Wiring/fuse help

Recently purchased the attached aftermarket grill and would like to be prepared for when it arrives. Can someone please advise in the easiest terms to comprehend, how to sync the 3 Amber lights with the daytime running amber lights on my 2016 CM? TIA.

 

There’s a few write ups on this. They usually involve an add-a fuse, which turns an existing fuse, say your driving lights, into 2 fuses so you can power an additional item with them (your grill). You can either tap into a fuse in your engine block or footwell fuse box inside cab. It’s likely much easier to tap into the fuse block inside the engine compartment so you don’t have to go thru firewall. There’s 3 different size add-a-fuses, micro, mini and regular, make sure you know which size...here’s a write up that walks you thru doing this...https://www.tundras.com/threads/mikes-diy-raptor-style-led-mod-thread.3764/

 

Awesome, thanks so much man. I really appreciate you taking the time to reply.

 

Installed this grill on my 17 TSS, like it a lot. Everything lined up perfectly and fit/finish/composition was much better than expected, especially for the price.

I didn't want to run a lead into the fuse box, so I wired mine using

$11 Low Voltage Wire Connectors Solid Connection, T Tap Wire Connectors, T Type 2 Pins Wire Splice Connectors, Solderless No Stripping 3 Way Wire Connector for LED Strip, Automotive Fits 24-20 AWG 12 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07114RK67/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 from Amazon, its nice in that it allows to splice both both wires from the source to both wires of the lead in a single, weatherproof press-on connector. The LED's don't draw enough amps in comparison to the DRL's for the ECU to even notice.

I used the leads from the driver's side DRL right behind the bulb as it feeds into the connector. It's easy to get to and allows a quick connect (See Photos). If you use the two wires shown in my photo, then your grill lights will flash in time with the driver's side turn signal (this was before I corrected it). Use the White/Black and the Purple wires to achieve a solid-on anytime the DRLs are active.


***HINT : Because we tend to do wiring with the vehicle off (and I almost always set the park brake when I kill it), BE SURE TO RELEASE THE BRAKE prior to cranking the truck to test your wiring. If the brake is set when the key is turned, it deactivates the DRLs until the brake is released. This little tidbit had me thinking I was on a bad connection or wrong wire, leading me to recrimp and try different wire pairs several time unnecessarily. Turns out I was right the first time.

 

This is a real easy way to do it too, tapping into the two wires that power the tiny amber bulb on the very top corner of headlights. Not a lot of wire to work with, which makes tapping into a bit more difficult, but easy in itself...this method usually doesn’t involve fusing your new stuff, which isn’t a huge deal when you’re adding 3 led lights that pull very little amps

 

You should also look into color matching that grill...is yours a black truck? If so, I color matched my identical grille with duplicolor 202 black Toyota color match from auto store. After 3 coats I covered with a clear enamel recommended by ace hardware. It came out pretty darn good. I only wish I would have taken time to wet sand but it looks good enough.

 

Mine is MGM. I initially intended to color match it, but after test installing it, it looked really good in black up against the black bumper and lights. The camera makes it look a little more jarring, but to the eye its a nice contrast to the rest of the front end, especially after replacing the chrome bulge with the color-matched bulge in the photo

I didn't even elect to add any sort of emblem after the fact.. Thinking of adding some hideaway strobes behind the honeycomb, though.

 

Thanks guys, super helpful. Have already purchased the wire connectors so I’ll tackle it when the grill arrives. So, do I ONLY use the white/black and purple wires in the connector, and leave the red out, to achieve solid amber lights? Thanks.

 

I’m a little confused about the question, your grille led lights will come with a connector that has a red (+) and black (-) wire on the end , you need to connect the red wire to the positive wire going into the headlight bulb or add-a-fuse, the black wire either gets connected to the negative wire going to the headlight bulb or you can just ground to chassis if going the add-a-fuse route. Not sure which “red” wire you’re contemplating leaving out.

 

Sorry, I was referring to Hellbent’s comment in regards to the wires he used. I don’t use this forum as much as I should, so I’m not sure how to respond to a specific post. I am choosing to go the snap on wire connector route as opposed to the add a fuse route. He mentioned to use the black/white and purple wire to achieve solid light with the DRLs.

