Need a fix for snapped exhaust stud

Hey guys, I need some help here. I was going through and ensuring all my header hardware was tight and ended up snapping off the stud on the AIR tube inlet (see pic below). I really do not want to remove the header again for obvious reasons. Basically i am at a point where i am going to try to drill it out and remove/replace the broken stud. Not so simple, unfortunately, but i plan on picking up and adjustable angle drill to try this and follow up with an extractor. If that does not work, my next thought would be to attempt to remove the tube between the header and the AIR switching valve (see next pic). That thought may not even be possible as the connection to the valve is well tucked in behind the motor and between the firewall. Any other suggestions?

 

Since no one has chimed in. If you're going to try and drill it out, make sure you use a center drill first so your drill but doesn't walk on you. Not necessarily that set. Use an appropriate bit for drilling steel so you don't break it in there. That will piss you off.

I've drilled out a crankshaft on a Camaro and GTO and tapped it because someone over tightened a crank bolt so I understand stuff happens.

 

Is there a CEL problem? Is the AIP tube leaking? I drove around for 40k miles or more with a missing header bolt and never had a leak. Space in that area is so precious, I imagine getting a drill and extractor (god those things are awful to fiddle with) would be very hard. If it ain't broke... you know.

 

cannot feel it, but it does not pass a bubble test. Really minor. I am not overly anxious about it, but it will attempt to fix it at some point. Just trying to stir some thought on the matter so i make sure i approach this from every angle possible.

 

The stud is pressed into the back mount sheet metal part, right? On my gen1 I had a similar problem because of Doug Thorley supplied hardware. And the AIP tube looks the same on my 2016, just a different location.

Maybe not as hard as I thought originally. If the stud is pressed on, you won't need an extractor.

 

Maybe @dirtydeeds can chime in.

 

No it is a pad stud with an unthreaded portion between ends. It has to come out the same way it went it

 

Lay a nut overtop of the sheered bolt, weld the nut to the broken stud from the inner hole. Let it cool, use a socket to back the broken stud out. We've done this many times,on different applications.This should work for you

 

Yes, this sounds like a good idea if you have enough of the stud left. One of those studs came out on me when I installed my headers. It was pretty easy getting a new one in. Hopefully it shouldn't take too much to get your broken one out.

 

Great idea. that may work if i can get the nozzle in there. just going to have to be careful not to weld to the stainless flange. Actually did this on my wifes Sequoia with the Diff drain bolts (previous owner stripped them)

 

Also prob gonna need a shot of whiskey to calm my nerves. Thats a small target in a tight space.

 

Good luck OP seems like it only happens on the hard-to-access studs/bolts.

 

Another option could be to get the AIP bypass module and leave the busted stud alone.

 

To add to 1BadTundra’s idea... depending on available space, sometimes it can be easier to weld a flat washer to the stud from the inner hole. Then weld a nut to the top of the washer. The washer should be sized so that there is enough flat surface to accept the nut and weld. Once welded proceed as 1BT recommends. Depending on the size of the stud that needs to be extracted you may need to use a taller nut on top of the washer so that the weld does not prohibit the socket from seating properly over the nut and allows the grip you need to extract the stud. Good luck!

 

Its a really small target, 6mm stud and its slightly recessed in the flange. So basically i will have to get a good weld, through a really small hole and not contact the flange (that would suck). Ill see if i can mock it all up and let you know.

 

Just as an update, i had the supercharger off for a rebuild and decided to try to sneak the AIP tube out from behind the engine. Ended up working great and i got the stud replaced. Now i am 100% leak free. I was only able to do this because the S/C was out of the way. I had to unbolt the AIP valves and lift them up to gain access to the second bolt holding the tube in. Otherwise the second bolt would have hit the head before fully unthreading. Welding may have worked, but too risky IMO

 

Nothing to add, specially since you got er done, but the long tubes look f’ing great. I got that lovin’ feelin’.

Good to see some quality stuff for these things out there(ARH).