Importance of addressing AIP before it stops working...?

Hello everyone! I have been around the site researching Tundras and finally pulled the trigger on an 08 double cab SR5 4x4 5.7 with about 119k on the clock. My wife and I bought a new 4runner 2 years ago and love it so much it has turned me into a Toyota fanboy haha! The truck has been dealer maintained in Washington state and has been serviced at all the recommended intervals I have yet to pick it up but hopefully by the end of next week I will at least have it. I will be performing all the fluid changes once I get it- transmission, differentials, transfer case etc..

One question I have though that I need some help with. With all the research I have done to get myself up to speed, one problem area I want to address is the AIP system. I went through all the dealer records of the truck on the Toyota site, and can find no notes or indication that the truck received the recall work on the AIP system. So I am assuming it's all original. I have found 2 options- there is the kit that relocates the intake air lines to under the hood with the K&N filters. There is also the option to install the Hewitt bypass setup. So here's my question- is the general census that the AIP system will almost ALWAYS fail at some point with any of these trucks? Or does the problem occur with only a few- say 20% or less? I know it is impossible to predict what will happen with any given truck- but I don't want to spend the $$ to install the intake relocation kit if it's almost a foregone conclusion that the whole system will more than likely fail at some point anyway. At the same token- I do not love the idea of installing 3rd party hardware/software (ie hewitt bypass kit) as this adds another element that can fail and I don't like having the starter line inside the fuse box etc...

I know I can just drive it till I have problems and then address it with a bypass kit- however I live in NW Montana and invariably this would happen at the worst possible time in bad weather.. I would rather be proactive with it depending on the feedback I get from you all.. I sure appreciate the help- Can't wait to get this truck

 

Welcome to the bunch! From everything I've read on the AIP fiasco, it seems moisture is the main culprit. I have the Hewitt Kit on my computer's Favorites Bar, so when the time comes, I'll be ready. "Garage Queen" as my 2010 is, it seldom gets wet and when I wash it, I never load-up the front wheel wells with water.

 

Welcome from Colorado. I'm not worried at all about the AIP's on my 07. Doesn't happen to most of us. But it does seem to happen in high moisture climes or AIPs that get doused with mud and water a lot.

 

There is a 3rd option as well. It is the home made version of the Hewett kit. I'm pretty sure the Huwett kit was modeled off this version.

 

My 2010 back in the day had the AIP go driving down a wet road after a rain storm... nothing crazy at all. It only had 25k on the clock at the time, so it could be a bit of a wild card. Might not be a bad idea to be preventative.

 

Added link to the bypass mod.

 

Thanks for all the replies everyone!! Still trying to decide what to do- for now I think I will drive it through the summer and this late fall I may decide to spend the $$ and address it.. I talked to a few friends that have Tundras and knock on wood they don't have problems in over 200k miles..

 

Anyone know if they have made a bypass for a flex fuel motor yet?

 

I have a new to me 2007 with 139k and from everything I can tell, never had any recall work done on it. This same exact thing is what I’ve wondered about as well. I get car washes with undercarriage wash, etc...it’s amazing that something as simple as that can cause it to go. For me, I’d rather eliminate a weak link...and want to do the bypass. I’m going to start researching it.

 

From everything that I've read, water intrusion is the biggest problem for the AIP system. The early 2nd gens had intake tubes that were open at the top which allowed alot of water to run down the tubes to the pumps and ultimately to the valves. The new intake tubes are hooded to prevent water from entering the tubes. The tubes are behind the passenger side fender liner towards the front of the wheel well.
Trying to be proactive I ordered one and then found that my truck already has the hooded version. So, I'm sitting on a brand new set of tubes that you are welcome to if you need them.

 

Is there a diy intake relocate? It seems the 90* fitting can't be too hard.

 

Yes- sdhq off road makes a relocation kit.. a little pricey but worth considering for sure.. I still am not sure what to do..

 

And now I realize you said a DIY kit.. Haha sorry it's late and I didn't read close enough.. I agree it should not be too hard.. will wait for some more experienced members to chime in..

 

I’m in central MT, and I’m not overly concerned about it. I have an 08. I need to check and see if I have the updated tubes and if not, consider a DIY kit. I thought I saved some info a while back on how to do DIY, I’ll have to try and dig it up and I’ll be watching for a good solution

 

Im in your boat, I have had 2 replaced and I know there is a way to delete it. 1st one was covered by recall and 2nd by factory warranty so, I am now worried about a 3rd time.

 

https://sdhqoffroad.com/products/07...uilt-secondary-air-intake-pump-relocation-kit

I had originally thought they were machining a piece that threaded into the pump, but it looks like a nipple to an 'AN 90degree elbow' for their nice looking hose to go on. I haven't looked into how tight the area is, but I think once you figure out what size hose is coming off the pump, one could use a short 2" section of say 1/2" heater hose, into a 90 fitting like this *note I don't know what size hose and fittings it will be, this is just going off pictures*

$11 1/2" Hose ID/Hose Barb 90 Degree L Right Angle Elbow Barbed Brass Fitting Fuel/Air/Water/Boat/Gas/Oil WOG

https://www.amazon.com/Degree-Right...0131BPVAS?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q

Then run 2-3 feet of then 1/2 heater line up to a filter

$15 K&N Vent Air Filter / Breather: Washable and Resuable: 0.375 in/0.5 in (10 mm/13 mm) Flange ID; 1.75 in (44 mm) Height; 2 in (51 mm) Base; 1.5 in (38 mm) Top, Red , 62-1600RD

https://www.amazon.com/62-1600RD-Ve...1/2"+breather&qid=1560684895&s=gateway&sr=8-5

So....$15 worth of filters, $20 worth of hose $20 for elbows, hose clamps, and zip ties. Around $55 Heck, there isn't a filter on it now so you could probably skip that. Or run both hoses up to a T and use 1 filter.

