Shaking when braking

I have a 2000 tundra 4wd I thought my brake rotors were warped because when I hit my brakes it shakes tremendously but I put R1 concepts drilled and slotted rotors new calipers and pads and it still shakes like crazy when I brake in the front and does anyone have any idea what this may be

 

Prob your rear drums. Try applying your emergency brake while driving and see if it shakes. If it does it's your drums.

 

I am driving it now, and I tried the E brake but it did not shake. I have put new Axle bearings and a new set of shoes on the back drums. The shaking is coming from the front end

 

Tires ok ? I know my truck was out of alignment and it chopped my fronts a little bad enough I ended up putting them on the back. And I could only feel it bad when braking

 

Jack up the front end one side at a time. Grab the tire at 9 and 3 and see if you can move it. Then do the same at 12 and 6. If you can get movement it's either a bearing or a tie rod

 

Tires are good, I was thinking hub bearings or ball joints but wanted to see if any more ideas

 

Do this.

 

Is the problem different in 4wd than it is in 2WD?

 

I don't think your E-brake will cause the front to shake. If your drums are out of round, applying the brakes normally can cause pulsing in your hydraulic lines which can cause the front to shake. As I recall, this was a common issue with the early Tundras.

 

I have this exact problem with my 2000 4Runner, DRIVING (get it) me nuts. I have replaced the rotors twice, pads, calipers, rear drums, and rear pads. It’s been at 2 different mechanics, and I have asked countless people for advice.
I have not studied the wheel bearings real hard, please explain how that has effects only while braking. Not a sarcastic question, I’m a body man not a mechanic.

 

Check for bearings and tie rods. My wife's car did the same, but there was also some intermittent vibration at certain speeds. Turned out to be a bad tire. It took a while to diagnose.
And yes @OR18TRD I looked at this thread because the of the title and thought it was about @Notachickmagnet.

 

I'm gonna guess tie rods or steering bushings.

 

@Omohundro I have no idea, my brother is a mechanic but specializes in Ford Raptors not toyotas so I thought that I would visit a forum and that was brought up again so it will be my next step.
@JMB any answer for this?

 

Not to hijack but I have side to side movement when grabbing at 9 and 3. Would I just replace the tie rod ends or the entire thing?

 

So I have found after much trial and error it is the rear drums. Out of the 4 drums I have 2 that are warped, one of the old ones and one new ones. Different sides so I don’t believe it’s unrelated to the vehicle. I’m going to just buy 2 new OEM rear drums and pads and call it a day.
I’m more saddened by the fact that 2 different mechanics couldn’t figure it out. I am not a mechanic and was able to get it in a few hours of swapping parts around.

 

Just an FYI, applying the emergency brake did nothing. Smooth as can be, but my problem is certainly in the rear.

 

Glad you figured it out

 

Does your emergency brake work?

 

Works like a champ.

 

@Shalan66 give serious thought to at least having your rear drums turned.

 

Use a wire wheel on a power tool to THOROUGHLY clean the mounting surface of the hub of ALL rust and debris. Any rust between hub and rotor, and the rotor will not run true. It's only noticeable when you apply the brakes because the rotor surface is "wobbling" (because it's not torquing down flat), and the brake caliper is stationary.

 

This makes sense

 

The “emergency brake”, actually the parking brake, is activated by mechanical linkage. It is the pulsing in the hydraulic lines, induced by the out of round rotors, that cause the shaking in the front. As I recall, it took quite awhile for anyone to recognize the issue during the early years of Tundra forums.

 

If rotors have been replaced, and bearing and tie rod end wear have already been eliminated, it's the most likely cause. Maybe the originals really were warped.

 

It seems its been awhile since there were any reply's to this subject, I have had this problem for a long time. I've replaced front rotors pads and calipers 3 times and rear shoes and drums this last time. When I did this in the past it took care of the problem and then it would slowly return, I figured it was the front rotors slowly warping. This last time, when I replaced all brakes (last summer) it started put good and quickly went back to the same vibrating. I had to let it go thru the winter and I replaced the front rotors, pads and calipers ( second set of these) 2 days ago and it has already gone back to the vibrating. I cannot say that the vibrating is in the front or rear it shakes the whole truck. the other weird part is that it starts out in the morning okay, but as I drive it through the day it tends to get worse. I've tried the 9-3 12-6 tire movement and it feels solid, I've tried the braking with my parking brake and it does not shake with that.
I think its the fact that if it sits over night or for a long period of time it does okay but the longer I drive it, either with or without braking ( like on a long expressway trip) it will get worse. I'm out of ideas.

 

It didn't either with omohundro above, but his issue was the drums.

Curious, what are you buying for replacments? Cheapest you can find, or OEM?

 

Everything I have used since buying my truck in 2010 was suppose to be OEM, the ones I purchased prior to 2 days ago came from Rock Auto, the rotors were the drilled and grooved kind but according to Rock Auto were OEM. I removed them thinking they had warped and purchased the rotors, pads and calipers from Autozone which were also suppose to be OEM they definitely were not the cheapest .

 

When my brakes would shake it was a leak inside the mc. I could bleed the front calipers, and it would be fine for a day or so, then start dragging.

 

I checked into a master cylinder when I first got the truck about 9 years ago, due to a very soft pedal. It was almost $500.00, turned out to be that the only way to properly bleed these brakes was with the truck running, had something to do with the anti-lock brakes and the 1/4 mile of brake lines run all over the place. The first set of pads rotors and calipers fixed the shaking and proper bleeding fixed the soft pedal. The vibrating started again last year and I was hoping the drums, shoes, pads and rotors from Rock Auto was going to fix the issue which it didn't and the calipers, pads and rotors from Autozone didn't either.