Tire Size with Bilstein 5100 lift

Hello,

I have a stock 2013 Rock Warrior and want to level it out with the Bilstein 5100 adjustable shocks. I am wanting to upgrade to 20" wheels from the stock 17". I found a smoking deal on a set of brand new BFG 285/65/20, Im hoping they will fit with minimal to no trimming with the lift. Does anyone know what offset of wheel I would need to get to avoid major trimming or is it what's needs to happen regardless? Just looking for some personal experience and tips when I go wheel shopping for the tires.

Thanks!

 

There's no short answer for this question. It really depends on the wheel offset and whether you level it before or after doing the tires. I'm assuming since you're going with 20s you have no intention of going off road or otherwise flexing out the suspension?

If you do tires first, be prepared to do a CMC and trim the skid plate, and maybe remove the sway bar, and for sure remove the plastic mud flaps. It seems most aftermarket wheels have +25mm offset at most, and some have 0mm or negative. If you go with a wheel that has less than +18mm, it probably wouldn't be wise to put the tires on before leveling, as your CMC would have to be pretty aggressive, and other cutting would also be required.

If you level it first and go with a wheel that has +18mm or more offset, it might be drive-able on road with no trimming, just removal of the mud flaps. At full turn you'll probably hit the skid plate, but that shouldn't stop you, and it can easily be trimmed or removed after tires are put on. If you level it and go with a wheel that has less than +18mm, you'll probably have to do the CMC after all, but it won't be as bad as it would be without the level.

As info, I put 35" BFG KO2s on my Rock Warrior wheels with no lift, and I didn't have to do the CMC. I had about 1/4" to the cab mount, and those tires were 12.5" wide. Your 285s will be 11.2" wide, so about 5/8" narrower each side of the wheel. The offset of the RWs is +50mm though, so even an aftermarket wheel with +25mm will stick out about 1" further than your current tires, and you'd be into the body mount for sure.

Hope this helps.

 

I have the rw wheels on my 08 crewmax and want to put 35's on after my bilstein 3:1 lift and plan to add spidertrax 1.25 spacers at that time. You think I will run into any rubbing issues with that setup?

 

Yeah, I do. It's not so much the height of the tire that gets you, it's the spacer. You'll have to do the CMC, and also have to modify the plastic piece that attaches to the bumper. I'm assuming you're talking about 5100s, not 6112s. You might be ok if you use the top setting on the 5100s and never compress the coils, so hopefully you weigh about 90 pounds lol. I don't think the top setting on the 6112s is quite as much lift.

 

Thanks for the info, as to your questions, I am going to go with 20s and will be putting them on AFTER the lift. I figured I would need to remove the front and back plastic mud flaps. Sorry if I dont understand all the acronyms, what is CMC?
Im not sure what offset wheel i will end up getting, but definitely lean towards something that will require minimal trimming. Also, I dont do a lot of offroading or hardly any at all unless its just traveling to campsites that are slightly off the beaten path.

 

CMC, or BMC, as some call it, is the cab mount chop. The cab mount lies in the rear portion of the wheel well. It is a boxy triangular shaped piece of steel that is welded to the side of the frame. Big tires hit it when they're turned about halfway to full lock. The driver side hits when turning left, the passenger when turning right. The chop is a common enough requirement when putting bigger tires on tundras that some fab shops sell pre-made plates to weld on where the cut is made.

 

Yes I’m talking about 5100’s. I have 285/70r17’s on there now and don’t come close to the body mount, the 315’s are only a hair over 1” wider. I’d really like not to cut up shit on the truck especially as it pertains to metal mounts but I most definitely am not 90 lbs lmao

 

You're seeing what I saw when my truck had 285/70/17s. I knew mathematically that 315/70s or 35/12.50s would fit on a stock truck without rubbing, at least for street driving. The difference between what you and I are saying is the spacer. It isn't necessary to clear the UCA with the tires you want. It'll give you more tire poke for sure. It'll also necessitate a CMC, even on 5100s. Are you installing flares too? My 12.50s on RW wheels fling plenty of mud and rocks up on the sides of the truck. If they stuck out another 1.25" they'd really do some damage to the paint. Have you considered Bora spacers? They make a .75" hub centric spacer for the tundra. You could probably avoid, or at least minimize, the CMC by saving that 1/2".