I'll start poking around down there and keep you posted.

 

ND_Porkchop - did this work? I am thinking we are going bypass instead of replacing the whole secondary air inject pump. Not wanting to sink a crap ton of money into something that we don't need to. Not worried about emissions so don't need it. If this works then we will do it

 

Sub'd. 2007 with 135K miles with same concerns.

 

I would be ready to purchase a kit if need be. I had mine fail the first time on my 08 back in 2015, at roughly 90k miles. It failed again in October 2018 at probably 137k. I was under the mileage for extended warranty, but was out on the 10 years. I was not spending $3k for the dealer to fix it again, when it was likely to fail a 3rd time. It's a crap shoot as to whether or not it will fail. My truck doesn't go offroad at all, so it wasn't in any type of mud or deep water, just normal stuff on the road.

I went with the Hewitt Kit and have been very pleased. They are knowledgeable about their products as well. I think I paid about $350 for mine. The other thing to consider, these codes will throw the truck in limp mode, so it may put you having to drive a spare vehicle at the time. Again, no way to know when or if it will ever fail. My truck had run perfectly fine and given no warnings at all. I literally got in my truck one morning on my way to work and the dash was lit up and truck had zero power.

 

This is what has happened to our truck. My husband got in it one day last week and it was lit up like a Christmas tree. Next day nothing. Couple of days later lit up again. Bogged down = limp mode. It has been replaced April 2016, before we purchased it and Toyota paid for that repair. The extended warranty ran out back in Feb I just looked the part up and it is $349 with free shipping. My husband is fairly intelligent and mechanically inclined so I'm sure he can figure out how to install this. We don't have to have emissions so I'm not worried about that part. We don't take it off road mudding or in deep water for anything either. Just normal road running.

 

You won’t have any issues with installing it. They come with instructions as well, so he will be fine. I got lucky, they are made in Lexington, SC about 15 miles from my house haha, so I just went by and picked one up.

 

Haven't looked into it. I'm leaning Hewitt tech also. I was ready to buy a couple months ago but saw something about a new model coming out soon so I waited...

 

Bump

 

Sweet. Looking on their FB page it looks like the FF version is in the works and due out soon...

 

I just installed the SDHQ kit this weekend. Easy install. Been sitting in my garage for over a year! Instructions are easy to follow.

 

I've been surfing this forum for a while now - having bought a 2010 4.6l tundra about a year ago.

Right out of warranty, I started getting the limp mode and all the blinking lights. I think it might have been a few miles out of warranty...

First I just unplugged the battery and that seemed to work, at least the first few times. Then, when that no longer worked, I bought a cheap ECU error code reader and cleared the codes. That worked for about 30 seconds.

Then I bought and replaced the secondary air intake on the driver's side, and again... that worked for 5 minutes. Then I bought and replaced the part on the passenger side and I got ANOTHER code telling me about a bad pump that was under the wheel well. I had my mechanic replace that and I thought for sure that would have done it, but then one of the pumps I replaced failed... I'm guessing that by replacing the system piece meal there was still some moisture in the system that ended up ruining one of the pumps.

So far I'm out $1500 between my own repairs and the time at the garage. So I just bought the Hewitt bypass system and hopefully this does the trick. I've been in limp mode for most of the past year and it's a real pain. Not sure why Toyota built this system like this to essentially make the truck barely driveable for an issue that doesn't actually impact anything as far as I can tell. Emissions? Is that the whole reason this dumb thing exists?

 

I have seen posts that warn that the AIP bypass won’t work if you’ve had your ECM reflashed.

I looked on Hewitts FAQ section and they mention that the only known reflash that effects their plug and play Bypass module was a limited service campaign on 2012-2013 models. My 2007 had an ECM update back in 2014. Do you guys think the bypass will work on mine?

I’m looking at doing mine preventatively

 

I'm also considering this as well. Just bought an 08 5.7 and it's been not starting. Then this morning it starts and now cel, vs., traction control light and 4lo are all on. Wtf?

 

Reviving this thread from the dead, hoping to find a pulse ... Curious on what the updated tubes look like? I've got a '12 5.7 flex fuel. I checked the old maintenance record and see it got the reflash to the ecu few years back.

Uness I'm misunderstanding something, some info on the site suggests bypassing/relocating is still a good idea and so I'm looking at the SDHQ relocation kit. Before putting money towards that, wanting to check and see if I've got the updated tubes that was supposed to be the fix.

 

highly suggest you contact the dealership that did the flash and verify what was the flash about before you plunge money in parts you don't need...