What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Looking back: One year ago today marks the anniversary of starting restoration of my truck. I erased all my phone pictures in celebration of todays event as a sign of closure. A new phase begins.

 

Thank you guys! These aren't 100% his work just to be clear. He took the 3rd gen Tundra SDHQ slider design and tweaked it to make it work for the 1st gen. But his skids and soon to be roof rack for my camper will all be designed by him completely. He fully designed my 4runner roof rack, which my tundra one will look similar

 

What's next?

 

Not sure, but things are pointing towards me spending time helping elderly folks. A calling, if you will.

 

So what happened to your t4r?

 

We still have it. It's my husband's daily driver. Plan is to sell our 99 Tacoma for a car. Then sell the 4runner. He wants a 2wd DC 1st gen Tundra to long travel

 

Me too! FYI, 10,200 feet and still tons of snow here in Utah

 

No snow here. Just Smokey Mountain jungle.

We took the dogs up to the mountains and hung out in the river. This road had 6 water crossings.

 

You sir are correct.

 

Smokeys are especially beautiful this time of year. The summer weather really makes the ‘smoke’ come out. Cool vids!

 

@FirstGenVol looks like a great way to spend a weekend! I'm jealous.

 

Having some steering wheel wobble after the new rims/tires. I am sure I could use an alignment but want to replace all the front end suspension (bushings, tie rods, ball joints, uca etc) I am starting to put a "cart" together but can't find any aftermark LCA that aren't LT. Anyone know of some?

 

My research says stay OEM for LCA’s.

 

There is not an off road style aftermarket stock length lower arm, if you mean like the ones FJ's, Tacos and newer Tundras have. First Gen trucks were never cool enough for that.

Best option is Toyota new old stock. Second best option is Moog Dorman or similar. Stay away from Mevotech on these. Beck Arnley contracts the build of theirs to vendors, various versions with different quality come from them.

 

Added SPC UCAs today and Suspension Max sway bar link

 

You guys are incredibly lucky to have such places to enjoy. I will just have to make do



But I did get a chance to hit the bike trail a few weeks back

 

The weather has finally been getting summer-like (~90 degrees), so I was finally able to use my kayak this weekend. Installed my "new" roof rack on the cap so I can haul it around. It's pulled off of an early 2000s Pathfinder from the junkyard.

Untitled by Blake Nichols, on Flickr

 

Replaced both upper ball joints with OEMs, to match my lowers I did a few months ago.

Old one...unknown brand, and man did they do some damage to it when they installed it.



Compared to a spare Moog I was given...was trying to see what brand it was. No luck. And more detail of the damage.



And the bag of the new ones...came with instructions, correct grease, and new castle nut with cotter pin. Well worth the $38 (each) from McGeorge Toyota.

 

What tool did you use for this? I had a hell of a time trying to get mine out. Did you pull the spindle?

 

Any feedback on those links? I've been waiting to hear from someone before ordering.

 

Thanks for reminding me...I meant to note the main tools. I used a pickle fork to separate the joint from the upper control arm. Then I used a ball joint press kit (free rental from Advance Auto with a $165 refundable deposit) to remove the old ones and press in the new ones. Pro Tip: Because that kit is so large, I ended up unbolting the brake line and speed sensor brackets, and unbolted and hung the caliper and I was able to pull the spindle far enough away from the wheel well to fit the press over the top just outside of the fender. I've seen where people say to remove the axle nut and tap the axle back to do this, but I didn't need to (just cover your fender to protect the paint...you'll be working pretty close (especially if you have the flares like my DC).

I also have the SuspensionMaxx extended end links. They work *great.* I was having awful popping and groaning after my lift went on with the standard length end links. These fixed it and they feel perfect. The only hard part is holding the bottom bolt while you tighten the top nut. Because there's a large metal plate on the arm, there is a very thin area to work to hold the bottom bolt. A socket wont work, so you need thin locking pliers or a thin open-end wrench. Standard wrenches are too thick. Thankfully you don't need a lot of force though...just enough to snug them down.

 

Ooh - the truck I really wanted. Looking good.

 

Colored the white lettering with silver Sharpie. Looks better.

 

Replaced the passenger CV axle with a CVJReman one. Had to remove the Superbump and disconnect the sway bar as the King shocks and larger boot didn't like each other. The underside of my truck is becoming quite colorful. Also fixed the passenger blinker housing as it was loose.

 

Very festive in there with the blue, red n green

 

Yep. I'm going going to change my horn to Jingle Bells.

I'm guessing I should change my diff fluid.

 

Just started listening to The Toyota Way today. If you can, I highly recommend at least the first two chapters (that's as far as I've listened so far) as it talks about the history of Toyota. Really interesting stuff.

 

I really need to do this. It's a cherry on top mod for sure.

 

Shree dolla a pop on ebays.

I tried the iron on method, but it didn’t work properly. Switched to double sided tape and hold very well. Looks factory.

 

Checked out the envogue steer column bushing and saw a slight tear around 160° of the inside fold. Decided ‘ain’t got time fo dis’’ and skillfully administered some acrylic latex caulk after a good brake cleaner dousing. The after pic is blurry, but you can see the white ring. The caulk turns clear after drying and is somewhat flexible, as well. I think it shall be a permanent fix for around .10 cents of caulking and 20 minutes of time. Its ‘keyed’ well into the crack, yet not on the spinning column shaft as per visual test.