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Differential Drain and Fill plugs

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by omgboost, May 6, 2019.

  1. May 6, 2019 at 9:31 AM
    #1
    omgboost

    omgboost [OP] The Accountant

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    I have a 2nd gen Sequoia. I went out to try to drain and refill the fluids on the differentials and transfer case.

    The transfer case was easy-peasy and did not give me any issues.

    When I went to do the front diff, I was able to get the fill plug out but ended up stripping the drain plug using the 10mm. I was not able to get the rear fill plug out and think that it may be on the brink of being completely stripped as well. Has anyone replaced their diff plugs with these o2 sensor bolts? https://www.ebay.com/itm/M18x1-5-O2...c-Plating-Weld-Bung-Plug-PK-OF-2/123617366853
    Would the transfer case bolts work on the diff? I see ebay has magnetic drain bolt for the rear only but I'm considering changing to a 6 point socket bolt instead of the stock 10mm allen for when I pay someone to get the stripped bolt off.
     
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  2. May 6, 2019 at 10:17 AM
    #2
    landphil

    landphil Fish are food, not friends!

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    It sounds like it’s too late for the front diff drain plug, but there is a handy trick for removing flanged plugs like these. A sharp smack or two face-on the head of the plug with a small-ish hammer will make them much easier to loosen. It’s just enough to compress the seal ring a tiny bit more, and break the bond.

    I’m not much help on replacing plugs with a different style, but I like the idea if the thread size and pitch matches up.
     
  3. May 6, 2019 at 11:59 AM
    #3
    myt1

    myt1 New Member

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    I had the exact same problem that you had.

    In fact, I heard it is very common to have difficulty draining the front differential.

    I had no issues draining the rear differential and the transfer case.

    I ended up having to take my truck to the shop and have them use power tools to remove the front differential drain plug, after I stripped it.

    As long as you don't over tighten the new drain bolt, is there an issue just using the a new OEM bolt?

    I thought the issue was with over-tightening, not an issue with the bolt.
     
    omgboost[OP] likes this.
  4. May 6, 2019 at 12:26 PM
    #4
    omgboost

    omgboost [OP] The Accountant

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    I live where we get quite a bit of snow and road salt which causes the bolts to get rusty. The only problem I have with a new OEM bolt is fear of rusting and stripping it again in the future but I'm sure if I just follow the torque specs of like 29 ft lbs, it shouldn't happen again. I still have to buy new bolts so just wondering if it is worth "upgrading" the bolts. I do feel that the OEM ones is like a soft aluminum type and I could feel the allen part stripping when I tried to turn the bolt loose.
     
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  5. May 6, 2019 at 12:30 PM
    #5
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    I think the initial or first time they’ve been removed is probably the worst. The front differential is all aluminum. The plugs were installed when the units were completely dry so I’m sure there was zero lube on the threads. I think as long as you torque it properly and along with residual gear lube on the threads you should be fine.
     
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  6. May 10, 2019 at 5:34 PM
    #6
    omgboost

    omgboost [OP] The Accountant

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    So I was able to remove the rear fill plug by hammering the hex bolt into the fitting. The drain plug was a bit easier. It turns out that the drain plug is bigger than the fill plug so the link to the M18x1.5 in the original post will not fit the drain holes.

    For the front, I was able to suction out 1.5L of fluid through the fill plug (capacity is 2.12L so about 2/3 sucked out) and filled it up. For next time, I'll probably try vise grip or pipe wrench and see if I can get the stripped drain plug out.
     
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  7. May 10, 2019 at 6:55 PM
    #7
    landphil

    landphil Fish are food, not friends!

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    You can also cut a little bit of a notch into edge with a cold chisel, then change the angle so the hammer and chisel turn the plug counterclockwise.
     
    15whtrd and omgboost[QUOTED][OP] like this.
  8. May 10, 2019 at 7:48 PM
    #8
    Les7311

    Les7311 Look up, what do you see

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    The rear was easy-peasy!

    The front drain, I cussed like a
    “Drunk-$1- Pirate......” trying to break it loose...

    Shop guy about 300pound literally swing himself with a breaker bar for about 3 minutes before he broke it loose......

    Dammitttt whomever you are (then)....
     
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  9. Oct 23, 2019 at 1:09 PM
    #9
    Zebruaj

    Zebruaj New Member

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    Just fought the front diff drain plug this morning. It ain't budging and rounded off. Adapted the 3/8" 10 mm hex to the impact gun and wouldn't move. Breaker bar + jack handle ended up rounding out the drain bolt.

    Anyone know if the 24mm plug for the rear diff fits the front? Would rather use a socket than a hex key moving forward.
     
  10. Oct 23, 2019 at 6:50 PM
    #10
    cmb46

    cmb46 New Member

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    I was able to do the rear and the transfer case without any problems. I could not get the front fill bolt off so I quit.
     
  11. Oct 23, 2019 at 10:11 PM
    #11
    YardBird

    YardBird Native San Diegan

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    For cheap insurance maybe a splash of anti seize lubricant may be in order.
     
  12. Oct 25, 2019 at 6:07 AM
    #12
    Zebruaj

    Zebruaj New Member

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    Or don't let the dealer service ape get to your fill/drain bolts.
     
  13. Oct 28, 2019 at 9:54 AM
    #13
    mundra

    mundra New Member

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    Off topic a little bit, but I’m glad our plugs are metal and our pans are metal. Fords run plastic pan and plugs.
     
  14. Oct 28, 2019 at 10:23 AM
    #14
    Stumpjumper

    Stumpjumper New Member

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    yep, I believe the subject is differentials and transfer cases.
     

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