What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I tried like 10+ codes.and I couldn't get mine to work. It worked fine on my 03 Taco's 4spd auto. It doesn't seem to like the 5spd auto.

 

@Professional Hand Model

The steering shaft seal is PN 45292-35090. It made a remarkable difference in cabin noise. The old one made it sound like I had an exhaust leak, even though I had checked with a homemade smoke machine and shopvac for leaks, which didn't exist.

 

This is interesting as I hear an exhaust leak but only occasionally. I just checked youtube and didn't find any videos on this. Can you give us a rundown of the replacement? The part is cheap so I may try this and see if I'm having the same issue.

 

I can do a writeup with pictures next weekend since I am doing the same thing on my dad's 2003 Tundra!

Go under your truck with a flashlight and look up the steering column where it passes through the firewall. I bet you'll find the boot/seal is torn or completely gone. This allows for a lot of engine noise to pass through.

Run down on how to replace:

1) Remove felt and plastic parts inside the cab that goes around the steering shaft as it goes into the firewall. First part is held in by velcro, 2nd part is held in by 3 10mm head bolts.

2) You'll see the bronze bushing right there. You'll just have to tap it down (out towards engine bay) with a small hammer.

3) Underneath the vehicle, you remove 2 12mm head bolts, which are removed in my picture I posted earlier. These apply clamping force to the steering coupler. One holds it to the steering shaft (upper) and the other holds it to the rack and pinion input gear.Remove them completely and spray down with PB blaster if yours is rusted.

4) You can then hit the coupler UP towards the cab to remove it from the R&P. Then slide it back down and completely off the steering shaft.

5) Now you can pull off the old bronze bushing with rubber boot I posted a pic of.

6) Clean steering shaft and apply a good amount of silicone grease (rubber safe). I put the bushing in the freezer for about 30 mins to shrink it up, and applied silicone grease to the outside and inside of it.

7) Slide up and you can essentially start it in the firewall recess with your fingers. Then I took a 2' long wooden dowel and tapped it into place with a hammer.

If you google Tundra Steering Shaft seal replacement there are a number of threads. The difference in cab noise is GREATLY improved. You think you might have a small exhaust leak, but in reality it is just the sound of the exhaust getting routed directly into your cab.

I'll post more pictures later.

 

Wondering where the schematic for the steering seal I posted up this morning went?

 

Going to attempt this mod tomorrow
I heard it works the same on the Sequoia so it should works on the Tundra.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_hG-ZVaFDjA

 

I had an entire thread disappear over the weekend. Even the mods couldn't figure it out.

 

It works.

 

Awesome

 

Just got my Z36 brake kit upgrade installed today. Havent had much chance to test it out but they brake very smoothly and there is no more shaking from my warped rotors and S13WL smaller calipers. Thanks for helping me find those brakes guys!

I think i saw earlier in this thread about someone posting how close their wheel came to the calipers with the upgrade, but barely still fitting just fine. Mine were the same way, they come very close!

I really enjoy checking out this thread and making my truck my own. Even though brakes are kind of a boring upgrade. Now im trying to justify a more exciting purchase of either a RIGd tire carrier swingout for the hitch, or going for a whole new rear bumper with swingout from Coastal Offroad that was linked a few posts ago. These were the diy weld bumpers and I have no experience welding or a welder. What ya think a local welding shop or fab shop would charge to weld this kit together? Thanks again guys!

 

Tonight I got my Torque Pro app set up including the code for ATF temp. I was only able to do this with the help of @lsaami
He put a ton of research into this in order to make that work.

 

I actually hear a little noise when I turn sometimes and I have a draft somewhere around the dash when it's really cold. This may be my issue. Thanks.

 

I sanded and buffed my headlights. It hasn't even been a year and they yellowed from the last sand and buff. I guess this is a yearly thing. Oh and I just ordered my total chaos extended axle shafts for the front. Total chaos doesn't do a board discount and they were the highest price around so I ordered them from another vendor. They will probably drop ship anyway so I don't really understand the board vendor status thing I guess. Anyway hopefully I get my uniballs and axle shafts this week!

 

Have you actually posted pics of your rig? Looks good. Love that color.

 

That's pretty much the first one. To be honest I've kinda hated it until about a week ago and I started buying all the stuff for my long travel build. Oh and removing the rusty steps helped make it look a ton better. Until lately it's just been comfortable transport. Hopefully soon it's more of a toy.

 

While you have them clear, you should spray some clear coat on them.

The reason they keep turning yellow is because the UV protective coating has burned off, and there’s nothing protecting the delicate plastic.

 

I was actually thinking about doing that when I paint my fenders and probably hood too.

 

Nice truck!

 

I might need to do the anytime fog mod. I didn't want to because I'm not keeping the stock bumper but for $12 its something I can do to keep hours low on my HIDs.

 

Is that something you would recommend on new headlights before install? I want new headlights but our trucks don't have many style options and they're all expensive.

 

What are those fenders?

 

I think the company is called duraflex. They were cheap and fit about as well as the price would imply. No matter they fit... Mostly.

 

Cheap fiberglass prerunner fenders you say?

 

I don't plan to keep mine either. But in the meantime...

 

Yeah just search for duraflex. There are some challenges, but hey it's tire coverage. I'm clearing 315 70 17 right now with very little rub and a pretty good wheel well chop job. As you can see in the picture I pulled my bumper sides to meet up with the fenders. It's an interesting look.

 

What is an ideal ATF temperature range for our trucks? I hovered around 150 today with mild outside temps. I tried a google search and the answers are all over the map with everyone having a completely different opinion.

 

I only see em for DC. Oh well.

 

Hmm I don't actually know on that. I don't even know what makes them different honestly.

 

Anything below a smoking engine temp is good.

I’ve never had my Transmission ‘overheat light’ pop on ever with as much towing as I’ve done. Even in stop and go summer island traffic which is the hardest test of engine/transmission.

Never knew there was a ‘overheat light’ until recently.

 

Not our trucks in particular but anything between 140-200 is safe. Under 140 you may see delayed shifts, over 200 the fluid starts to break down.