 

After doing some measuring, it looks like the 285/65/20 will fit, just have to make sure of the offset on the wheel. But on a side note, would people recommend the Bilstein 5100 adjustable shocks or perhaps something different? Should I consider upgrading the spring? I was looking at toytec and saw the eibach pro sport truck shocks or do I spring for the eibach coilover?

 

Are you suggesting that with no spacer at all I would be fine? I could care less about poke and I’m not a real big off road we do flares aren’t in my plans as of now. I only considered the spacers because I figured I would run into uca issues with 35’s.

 

Just for reference I’m running 315/70r17 tires on the Rock Warrior wheels with 1” bora spacers. So that puts my offset near +25. No bmc needed and don’t hit the skid plate luckily. Only had to push the inner liner forward about half an inch.

 

You the real mvp lol And you’re on a 3” lift in the front? And how do you move the liner forward all the liners I’ve ever dealt with snap in place there’s no adjustment.

 

here's a pic of my tire and UCA with 35x12.50x17s on Rock Warrior wheels with no spacer. That's about 1/2" clearance.

 

I'm pretty sure I've seen this pic somewhere else on this site, but damn, that's a nice wheel/tire combo. Crisp and clean.

 

Correct just a 3” spacer in the front and 1” block in the rear till I can upgrade to better suspension. Moving the inner liner forward is very easy, there’s just two screws that hold it on there. Take those screws out and push the liner towards the front bumper, redrill two new holes in the liner that will match up with your screw holes, then reinsert the screws. Takes maybe 10 minutes to do both sides.

 

I sure do appreciate it. I was hesitant on the white letters out on the tires, but I’ve gotten many compliments on it.

 

I agree, and I really dig the raised white letters. Anyone know the stock stud length to know if I would have to grind them to run the 1” bora spacers?

 

Are you planning on running aftermarket wheels or stock?

 

You should not have to! The back side of the RW wheel is hollow, so the studs will not conflict with it if they stick out past your spacer.

 

Definitely want to keep the rock warriors, I love the look.

 

What black sheep said, the stock wheels have a recessed lip on the backside of the wheel where the studs will sit. So no need to trim the studs.

 

Ok great thanks guys, so where did you pick up the 1” spacers? Everywhere I look starts at 1.25”

 

Believe I ordered them from bora through Amazon if I’m not mistaken. I think bora is the only company who makes a 1”.

 

A few months ago, I had .75" ones in my cart from Wheeler's Offroad, but discovered I didn't need them. Now, I can't find them anymore. Maybe 1" is the thinnest hub-centric spacer Bora makes now.

 

I didn’t necessarily need the 1” spacers, I just wanted to push my tire further out of my wheel wells to get them flush with my fender flares. If I didn’t have the flares I probably would’ve done without the spacers.

 

And with no rubbing, I'll just order the wildpeaks and put them on and not spend spacer money if spacer money isn't required. Big savings as i didnt realize they were so expensive.

 

Yes and I wouldn’t go cheap on spacers either. Bora and Spidertraxx are the only two brands I would run.

 

MS, did you have to put longer shocks on the rear with the blocks added?

 

No I didn’t. The ride is stiffer in the back due to the blocks not allowing the shock to travel as far, so I will definitely get longer shocks whenever I upgrade. But many run blocks with the stock rear suspension with no issues.

 

I have my 5100's on the front set to the top setting, so I want to add an inch in the back just to get a little front rake. I have about half inch more height in the front than the back.