What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I did it with a little hand pump pressure bleeder from Harbor Freight with good results. No problems afterwards. I went through plenty of brake fluid however because it is cheap. I pumped through a lot of it in retrospect, but for me that is cheap insurance!

 

With that tool does it remove the need to have someone push on the brake pedal? Did one 32oz bottle do the job?

 

Yes to both!

I bought the yellow penzoil brake fluid if memory serves me correctly. If I understand right, the vacuum that is created from the little pump removes the need for someone to create pressure by doing the foot brake. I'm not a brakes expert, and I hate bleeding them, however this method worked well for me! Above is what I bought. It worked fine. I had to make sure I had really good seals and looking back I probably would have opted for a more quality kit, but it did the job and served it's purpose.

 

If somebody pumps the pedal you don't need to use a tool to pressurize the reservoir.

If you have time to use the gravity method you don't need a pedal pusher.
https://youtu.be/RQ93dHgu2ng

 

I use a Mityvac vacuum bleeder & Valvoline Synthetic fluid

$52 Mityvac MV8000 Automotive Tune-up and Brake Bleeder Kit, Selectline Hand Pump (MV8010), One Finger Vacuum Release, Ergonomic Design, Gearless Diaphragm Gauge, 4.5oz Fluid Reservoir, 4 Tapered Adapters

https://www.amazon.com/MV8000-Automotive-Tune-up-Brake-Bleeding/dp/B00265M9SS

$13 Valvoline 601457 Brake Fluid

https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-60...ake+fluid&qid=1557430565&s=automotive&sr=1-23

 

I think I'll have someone help me with the 2 person method. Just so I'm clear it sounds like the steps are:

open the value-->have someone push pedal slowly and steadily, close the valve(while they are still pushing?)-->repeat as needed while making sure you don't allow the reservoir to run empty.

I read to start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder.

 

Have the person pump the brake 3-4 times (really till it's firm. In the beginning this may take a couple extra pumps). The pumps should be steady and medium speed. Not rapid fast but also not crazy slow. On the last pump they hold it down.

Open the valve and you'll see fluid rush out along with air bubbles. (Assuming you have a clear hose attached to the bleeder valve.)

Close valve. *This step and the previous step are done fairly quickly

Go back to step 1 with the person pumping again.

Then repeat as needed.

You are done when no more air bubbles are present either in the drain tube nor bubbling from up top in the reservoir. The pedal should be nice and firm once complete.

***make certain while draining you do not let your upper reservoir get low. That will suck air and defeat the purpose and you'll need to restart.

 

@FirstGenVol

Top of reservoir

Put a small 2x4 or similar behind the brake pedal so that it can go down about 3/4 but not all the way. This protects your master cylinder from getting damaged.

Get under truck with the bottle/tube contraption and wrench. I prefer to use the box end.

Yell "pump" , they should pump the pedal 3 or 4 times and hold it down, then they yell "ok". They should keep steady pressure on the pedal, it will drop when you open valve on next step.

You crack open the bleed valve and watch fluid, you will notice when pressure relieves. Close valve and go back to yelling "pump"

Do this until fluid is clean AND free of bubbles. If your tube is not tight enough it can have bubbles that aren't from your brake line.

Chech around for proper order. I go:
Rear passenger
Rear driver
Proportion valve
Front passenger
Front driver
Repeat if needed.

 

Yep, what @Darkness said!

When the person is pumping they are building pressure to push fluid through. When you open the valve you are releasing the pressure and allowing the fluid to rush out, which pushes out old fluid and air bubbles!

 

I definitely wasn't aware I needed to include this. Appreciate the tips guys.

 

No lift ever until last fall when the front end was rebuilt by a shop with BillyBob 5100 shocks set at one (1) notch up from stock height. Maybe have an 1/2” rise, but it seriously seems like the same height as prior. I didn’t measure prior to the rebuild so who knows? Only did it to offset the coils age and wear.

Recall LBJ was done in 2005 or 2006? The recalled ones performed well until the new ones were just installed. No problems.

Off-roading mucho in the early years in sand/peet with Baja Style going fast and small whoops. Took it easy on her from 2014 until last year as she was real tired suspension wise.

Tow and haul fairly regularly. Haul more than tow.

I posted the pic for proof, as many do not believe 285/75/r16 don’t rub as little as the pic proves.

