What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Depends on which year and HD vs regular but they were $600 total.

https://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Toyota_Tundra_2000_2006_s/1935.htm

 

Well it was a Chrysler product!

 

Installed my stubby antenna today.

 

As promised, here’s the exhaust clip for the Aero Turbine and my custom ugly side pipe.

https://youtu.be/olYPLC096-U

 

Tried out a cheap clay bar kit and wax on her today!...then it rained of course

 

Sounds like Texas lol

 

Well changed my oil for the first time since owning it. Went smooth till I tried to install a fumoto valve. Damn previous owner cross threaded the drain plug so the fumoto wouldn’t fit. Had to reinstall the plug and will try to rethread at the next oil change.

Also removed the skid plate to find only 4/5 bolts holding it on and all 4 were different sizes, lengths types of bolts. Left it off so I can install new bolts that match. Anyone know the skid plate bolt sizes?

 

threw some 35x12.5r17 super swamper TSLs on her and hit some mud
do i need to say anything more? It's badass

 

How bad do they rub?

 

Like rolling thunder
I trimmed the bumper back about 3 inches cause its bashed up and im planning on doing a tube one. And I trimmed the fender well back on the bottom rear a little. Im planning on grinding the pinch weld i just bashed over all the way down and just putting a bead along there for more clearance
Plus a uca and new bilstiens are coming for an extra inch of lift in the front. I may flip the rear shackles for more lift in the read or be lazy and do lift blocks. Definitly will post up wich path i go

 

Do you already have an add a leaf? I highly recommend the wheelers progressive AAL. I've had it on all 3 of my yotas

 

Nope, its stock rear hieghts and just a cheap 2 inch spacer in the front

 

Plus I'm an ofroader, wont the AAL stiffen up the rear?
I don't mind squaring with load for work at all so its not a problem.
Here she is with a 700 lb fireplace above/behind the rear axle.

 

I single AAL will.
I have stock leafs with the overload removed and a 3 leaf progressive AAL with Bilstein 5160s and I've taken mine to a rocky off-road park. Had a blast with no issues.
https://youtu.be/iCQH_FxgJLM
https://youtu.be/3w9M0nu3xkI

 

That is how a truck should look. Awesome!

 

Electric impact guns will not budge that nut. Spend some time on craigslist or similar, you will find a decent air compressor and gun. I picked up a bostich gun and a small pancake compressor for $100, that had enough oomph to get that nut moved.

 

I think the Milwaukee Fuel series would have done it. The Mid Torque model is rated at 450 ft lbs. He just didn't rent one with enough power and I didn't bother to check it at the time. I'm just helping him out and assumed he had done his research. He's more of a "wing it" guy and I'm not. I won't make that mistake again.

"Delivering 450 ft-lbs Fastening torque and 600 ft-lbs Nut-Busting torque, the M18 FUEL Mid-Torque Impact Wrench is more powerful while also being up to 4" shorter and up to 2 lbs lighter than many competitive impact wrenches."

 

Where is that waterfall? Looks like the smokies. GA or TN?

 

I was thinking the same thing...

 

Wow. You indicated in an earlier post, the cordless impact drivers have come a long way, and indeed they have. I have an air-impact gun and a compressor, so it's hard for me to justify the expense of cordless, but it's good to know they're a legit option these days.

Thanks!

 

Like he said that's the mid range too. They've got a 3/4" drive now that'll hit 1500 ft-lbs.

 

Over in Washington southwest area near mount st Helens area. Hidden way down some abandoned road

 

My Milwaukee would probably handle the axle nut but would be hitting forever before it broke loose. I would save time by doing a pipe on a breaker bar and be done.

 

Do you guys think plastidip would come off after being stepped on?

I'd like to dip the entire rear bumper but I'm afraid it will peel off the plastic. If I only do the chrome I'll have 2 different shades of black since the plastic is faded.

 

More than likely. Some Krylon Fusion would be a better choice I think.

 

Rear Diff test this week seems to confirm 2 things:

1) The 3oz. of CRC Posi-lube for LSD that I put in last week has eliminated the occasional low speed slight grumble from stop while making sharp turns. I’ve had both Mobil1 for LS (grumbly/no bueno) and switched to the much less expensive Lucas (dino) for LS (nice but time has shown it needs a little more fortification).

2) My LSD works fine on the loose gravel as both rear wheels foot prints burned out equally.

Moving on to the 4Hi test, I went into some grass and gunned the engine trying to get all fours to peel. The truck grabbed and torqued with no peel marks. The torque was amazing and she really squats into the power.

 

Never used the Fusion.

Rustoleum Industrial Enamel (matte) has worked well on all my truck trim. No primer. Just straight out of the can. Prep is necessary, though.

The Industrial has a high output larger can. Makes for fast precision work versus some of these other dinky weak spray cans. Cost is $7?

 

Any paint will work with proper prep, the Fusion just has some type of witchcraft in it that makes it more flexible on plastic and no prep besides cleaning.

 

Plastidip would do what it is meant to do, it would peel right off. I would just use it on the chrome and leave the plastic as is.

 

Just paint the chrome with Rust-Oleum black.

1. Remove bumper from truck and remove all plastic.
2. scuff the chrome pretty good with sand paper. Clean with something like alcohol and let sit about 10 mins after you are done.
3. Apply 2-3 coats of Rust-Oleum self-etching primer.
4. Apply 3-5 coats Rust-Oleum black.
5. (Optional) apply 1-3 coats of clear.
6. Once cured, reinstall.

I painted all the chrome parts on my two tacos. Remember to wait about 30 mins to an hour between coats to fully dry. And about 3 hours after final coat before reinstalling.