New member-08 tundra no start condition

I have a 08 Tundra with a 4.7 that just had a frame replacement a couple of weeks ago that will not start. It is doing some weird things, crank the starter and release to the run position and the starter keeps cranking until the key is turned off. I did get it to start once and the 4 lo light was on and the vsc indicator was lit. Turned off the truck and restarted and it died. Then went back to the deal with the starter. If I unplug the ECU the starter works correctly. I am reading about shorted secondary air valve coils causing this problem? I was hopeful that it would be something simple like a crank sensor. I can hear the fuel pump running. Anyone with any ideas?
Thanks Duane

 

Try to jump it? Call the dealer that did the frame replacement and see if they’ll pay for a tow to get it to them to check out. Could be coincidence or could be something they didn’t hook back up.

 

I drove it through a thunder storm Saturday night( I live West of Syracuse NY) and was thinking something got wet. It sat for 2 days and did start once but was showing some strange lights on the dash. Was kind of wondering if I didn't send a bunch of water to the air valves? It ran fine all the way home?????

 

I have seen this symptom described a in a few different sites, motor cranks but no start and have't been able to find any common fix

 

Welcome from Colorado

 

Welcome from NY.
Good luck.

 

Welcome to the party!!

 

Thanks for the welcome guys. For a little back ground about myself- I went to College for service and operation of heavy equipment. Was a fork truck and mobil equipment mechanic for 12 years. Worked on NC and CNC machines for 12 years, and now am a building maintenance mechanic for a school. I also farm and do side construction jobs. I have a solid back ground for mechanical, electrical, and electronics but if you don't have scanners for new vehicles you are kinda screwed!! I am going to try to figure out where to disconnect the air valves to see if this is why it won't start. The truck never went into limp mode, but as I stated before I ran across another post that said a shorted air valve coil will pull down the 5volt signal causing ECU comm. issues and not starting. I was stoked about getting my frame replaced and now this aggravation pops up. The joys of owning vehicles. I might be better off making a cart for my goats.

 

Welcome from NC! I would take it right back to whoever did the frame replacement and tell them to fix the problem they caused.

 

Welcome from Nevada

 

Thats a funny thing. I have a friend of mine with a lift that does some of the work on my truck that mentioned checking the ground. I know bad grounds can do some funky things. I am also going to call my local Toyota dealer that did the frame swap. The tech there has done around 140 and gets the job done in 20 hours(40 hour flat rate). Working at that kind of pace might definitely lead to things not getting tightened.

 

Great background! I agree with the previous posts. Quite possibly related to the recent frame fix. Welcome from Colorado.

 

I would guess a ground was knocked loose or off when you went through a puddle. Not sure if that would cause the engine to stall or just cause the no start condition.

 

So you have a crank no start, right?
And the starter stayed engaged after you released the key?

Does it ever not crank?

I could be a ground. It would most likely be the main ground that is on the block. It is right by the oil filter. But it sounds like a bad starter.

Anything else symptom wise you have noticed?

Edit: when the ecu is unplugged it cranks but still doesn't start? And when plugged in it doesn't crank at all?
Am I getting that right?

 

Welcome from Texas

 

Howdy from DFW and

 

Well, I think a found the problem today. I called the lock Toyota dealer that did the frame swap and of course I would have to get it towed and the were booked through next week!!!! The tech said to check the fuel pump ECU connections( located on the frame rail behind the tank driver side). It looked like death warmed over, bottom plug was not latching and it was rusted to hell. The tech indicated this would be the first thing he changed. I don't like to swap parts, too dam expensive. Then I found a site called IDENTIFIX.com, title of the post was Toyota fuel pump control ECU function. Whoever posted this is GREAT, had a simplified schematic of the fuel electrical system and the directions to jump out the ECU. You have a plug with 4 wires which consists of your hot, ground and control wires, and a 2 wire plug which goes to your fuel pump. All you have to do is jump the hot on the 4 wire plug to the blue on the 2 and hook the ground to the red. I did that and the truck started right up. I think it was rust welded to the frame and when he pulled it off it cracked and moisture got in driving through the monsoon. He also had a way to test to make sure the control was working but by the look of my component I don't think this is a issue. He said the hot was always hot but I found it to be switched with the key. As for the issue with it cranking in run, the Toyota tech sad these trucks have auto crank- apparently they crank until they start- I guess we learn something new every day- but we still die stupid!!!!!!! Now I just have to find where to buy a new ECU. So if anyone has a crank with no start this is a easy thing to check.
Thanks , Duane
PS, sorry for no pics, I still use an old Casio Ravine flip

 

Dam, been doing some looking and this looks like a dealer only part. Does anyone know of any aftermarket parts? If I have to buy it at the dealership I better do some stretches to get ready to grab my ankles!! The pain she will be a coming.

 

Finally got the part yesterday. Was supposed to be in on Friday and the local dealer was going to call. The part came in - no call. Took me less than 5 minutes to change and my truck fired right up. They soaked me $330 at the dealership( I did manage to knock down the price $15) but I would rather buy a new part when dealing with electronics. I guess in the long run it was still pretty cheap, if I had it towed and a diagnostic done and then the cost of the part plus labor I would probably looking at a $800 bill or more.