked. I checked the fluid, which is not ATF, but clear, barely visible because so clean HYDRAULIC fluid.Not sure if a different mechanic would have put this in besides Toyota. Regardless, someone may have replaced it but used a cheap aftermarket part. I am going to try and get some pictures of the pump here soon.

    Anyone know of a "Toyota" or "Aisin" (assuming they may have been OE manufacturer?), or marking off their OEM pump I can compare to?

    I checked all the hose connections with my hands, and it really does appear to be leaking from the middle of the pump. I need to double check though and pull off the skid plate to get a real clear view.
     
  7. Aug 16, 2019 at 7:04 AM
    #7
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Brake Czar

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    The first thing I would do is flush out all that crap and put in some quality ATF. I really wonder if that's what may have damaged your pump. I had to buy a turkey baster looking tool in order to suck out the old fluid and put new in.
     
  8. Aug 16, 2019 at 8:00 AM
    #8
    Scuba

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    Yep regular power steering fluid could have damaged the seals. The detergents in ATF help keep the seals in good shape.

    Aisin is the OE manufacturer.
     
  9. Aug 16, 2019 at 11:09 AM
    #9
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Yup, that's car parts in a dishwasher

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    This. And you may try some PS stop leak in there too.
     
  10. Aug 24, 2019 at 1:49 PM
    #10
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hand Protectors
    I use the DEXIII (Dex/Merc by Valvoline) which is cheap and readily available at Wallywurlll. Its a red cranberry color. Try a few multiple suck and fills to eliminate the existing fluid and get the stuff that should be in there that works.

    DEXIII is spec’d for 2000-2002 trucks.
     
  11. Aug 24, 2019 at 1:57 PM
    #11
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Hand Protectors
    Still on the original Steering Pump at 165k miles. Last year I did a suck and fill with the engine running and blew out some boogers in the process while the pump started screaming at me. I had a bottle of DEXIII handy and was able to fill the res quicker than running to turn off the engine.

    Wonder if I got lucky and at the same time blew out some harmful cack? Sucked out of the res about triple the amount pictured. The slight leak at my bellows has disappeared.

    upload_2019-8-24_16-54-13.jpg
     

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