 

Ah, okay, I’ll let him respond. To respond to a specific post, such as I am doing here, hit the “quote” button at the bottom of the post you are responding to, then type your response

 

Much appreciated, thank you!

 

So, is the red wire left out of the connector? The black/white in one side and the purple next to it? Thank you!

 

Not sure how he fixed this. But the white/black is a ground wire to that bulb and the purple wire is a parking lot wire. Purple won’t have power unless you turn on your lights (at least on a 16’ with halogen drl’s) wiring is different if there are led drl’s from factory

 

If you are powering. Use either purple or the red. DO NOT connect purple with the white and black wire. Why/bk is connected to ground. Always use a multimeter to verify first.

 

I have this same grill and one of the lights is getting really dim. Was curious if any of you know or have replaced these lights? The closest I have found for replacement lights is the Ford Raptor replacment lights like this one -

$35 iJDMTOY (3 Smoked Lens White LED Grille Running Lamps Compatible with 10-14 & 17-20 Ford Raptor (Powered by 36 Pieces of SMD LED Lights)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...title_srh_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1LGDXCZMXB2CW There are a lot of reviews that say the wiring is backwards for them too, which causes more confusion towards purchasing.
Have any of you had luck with replacing the lights on these grills?

 

I am going to revive this old thread in hopes of clarifying what I want to do and to not start a new one. Hopefully some of you are still around here.

If I want the lights to be on with the DRL's then I need to use the purple wire as the + and the wt/blk as the - ?

This post confused me
"If you are powering. Use either purple or the red. DO NOT connect purple with the white and black wire. Why/bk is connected to ground. Always use a multimeter to verify first".

 

@RainMan_PNW or @iHacker

 

Did your truck come with halogen or LED lights? The DRL function and wiring changed in 2018+ trucks.

 

Now that I'm thinking about it, look up YotaLeds. I think that those tie into the DRL's. They have harness and switch kits too.

 

I have the halogen with the DRLs in a strip below them. The DRLs look like LED but I dont think they are.

 

Those are led.

 

So you want the grille lights on whenever the ignition is on?
So you have the white LED strip on the bottom of the headlight?

The problem with using the DRL to power the grille lights is they have a high and low.
High with the parking/headlight off, low with the parking/headlights on.
I guess you could tap into both but I don't know if that would cause conflict.

That is why there are 2 leads + the ground wire.
The diagrams are a little confusing.
Some headlights had halogen headlight bulbs and halogen DRL.
Some had halogen headlight bulbs and lower LED strips, which I think you have.
Some had LED headlights and upper and lower LED DRL strips.

*36 is the Halogen type with the separate halogen DRL/turn signal
The violet wire is low, connected to the tail lights (parking light) circuit pin 2
And the red wire being high, connected to the IGN pin 1
black/white ground pin 3

*37 is the LED type what I think you have.
Same colors, violet low pin 6 and red high pin 5 black/white ground pin 5







I hope this makes sense...

I connected my grille lights to the parking light circuit of the headlight.
They only come on with the parking/headlights, I didn't want them on during the day.
I retained my amber DRLs on my OEM LED headlights for day time, the dim strips come with the parking headlights.

 

So I am wondering now if I put a relay in there and used both the purple and red DRL wires to each trigger it if would work and not cause issues. Another idea would be to put a one-way diode in line so that it could not feed back to the other high/low.

I might just use a tap a fuse to put them on the tail light power as others have done, or a tap a fuse to a IGN on circuit.

 

And starts a new thread anyway...

 

I guess the ECU determines if the DRL is on hi or lo, depending on the taillight circuit being on.







I pretty much tapped into the 'taillight' circuit of the headlight parking lights.
I used posi-taps and put a small inline fuse as well as a Deutsch connector if I need to pull the grille.
I shrink-wrapped the posi-taps, although that area really doesn't get much weather/moisture.





I used my own LEDs on a TRD Pro grille





Good luck...

 

Please show me exactly where that hurt you. If you dont like a thread then dont read it. I thought I would get some more answers from people by asking about my specific question.

 

Doesn't hurt me in the least. I was just poking fun at you creating yet another thread. I know the internet and forums can be hard, even for a government IT employee.

 

I think this might be one solution. High and low DRL inputs into this diode and the out side to the grille lights. Whatever side is lit on the DRL's would feed the grille lights but they would not feed back into one another.