Michelins 2007-present (superb)
Dunflop 2005-2007 (crap)
BFG 2003-2005 (crap)
OEM size Stock originals lasted 15k miles (crap)

 

I had problems from my own stupidity. Once the rears were adjusted right the pedal came back. I did have a ton of air in there. It's a weirdly satisfying feeling seeing all those air bubbles coming out. I put a full 32oz thru mine.

 

Adjusting that star adjuster is the key I think. My drums were a snug fit over the shoes, but the groove inside is deeper than the rim from all these years braking. The shoe has created an ever so slight rut inside the drum that the adjuster can close that gap (edit *after the drum goes back on) making a huge difference at the pedal. I’m my case 5 clicks per side total on the adjuster. I did three at first and drove it, then did two more and felt like that was very good.

My pedal feels like stepping on a raw potatoe now. Pretty firm.

Action is: Step on pedal and braking begins about 1/4” down (see pedal free play below). Between the 1/4” and 1” range is where most of my slow down braking occurs. At about an 1”-1 3/4” is full stop potatotes (different than the chart below per min. clearance of 3.7”?).

 

I did not realize this impacted the 2002's..? I've not seen any records on my truck indicating recall work was done on this. I wonder if it's still open.

 

Throw your VIN in here to find out... https://www.toyota.com/recall

 

Yep. I just checked that and it shows no open recalls. I went back through all the old service records on Toyota's website and it's not listed. The oldest record was from 08 so I'm wondering if it was done before that and the online records just don't go back that far.

 

Yep it impacted the 2002. Recall came out in 05’.

You should do yours when you do your other work.

 

I read somewhere (of course can't find it now) that records started sometimes in the 2000s...so it may just be missed...also, not all dealers participate.

http://toyota.custhelp.com/app/answ...alership-service-record-not-on-toyota-owners?

I would call your local dealer and give them your VIN, they will be able to tell you for sure if you have any open recalls.

 

It's on the list but it may have to wait a little while. My UCA's are arriving today so I'm hoping to install everything this weekend. When you did your front suspension rebuild what all did you have replaced? LBJ's, UBJ's, tire rod(ends?). Anything else? I've seen others mention doing work on their steering rack too but I'm not sure what they did.

 

Here it is...

http://toyota.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/7560/related/1


Why is my service history from past years not shown on Toyota Owners?
For most dealerships, records go back to early 2005. However, in certain areas, we did not begin storing dealership repair order information until late 2007. These areas include North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana, Arkansas, Oklahoma and Texas. Some dealerships may not participate, and occasionally records are not transferred. In these instances, please contact your Toyota dealership and request to have your records printed.

 

That would make sense. From what I've gathered my truck spent most of its life in Western NC. I've also noticed that on some of the records the dealership is blank. Thanks for this info.

 

Service day on both vehicles with suck and fill brake DOT3. Power Steering and changed cabin airfilter in the Mz PMH car. Switched on to the 02’ and finished off the last remaining Fluid Film inventory on the rear bed under side and all the associated cross member framing.

Done with Fluid Film. Its good, but doesn’t have the longevity of grease on the chasis. The truck bed is painted and was a good place to use up the rest of the product.

Put a second coat of Ceramic High Heat on the exhaust system to finsh off that product as well. The job looks good and holding well from last month.

 

Man you have mucho work ahead of you.

Lets see if I can remember.

2 OEM LCA
2 New CV joints (brand?)
2 OEM Ball Joints
New Rotors/Pads
4 BillyJean 5100
All New Cam Bolts
New Links/Bushings to existing OEM Front Sway Bar
High Dolla Alignment

OEM Tie Rods/UCA were good.
Steering Rack/Bushings are still in good shape.

 

Removed my heater fan motor and put some oil on the felt pads so it would stop making a chirping noise.

Installed some new rain x wiper blades.

 

I’ve done that with nearly every Toyota I’ve ever owned.

 

Pretended I was Bubbles for the day. Picked up some shopping carts for our annual charity sale.

 

Way of the road, Bubs.

 

I got a late start but 1 of the rear shocks is in. I would be moving faster but I'm taking the time to sand some rust and paint the shock mounts. Unfortunately my torque wrench won't fit in order to properly torque the top nut. The only 19mm socket I have is too tall. Will have to properly torque later.




After:

 

Ok, I did what everyone told me not to, I threw some 35x12.5r17 Toyo open country MTs on my 2 inch leveled tundyy.

Rubs a lil but

Now I just need to go hit some mud to cover the chrommies back up

 

Yeeehawww!!!

How bad a rub? Like thunder in the cab?