Toytec Shackles

Hey guys, having a weird issue here. Got through the front end install this evening but when I went to the shackles I couldn’t get the bottom part to fit over the leafs. The shackles seem like they are just a little too narrow to fit around the leaf...am I going crazy? Any advice here? Thanks!

 

Had no issues with my install. I did replace the factory bushings with Poly's from Toytec. The fit was snug but didn't have to force on to the leaf.

 

ok so i need to replace the bearing in the leafs then...i was a little unsure because this guy: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=eNTGU1DYmIs looks like he uses the bushing for the bolt through the frame. That and my truck only has 4000 miles so i figured I could replace them later, now i’m thinking I’ll need to replace them now or grind the stockers...Does that sound right? I’ll take a pic in one min

 

not a great shot but I hope you can see the bushing is making contact on both sides (I know leaf is a little high but it makes contact even when it’s lined up

 

If i were you, I'd replace the factory bushing and replace with poly's. The factory bushing is press fitted and attributes to bed bounce and are a bitch to get out but worth the effort.

 

If you can't get poly bushings now, then grind down the factory bushings and go with until you get your hands on some poly's.

 

Thank you! I decided to grind them down for now, I’ll get back under and swap for poly asap!

 

now just to find torque specs for the spc ucas, lol

 

Try contacting SPC by phone on Monday and get the actual torque specs.

 

I saw a post from @csuviper that had TC UCSa torqued to 173, not sure if spcs are any different though, so I’ll call monday

 

Thanks again for the help!!!

 

New poly’s and grease, ride improvement. Don’t wait too long!

 

One more question guys, I am trying to adjust the ride height and I cant seem to get the locking collar to budge, it seems stuck...I even tried tapping the spanner wrench with a hammer to get it to move/loosen but nothing. Anyone run into this/have ideas?

 

From what I’ve read around here it’s best to remove the CO’s, compress the spring then adjust. Also don’t loosen the setscrew too much otherwise you can ruin the threads (it could cross thread). At a minimum you need to have the truck up in the air. Some people have been able to sneak in a spring compressor with the coil over mounted to the truck still, and compress the spring just enough to adjust the collar.

Also make sure all the threads are super clean. Probably a good idea to lube them up as well.

 

turns out a river of pb blaster and a punch wedged in the collar did the trick!

 

anybody know if radflos have a max adjustment? (ie how many inches from locking collar to top of coil over, or max amount of threads showing?)

 

Wd-40 the threads

 

As @csuviper posted: the long thru bolt is 173 ft/lbs.
The nut on the top of the Ball joint is 150 ft/lbs. I put it all the way to the outside in the slot.

Mine moved just fine. The truck needs to be up on the jacks. Both wheels, if you kept your anti-sway bar. Because if the opposing wheel is on the ground the sway bar will prevent the raised wheel from dropping all of the way.
What spanner wrench did you get with the kit? Mine came without a handle and has a 1/2 inch female drove socket in it to attach a long breaker bar. If your spanner wrench is conventional and has a handle, try using a piece of pipe over the handle for more leverage.

 

thank you @MAK !

I did get it with a river of pb and more elbow grease...

now center of hub to fender I’m right around 25”



that look like too much thread to get that height? seems like a lot to me, but I haven’t seen anyone else’s