1st Gen General Questions

I changed the boots on mine and it was a pain in the ass! Messy and time consuming. I recommend buying a cvjreman like @FirstGenVol mentioned or have a shop deal with it.

 

I was hoping to get your feedback. I'll take those boots off the list for now.

 

I just replaced the aftermarket CVs the PO had installed with new Toyota CVs. I also installed new Toyota lower ball joints and tie rod ends. I have the upper ball joints, but haven’t done those yet. Plenty of YouTube videos to show you how or if see you even want to tackle it yourself. Having the right tools helps.

The 2006 white paint should be single stage. If you get the black deposits on it like I do, Zymol works great at removing them.

The gas nozzles in California suck. This is my third 1st gen Tundra and Costco has just recently changed to nozzles that work without holding them in.

 

Most shops I talked to won’t do boots. I ordered Replacement boots for Toyota CVs, only to find the PO had installed aftermarket CVs & I had to use 2 outer boots just to fix one side. I ended up ordering Toyota CVs which meant that one side was done twice.

If yo do them yourself, watch some YouTube videos and mak sure you replace the differential case CV shaft seals. There is a left and a right.

 

So I'm thinking of ordering this https://www.cvjreman.com/product/9550-r/ and trying it myself. From reading the comments above changing the axle is easier than the boot. Should I do both sides or just the bad one. Btw, this isn't from the lift, it was torn before.

 

I would probably replace the pair, not just one. That's just me though. No harm in doing just one I suppose.

 

Should I spring for this https://www.cvjreman.com/product/9550-tr/ over this https://www.cvjreman.com/product/9550-r/? Probably just going to do one side at a time for now. Found a good video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEcQLCTA4jA

 

I'm running Kendall full synthetic as that is what the shop has and I've ran Valvoline FS a lot as well. Trying BG MOA as my mechanic highly recommended it. Opinions/thoughts? I'm thinking of switching to Amsoil, does anyone run it and does it live up to the hype? Maybe Amsoil mixed with MOA?

 

I’d just make sure you change the oil 3-5k miles which ever oil you use whether its full syn or dino. Keep it fresh using the proper viscosity.

Wally wurl has been selling 5 qt mugs of Mobil1 for about $22.

Mobil1 has a rebate of $12 per 5qt. jug (up to 4 jugs per household). Thats something like $2 a quart!

Something to consider.

 

I see you are still running the halogen bulbs. I swapped them out for 6k LED bulbs, brighter

 

I think the Mobil 1 High Mileage Full Synthetic is great. Have not had any issues with it, and it is what I run in all of my vehicles. Just my opinion, hope it helps!

I also second the changing religiously at proper intervals. Even though my full synthetic can go 5K miles, I still change at 3k. Worth it to me.

 

Mobile 1 was group 4 synthetic then they switched to a group 3 to be more competitive price wise with the other brands but I think they switched back to group 4, not sure. The only group 4 synthetic I'm aware of that is readily available is Amsoil and Royal Purple.
In America, group 3 is petroleum based oil using a different refining process that removes more sulfur. In the rest of the world, group 3 is considered regular oil. Our group 4 is synthetic every where

 

I was not aware of this. Knock on wood, it has always been a good oil for me as far as I know. All my vehicles have always had over 150,000 miles and the high mileage has been great.

 

Some good info. I still may switch to Amsoil, though. I wonder if their 10-15k oil change is accurate?

 

3k Oil changes are necessary due to the additives that give you the winter rating, 10W would be the winter rating. Right around 2800 miles they begin to separate. In group 3 oil that happens around the 5k mark, group 4 is man engineered with the winter rating from the ground up but still needs changing somewhere around 10k and some as high as 20k. Problem is some group 4 oil does have some petroleum oil in it.

 

I may be wrong but if I remember correctly, Castrol GTX was once upon a Time 1 of the better oils on the market (1970's to 80's). Then came the whole synthetic oil and categories. The GTX oil was rebranded Castrol Syntech, a group 3 petroleum based oil. Now we have synthetic oil from brand under the sun.
I will clarify though, it is good oil but I wish they would have been more truthful about what it is. Corporate lobbyist doing what they do best.

On another note. I remember being told many years ago not to use group 4 synthetic in Toyota motors, some crap about the lubricating properties can cause issues. Anybody here running Amsoil?

 

I used Castrol on all my original vehicles back when I was young and good looking. Changed oil/filter every 3k and gas filter every 6k. It was so cheap and easy to do both. 3.5 quarts of Castrol and filter was something like $4. Gas filter was $3 with two little spring clamps that took 30 seconds to change.

Back to the future: That Mobil1 ‘Extended Performance Synthetic’ seems like group 4 as the stuff was climbing out of everywhere in straight even lines (like a haze film). Switched to the ‘Full Synthetic’ and the haze weeps have slowed. Next change is to the ‘High Mileage’ of which I literally backed the truck up on the sale/rebates. Sitting on 6 (5qt) jugs. Getting ready to make another score on more whilst the sale is in effect.

Hoping on the ‘reconditioning of seals/gaskets’ advertising to work.

Here is what the ‘Extended Performance’ did the first 1k miles. It really cleaned out my engine and left some cottage cheese snot on the underside of my oil cap. Never saw it before or since the first 1k miles of driving.

 

All this wasted space... Anyone know if there is a way you could attach anything here? I think it would be cool to attach a holder for my binoculars.

 

Why stop at binoculars? A fab shop could easily make something similar to this molle rack that mounts to the grab handles.
https://mesocustoms.com/products/tacoma-molle-rack

 

Nationwide Products makes a peg lock system that's neat looking. You don't have to mount your AR-15. You could use it for other things.
https://acclamp.com/pages/peglock

 

That is freaking brilliant! Binoculars are just the start. I'd like to get my truck organized where I can keep it organized and that would help. Problem is that the driver's side doesn't have a grab handle.

That is cool. I wonder how they attached the board, though? And I'm not saying I wouldn't mount my AR-10 to it.

 

I have no idea but I'd like to know. If you find out please let us know. I'd like to mount some things on the ceiling as well but I don't want to accidentally drill through my roof.

 

Yeah, that's what I'm worried about. I do have two bolts in the roof where the PO had the light bar.

 

This thread has just become very interesting

 

Does anyone have or know where to buy nfab style side steps for a 2003 Toyota Tundra Access Cab? I can't seem to find any only for the double cab. Thanks

 

Looks like my next mod is to fab up a rack to my grab handle mounts! Thanks for the idea guys!

 

Same here.

 

I’ve had this idea in the back of my head for a while but it’s been put on the back burner with more pressing projects to finish first. I wonder how the ac and dc differ in grab handle locations or if it would be universal. Guess I gotta creepily look in an ac, or maybe @Brown Bear can help me out one afternoon.

 

Good question. While my father in law and I are fabbing up my flatbed I will have him look at that. He and I both have way too many Molle items

 

What's you're idea?