Started buying audio upgrades

Stopping by local audio shop today . Bought infinity kappa 6x9 front door speakers , mounting brackets , wiring adapters . And picked up sound deadening pack for front doors.
Next week I'll buy kappa's for rear doors . And more sound deadening for rear.
I'm thinking about ********* plug and play amp and wiring .and doing subs myself .
But could get local shop to install skar audio amp and kicker 10" subs . Any input on amp and sub install would be greatly appreciated .

 

Nice!

 

Stopped again yesterday and bought 6.5" kappa's for rear doors. And 8 sheets of 12"x36" dynamat sound deadener .
I think I'm going with 10" kicker comp vt subs in a Qbomb box .

 

Well that sucked. IvI' got cuts all over my hands . My knuckles or skinned . But I got two layers of sound deadener on all doors .
I put a layer on inside of door skin and layer on door just under panels . And instead new infinity kappa speakers front and back.
Next week I'm having Q box with 10" kicker subs installed. And a skar 5 channel amp .

 

Looking good! Let me know how that sub and amp sound as I'm trying to figure out my sub and amp choice.

 

Do the speakers need special brackets at all to replace the OEM? I know my Tacoma did and was thinking about upgrading my Tundras as well. Cant wait to see what you think about your set up!

 

They did take adapters. I bought them at local audio shop. I think fronts were $20 for 6x9 and rears were $18 for 6.5"

 

Yep, speakers I bought from Crutchfied came with speaker and wire adapters.

 

I've looked at JL audio 10" shallow mount subs . And kicker compvt . I decided the kickers would do what I needed.
I mean im 49 years old . I don't think an extra $400 worth of subs is going to make much difference on my old ears that have stood beside a loud welding machine for last 30 years . I can't rear very good anymore . But would like extra I think the new kappa's provide.
I think the skar amp I'm looking at is 75 watts per door and 400 on subs .
Can't tell much difference on kappa's now with out amp to them yet.
The double insulation on doors has made a huge difference on road noise though.
I would like to do roof and floors next .
It took 3 1/2 sheets of 18"x36" sound mat per door . About an hour per door .
I cut mats into strips and made buckets behind speakers to direct all the sound towards truck cab and not inside doors . That was time consuming.

 

Good idea staying away from the ********* amps. I just don't trust those guys.

Are you swapping head unit? What are you planning to use for OEM feature integration? I have an idatalink maestro RR and kenwood head unit which is great. If you keep your head unit you won't need one but may want something to make amp easier to wire up, like a dsr1 if you have the JBL stuff.
I'm not sure what the non JBL people use, maybe just high level inputs or a line out converter?
Any chance you'll want a 9 conductor wire to run speaker wire from amp back up to head unit? Makes it much easier than running a ton of speaker wires, it also has a 9th wire to use for a remote amp turn on. I have one I'm trying to sell.

 

I bought a truck with entune upgrade hu.
Got navigation .
IvI' had trucks with Bose and didn't like having to but extra to bypass everything
I'll need a loc . To run speakers
.
But will be getting audio shop install amp and subs.